It was in 1834 that the Castle Company introduced a service from the Ayrshire coast to the Island of Arran. The veteran Inverary Castle sailed to Brodick from Troon where she connected with the horse-drawn railway from Kilmarnock. Ardrossan was included as a call in 1834 and the following year, Ardrossan was the Ayrshire terminus with a connecting coach from Kilmarnock. Although the Inverary Castle was described as extensively improved in both speed and comfort, she had been advertised for sale in the Spring, and was disposed of the following year when M‘Kellar’s Hero appeared on the route.
The hull of the Hero was built by William Denny in Dumbarton in 1832 and her machinery was produced by Robert Napier. Duncan M‘Kellar added a larger and more successful vessel, the Victor, in 1836 so that Hero was available for the Arran service.
Plan of the Glasgow, Paisley, Ardrossan and Ayr Railway
Anticipation of the coming of the Ardrossan Railway prompted the construction of a new purpose-built steamer, Isle of Arran, to sail from Ardrossan at the end of 1838, while the Hero was sold to the Dumbarton Company. The Isle of Arran came from the yard of John Wood with machinery from Robert Napier and she maintained the service for many years under the banner of the Arran Steam Vessel Co., and after 1846, the Isle of Arran Shipping Co., of Lamlash. The Isle of Arran was of wooden flush-decked design, slightly less than 100 feet long with her passenger accommodation below main deck level. She had a single funnel aft of the paddle box and a mast rigged to carry sail and took anything between one and a half and two hours on the passage to Arran.
The steamer had provided an important connection with the Glasgow, Kilmarnock and Ayr Railway so that through traffic from Paisley and Glasgow was accommodated and an important consideration.
Glasgow Herald, May 3, 1844
There were earlier excursions by steamboat to Arran directly from Glasgow, but until the early 1820s, there was no reliably scheduled service. For example, the Neptune under Captain Thomas Kirkwood sailed by way of Rothesay to Brodick and Lamlash Bays on the Isle of Arran on Fair Saturday, July 22, 1820 but resumed her normal sailings to Rothesay and Inveraray thereafter.
Inveraray Castle
On June 23 1821, the Inverary Castle was advertised to sail at seven o’clock in the morning for the Island of Arran, calling at Port Glasgow, Greenock, Gourock, Rothesay, Brodick, and Lamlash, and returning on Monday. This was repeated each week through July. The Largs and Millport steamer Albion made similar sailings.
“On Saturday forenoon, a respectable party sailed with the Albion steam boat, on a voyage of pleasure to Arran. A Clergyman happened to be among the number, and he was politely requested by the Captain and passengers to preach them a sermon on the Sunday. With this request he cheerfully complied, and accordingly on the Sunday, at 12 o’clock, the Captain and crew, along with the passengers and a number of villagers, assembled on a fine green under the shade of some tall spreading trees near Brodick Inn, where they heard an excellent discourse. When the service was ended, two of the passengers went round the hearers with their hats, and considering the numbers, gathered a liberal collection. An elder was sent for, and consulted concerning the most proper objects of charity; and the money was given to the most deserving.”—Glasgow Herald, July 6 1821
The Largs and Millport steamers, Albion and Largs sailed on to Arran with weekly frequency during the tourist season but the island remained fairly difficult to access as visitors were not encouraged and opportunities for feuing were limited.
“Largs (Captain Kay) will sail from the Broomielaw on Saturday next for Greenock, Gourock, Innerkip, Largs, and Millport, and return on Monday. Hours of sailing to be seen on the boards.
“The proprietors beg leave to announce, that this boat has been built, more with the view of accommodating the public frequenting the coast, than of any personal emolument to themselves. She has been built in the most substantial manner, and her interior subdivisions, for elegance and accommodation, as well as her rate of sailing, will be found superior to any boat of her description on the river. She will ply on the above station as far as Ardrossan, and occasionally to Arran, during the season. They have engaged steady and experienced hands for navigating the vessel, and she will be regularly supplied with liquors and provisions of the very best quality.
“They have also made arrangements by which every facility and accommodation will be received by the Albion steam boat to those who sail on the Largs, which may be learned by applying to the Captain on board; or to William White, confectioner, Hutcheson Street.”—Glasgow Herald, 6 June, 1822
The Albion and Largs carried on their seasonal visits to the east Arran ports until the early 1830s when Duncan M‘Kellar arrived on the scene with the Hero in 1832. The addition of the Victor in 1836 and Warrior in 1839 consolidated his position on the Largs, Millport and Arran route until challenged in 1842 by the Lady Brisbane and in subsequent years the Lady Kelburne and the ill-fated Countess of Eglinton. These ran in a spirited opposition for a few years under the ownership of William Young and others but after the loss of the Countess of Eglinton in 1846, the two fleets came to an agreement and shared the business.
Glasgow Herald, May 6, 1844
The addition of the Toward Castle to the Castle fleet comprising the Rothesay Castle and Inverary Castle, in May 1822 allowed three sailings to Inverary each week and sailings to Rothesay on other days. There was also a weekly sailing to Rothesay, Brodick and Lamlash on the Isle of Arran on Saturdays during the season, returning on Monday morning.
“The Toward Castle will sail on Saturday the 31st instant, for Brodick and Lamlash, Isle of Arran, and return to Glasgow on Monday.”—Glasgow, 24th May, 1823.
“The Inverary Castle, Captain Thomson, from the Broomielaw to Brodick and Lamlash on Saturday morning the 19th July at eleven o’clock. She will leave Arran on Sunday evening for Rothsay, and return to Glasgow on Monday.”—Glasgow 5th June, 1823
“The Toward Castle, Captain M‘Coll; will sail from the Broomielaw for Brodick, (Island of Arran) on Wednesday the 10th May, at one o’clock afternoon, (calling at the usual places), and will leave Brodick on Thursday at 7 o’clock for Glasgow. Continuing through season.”—Glasgow, 6 May, 1826.
The following year, Castle sailings to Brodick and Lamlash were increased to Tuesday, returning Wednesday, Thursday, returning Friday, and Saturday, returning Monday. Castle Company steamers sailed from the Broomielaw to Arran at least twice a week during the season for the remainder of the decade and into the 1830s. In winter time, the mail was carried by a sailing packet from Troon or Ardrossan until the Inverary Castle took up the service in 1834 as mentioned above.
The Castle Company continued to sail to Arran by way of Rothesay through the 1840s and provided that service when brought into the fold of the Messrs Burns in 1846.
Greenock Advertiser, June 3, 1856
Glasgow Morning Journal, September 6, 1858
With the break-up of the Messrs Burns Clyde fleet, a number of others served on the station including the Cardiff Castle and the Spunkie, but the M‘Kellar steamers, sailing by Largs and Millport, especially the new Jupiter and Juno, secured the bulk of the traffic from the Broomielaw.
Glasgow Morning Journal, July 20, 1858
Glasgow Morning Journal, August 13, 1858
The powerful two-funneled steamers Jupiter and Juno were products of the yard of Messrs Tod & M‘Gregor in 1856 and 1860 respectively, reflecting the continued popularity of the direct sailings from Glasgow. They were of very similar dimensions.
Juno
The demise of the M‘Kellar fleet after their best steamboats, Jupiter and Juno, were sold across the Atlantic to the Confederates for running the Union blockade in May 1863 and imminent opening of the Wemyss Bay Railway caused further changes and the Largs of the Wemyss Bay Co. served the Island.
Glasgow Morning Journal, May 8, 1865
Contraction of the Wemyss Bay Co. left an opportunity for Graham Brymner in providing service to Largs and Millport with the Elaine and Lancelot, extending to Arran, and to Rothesay and Arran by the Guinevere.
Lancelot at the Broomielaw with Marquis of Bute downriver (Washington Wilson)
Meanwhile on the station between Ardrossan and Arran, the Isle of Arran was left almost single-handed on the trade for over twenty years. On her annual overhauls, or when she experienced and breakdown, a sailing packet was put on in her stead.
Glasgow Herald, October 7, 1844
Glasgow Herald, February 8, 1847
Glasgow Herald, June 1, 1849
In the little guide to the Watering places of the Clyde published from the Glasgow Constitutional in 1840, the author’s first impression was tempered by the scramble for accommodation.
“Arrived in Brodick Bay. How calm and clear and blue is the sea here.—There is something truly sublime in human nature too. We were deeply impressed with that idea, when we observed a big pearly tear of delight steal down the cheek of a young and amiable mother when she heard the call of her loved young ones welcoming her from the shore! The sky was nothing to this. No artist could paint the warm tear, and make it glisten, as it fell from the parent’s eye.”
“Got accommodated in the Inn, Mrs. Jamieson, by the kindness of a young gentleman who had recently been introduced by a mutual friend. Mrs. Jamieson’s is a most beautifully situated Inn. It is embowered amongst roses and vines, and fig-trees,—fig-trees in the Island of Arran!—and seldom have we seen any people more anxious or more successful in pleasing their customers. Far up behind the Inn and the woods rises Goatfell, or Gaoth-mheall, “the hill of the winds.” ”
“Last Sunday was the sacrament of Kilmory, and Captain Blaikley, of the steamer Isle of Arran, as gentlemanly a fellow as ever lived, conveyed many of the natives to the place of worship. There were some symptoms of a revival under the ministration of Mr. M‘Millan, at the Gaelic tent service, in the forenoon. Dr. M‘Naughton preached an excellent discourse, in the afternoon, in English.”
The party left the “Happy Island” on Monday morning on the Windsor Castle.
Brodick around 1860 (Banks & Co.)
Lamlash around 1860 with Jupiter
Ardrossan from the Breakwater around 1860 (Jones & Co.)
The Isle of Arran suffered a serious early-morning fire during a severe gale in February 1850. Two accounts are given here. It is notable that the workmen in the neighboring ship-yard were available at an early hour. The yard at the time was especially busy.
“Ardrossan—Fire.—On Wednesday morning, about 4 o’clock, the porters on the quay here, waiting for the arrival of the Belfast steamer, observed the Isle of Arran steamer on fire. It was blowing a very terrific gale at the time, which kept parties from coming forward to assist. Notwithstanding the exertions of those that did give their aid, Mr Shearer, shipbuilder, and others, besides those who gave the first alarm, scuttling was found necessary. The fire commenced in the boiler house and the smoke was first seen to issue from behind the funnel. The damage done is very considerable, but its extent cannot yet be ascertained, as she is under water. We understand an insurance is effected; but whether sufficient to indemnify the loss, is at present unknown. Her lying on the inner harbour and the wind north-west kept the sparks, &c., from other shipping. Three of the crew on board were roused out of their beds, and lost the principal part of their clothing. Amongst the mishaps was the destruction of a bride’s “braws,” who was to be married that day in Arran.”—GA February 8, 1850
“Ardrossan.—Isle of Arran steamer burned.—from the direction in which the wind blew, there was scarcely any sea in the harbour here, so that the vessels in the dock were quite secure from the storm. Consequently, no damage from the gale was experienced at this port. Three vessels sailed from Ardrossan on Tuesday. The steamer Fire-Fly, plying between Ardrossan and Belfast, was due at the former port on Wednesday morning at two o’clock, but at a quarter past five on Wednesday she had not arrived. If there were no disasters directly resulting from the gale, the blank was fully filled up by the almost total destruction by fire of the Isle of Arran steamer (Captain Blackley), which plies between this port and the island whose name the vessel bears. The steamer ws to have sailed on Tuesday. But this not having been carried into effect, and the boat being advertised to sail on the following (Wednesday) morning, her fires were kept on, and she was ready to start, when, about four o’clock, flames were perceived circling around the funnel, and over the top of the boilers, by some Irish labourers, who were awaiting at the harbour the arrival of the Fire-Fly from Belfast. The alarm was speedily given. By the orders of Messrs Barr and Shearer, the men engaged in their extensive ship-building yard were soon on the spot. All assistance in their power was likewise rendered by Mr Shearer Captain Blackley, Captain M‘Fie, Mr Love, Mr John Shearer, one of the fremen in the ship-building yard, and various other gentlemen. From the control that the flames had acquired over the vessel, as well as from the exceedingly rough nature of the weather, the only alternative left by which they might save the remaining part of the steamer was adopted—viz., the scuttling of the boat. This was immediately carried into effect, and the Isle of Arran sank about five o’clock. She was burned down to the water’s edge from the funnel aft. Nothing whatever was rescued from the steamer, so that no inconsiderable amount of valuable property has been sacrificed. She was the property, we believe, of a joint stock company, and partially insured. The Isle of Arran amounted in tonnage to about 80 tons.”—Ayr Advertiser in Standard February 11 1850
The steamer was raised and repaired in the ship-yard at Ardrossan. Some of the owners had decided to sell their share in the vessel, probably being content with the insurance settlement, while others invested in repairing and improving the steamer.
“Messrs Barr and Shearer having got off the brig Laurel, Captain Gilchrist, lately ashore in Glenluce bay, they have towed her into Ardrossan for repairs. Thy are commencing to repair the Isle of Arran preparatory to her resuming the station betwixt Arran and Ardrossan.”—Greenock Advertiser, April 19, 1850
Glasgow Gazette, September 7, 1850
“We, the undersigned, formerly proprietors in the steamer Isle of Arran, plying betwixt Ardrossan and Arran, hereby give notice, that we have no farther connection with that steamer, having sold our respective shares in the months of September and March last. Ardrossan, 30th September 1850., Robert Young; Rober Muir, per the heirs of Daniel and John Curdie, Sliddery, Arran; Archd. Russell; Robert Shaw.”—Glasgow Herald, October 11, 1850
In August, when the renovation of the Isle of Arran was complete, she had a new keel and upper-works, and her engines had been overhauled and improved. The following year she was lengthened by 30 feet.
Glasgow Herald, September 2, 1853
Captain Blaikney was a colourful soul and never missed an opportunity for a pleasure trip. On the arrival of the Earl and Countess of Eglinton on H.M.S. Black Eagle at Ardrossan in the first week of July 1859, he decked out the Isle of Arran with flags and “secured a full cargo of well-dressed and happy passengers” to proceed to sea to welcome and convoy the Black Eagle. Perhaps that was his last pleasure excursion in the Isle of Arran. In January of the following year, she was condemned.
“Island of Arran.—We understand the Isle of Arran steamer, which plied for so many years in connection with trains on the Glasgow and South-Western Railway, has been laid up as being unfit to continue longer on the station, and that the company to which it belonged has been dissolved, thereby leaving an important and lucrative station open for some of our enterprising steamboat owners to take up. The number of families that frequent this beautiful island during the summer and autumn months makes it a sufficient guarantee that it would be remunerative if the railway company continued the same liberal terms to any new company which they did to the old, and if a first-class steamer, fit to run between Ardrossan and Arran, a distance of 13 miles, in one hour, enabling parties to leave per express from Bridge Street station at quarter past 4, reaching Arran about 6 p.m., and returning in the same time, viz., leaving Arran at half-past 7, and reaching Glasgow at half-past 9 a.m.,—there would be secured to this route the bulk of the passengers who presently take the tedious journey of sailing via Glasgow and Greenock.”—Glasgow Herald January 10, 1860, Scottish Banner, January 14, 1860
A new steamer was ordered for the station but was not available until the middle of May.
“Launch at Cartvale.—On Wednesday afternoon, there was launched from the Iron Boat-Building Yard of Messrs Blackwood & Gordon, at Cartvale, a very handsome and finely-moulded paddle steamer, named the Earl of Arran. All being ready at the hour appointed, the vessel swept into the water with promptitude and grace, amidst the cheers of considerable crowds assembled on both sides of the river. The ceremony of christening was duly performed by Miss Jackson, daughter of John Jackson, Esq., Ardrossan. The following are the dimensions of the vessel:—length, over all, 148 feet; breadth, 18 feet 6 inches; depth, 9 feet 6 inches. She is fitted with a pair of direct-acting engines of 80 horse-power, and her guaranteed speed is fourteen miles an hour. The keel of theis vessel was laid on the 9th of March, between which date and that of her launch only forty working days have elapsed. She is destined to ply between Ardrossan and Arran, and is to be on her station by the 15th of May.”—Paisley Herald April 28 1860
In the meantime, other steamers were called in to support particular needs of the islanders when the prospect of reasonable remuneration was offered.
One occasion gives an interesting insight into conditions for travel to the Isle of Arran and can be found in the Glasgow Herald of April 26, 1860. An early fair for the sale of livestock was held at Lamlash in delightful weather for the time of year. Apparently, the Duke of Hamilton had put forward the date at which rents were due, necessitating the fair at an unusual and unfortunate time of year after an inclement winter. The livestock was not in great condition as there had been a scarcity of fodder on the island over the winter and prices were low. It was through the good graces and risk of the Largs Steamship Company that the Lady Kelburne under the command of Captain Alexander M‘Kellar was made available for connection between Ardrossan and Lamlash and on the return journey embarked about 100 head of cattle at Lamlash Quay. The steamer completed the passage in just over an hour each way.
The article went on report a rumour that the Duke of Hamilton had “issued instructions restricting the already stringent regulations allowing residents to accommodate strangers. We are sure this will be heard with regret by many a lover of the beautiful in nature. Whether or not this nobleman is aware of the effects of the edicts he issues, we know not, but, to judge from appearances, we can assure him they add but little to his popularity either on the island or elsewhere.”
Glasgow Herald, July 10, 1860
Cornwall Simeon describes a three weeks’ visit to Arran in summer in the first volume of Macmillan’s Magazine in 1860.
“We came off by the Juno, one of the fastest of the Clyde steamers, which, conveniently enough, leaves Greenock at a quarter to four p.m., four or five hours after the arrival of the 9.15. p.m. train from the Euston station, and from which, in about three hours and a half, we disembarked at Brodick. The Douglas Arms (better known as the Invercloy Inn), distant about a couple of hundred yards from the landing place, received us—a good inn, well situated, and possessing within itself most of the attributes which conduce to the comfort of the traveller or tourist. The view from it is also very fine.”
They found better fare at the inns of Corrie and Lagg but Lamlash is thus described:
“House-room being exceedingly limited, in consequence of restrictions as to building imposed by the owner of the soil, houses are crammed to a degree which it must be pleasanter to imagine than experience, and many are the shifts made to receive those who are determined, accommodation or no accommodation, to remain and “enjoy” themselves. Bathing-boxes at Lamlash are said to be considered luxuries at a shilling a night, and one roomy pigsty to be annually cleared of its legitimate occupants, whitewashed, and let out as ‘Lodgings for three people.’”
The new Earl of Arran had arrived on station in May. Initially, she sailed to Campbeltown twice a month.
Glasgow Herald, June 14, 1860
Paisley Herald, July, 14, 1860
Paisley Herald, July, 14, 1860
However, the following year, the Campbeltown connection was withdrawn.
Earl of Arran at Lamlash Quay (unknown)
The new steamer proved to be popular and reliable.
Glasgow Herald, January 3, 1861
Paisley Herald, June 9, 1861
The prospect of attracting the bulk of the Arran traffic from the steamers sailing from Glasgow and Greenock was not realized, and competition from the Jupiter and Juno was strong.
Glasgow Morning Journal, August 4, 1862
The Clyde was lashed with storms during the harvest time in 1860 and Arran was particularly hard hit. The Glasgow Herald of September 18 relates: “There is still a large number of visitors in Arran, both at Invercloy and Lamlash. In the latter place indeed, accommodation for casual visitors is still in great demand. Doubtless, to a large extent, this is owing to the superior accommodation afforded by the steamers this season to those inclined to visit this beautiful and romantic island, and to the fine weather with which the present month was ushered in. The wind, however, on the days we have mentioned, blew pretty stiffly, but the excellent boats, the Jupiter and the Juno of the Largs Company, punctually kept their time. On two days during the week, the Hero, which sails from Rothesay, did not venture further than Kilchattan Bay; and on Friday night the new steamer Earl of Arran preferred the safety of Ardrossan harbour to venturing across. On the nights of Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, the steamer Juno, the speed and sea-going qualities of which have been more than once noticed this season, held steadily on her course and arrived in Lamlash Bay within a few minutes of her regular time; and the passengers aboard appear to have enjoyed not only a feeling of security, but also that of comparative comfort, even when the storm was at its height.”
Glasgow Herald, July 14, 1863
The Hero of 1858 was at this time, 1860, owned by her builders, Messrs Wingate & Co. and was subsequently on charter to Belfast for a few years. When she returned, she was placed on the Arran route again by her new owners, the Messrs J. & G. Ferguson.
Glasgow Herald, September 5, 1866
Lack of accommodation was not the only discouragement to visitors. The lack of piers on Arran was a frequent source of comment. The quay at Lamlash allowed steamboats to dock at certain states of the tide but at Brodick and the other calling places, the tedious procedure of disembarking and embarking in small boats meant that schedules were very flexible.
Another example of the liberality of Captain Blakeney and the problems contributed by the lack of pier accommodation comes from the Ayrshire Express of July 18 1863 where an annual excursion of the shopkeepers and tradesmen of Kilwinning on the previous Wednesday is described. The day out arranged with Captain Blakeney involved a sailing from Ardrossan to Lamlash in the Earl of Arran where some could disembark, while the others circumnavigated the Isle of Arran and returned for time ashore at Lamlash; all for 2/6d including the railway from Kilwinning and three fiddlers to provide music on board. Around 130 participated. A boisterous sea left a number of the younger folks contributing “liberally to the piscatorial commissariat” but for the most part the crowd indulged in dancing tullochgorm and other sets on the deck. One or two brought their rifles on board and “kept up a skirmishing fire” on any seabirds that came within range, with great cheers when one was felled, much to the dismay of the more tender-hearted. When the Earl of Arran returned to Lamlash, “two hours were allowed on shore at Lamlash, but nearly half of that time was occupied in landing and embarking the passengers in small boats. Those who guide the destinies of Arran should as a matter of duty make a proper pier at Lamlash.”
“Brodick Fair.—The annual fair for sheep, cattle, and horses was held at Lamlash on Tuesday week. The day was showery and the weather otherwise disagreeable, but not withstanding this a large number of dealers were present from Ayr, Ardrossan and Glasgow. The steamer Venus sailed from Ayr in the morning with a large number of passengers; another trip was made made by the same boat from Ardrossan. The Earl of Arran also made special runs from Ardrossan to accommodate parties attending the fair. The supply of cattle was limited but equal to demand.”—Paisley Herald July 2 1864
“Steamer Earl of Arran.—This steamer, which plys between Ardrossan and Arran, met with an accident to her valve gearing on Thursday last, and was towed by the steamer Mariner to Ardrossan, where the damage was made good.”—GT March 4 1867
Glasgow Herald, May 23, 1868
The 11th Duke of Hamilton died in 1863 and the new Duke had plans to improve conditions on the Isle of Arran. He ordered a new steamer for the Ardrossan route and eventually made plans for erecting a pier at Brodick. The Earl of Arran continued to sail on the Clyde out of Ayr for a short while but was later sold to owners in Penzance for the Scilly Isles service where she met her ultimate fate.
“Launch.—On Friday last Messrs Blackwood & Gordon launched from their building-yard at Port Glasgow a handsome paddle steamer for the passenger traffic between Ardrossan and Arran. This steamer has been built to the order of the Duke of Hamilton for the convenience of his tenants in Arran, and the visitors who resort thither. The steamer on leaving the ways was named The Lady Mary, the ceremony of naming her being performed by Miss Birkmyre, daughter of Bailie Birkmyre, Port Glasgow. Her dimensions are—length, 173 ft.; breadth, 20 ft.; depth 8 ft. 6 in.; with oscillating engines of 110 horse-power. From her fine appearance in the water, and her engine power, it is expected that she will prove a very steady and swift steamer. A large party interested in the vessel were present at the launch, among whom were Stewart S. Robertson, Esq., Chamberlain to the Duke of Hamilton, Provost Dykes of Hamilton, and a party of ladies and gentlemen connected with the Hamilton estates.”—Oban Times June 13 1868
“Launch.—Yesterday, Messrs Blackwood & Gordon launched from their yard a handsome paddle river steamer, named by Miss Birkmyre, daughter of Bailie Birkmyre, “The Lady Mary.” The steamer is the property of His Grace the Duke of Hamilton, and is to be employed running from Ardrossan to Arran. Her dimensions are—length, 173 feet; beam, 20 feet; depth, 8 feet 6 inches. Her engines are oscillating, and of 110 horse power.”—Greenock Telegraph, June 6, 1868
Glasgow Herald, July 20, 1869
“Campbeltown.—Cattle Trade.—The steamer Lady Mary, of the Ardrossan and Arran route, last week made two trips here for a cargo of sheep and cattle, for Ayrshire. Owing to the extreme darkness of the morning on the first trip, 19 of the sheep fell over into the sea; the greater part of which were drowned; and 6 more jumped overboard on the passage.”—Greenock Telegraph, October 25, 1869
“Steamer on fire.—The Ardrossan and Arran steamer Lady Mary was discovered to be on fire about two o’clock on Monday morning, while she lay at Lamlash. The fire broke out in the engine room, and, as immediate steps were taken to suppress it, it was fortunately confined to that part of the steamer, but this was not accomplished without some difficulty. The fore and aft portions of the engine room, however, have been damaged, though not so badly as to prevent the steamer making her usual run to Ardrossan yesterday. The origin of the fire is unknown, as the captain is certain all the fires were out on Sunday night.”—Glasgow Herald, February 2 1869
The Hamilton Advertiser of September 4, 1869, relates that the Duke of Hamilton entertained the workmen employed on the Hamilton Estates together with their friends and relatives on a trip to Brodick Castle. Around 300 assembled at Hamilton Station where they were met by Mr S. S. Robertson, the Duke’s Chamberlain, and, accompanied by a military band, boarded a special train for Ardrossan where the company boarded the Lady Mary for the trip to Brodick. The band led a procession to the lawn in front of Brodick Castle where cheers, three times three, were called for their master. Four hours were spent in merriment and dancing on the croquet ground in front of the Brodick Hotel, before the company returned in the steamer and their special train.
The following photographs are early views of Arran, giving some indications of the state of island in the mid to late 1860s and into the 1870s.
Lochranza around 1864 (Annan)
Lochranza around 1870 (Becket)
Glen Sannox around 1864 (Annan)
Brodick Quay around 1868 (Annan)
Douglas Hotel, Brodick, around 1870 (Beckett)
Douglas Hotel, Invercloy, around 1870 (Becket)
Goat Fell from the lawns of the Douglas Hotel around 1870 (Beckett)
Invercloy around 1870 (Beckett)
Lamlash (Annan)
Lamlash from the south (Beckett)
Sheep for the ferry at Lamlash (Becket)
Lamlash from the pier (Beckett)
Lamlash from the Pier around 1870 (Becket)
Cottage near Lamlash (Becket)
Whiting Bay (Becket)
Whiting Bay Hotel
“New Arran Steamer.—We understand that a new steamer will, on and after the 1st of June next, take the place of the Lady Mary. The new steamer, which is to be named Heather Bell, is being built by Messrs Blackwood & Gordon, of Port Glasgow, and is expected to make the passage in even less time than that taken by the Lady Mary which, we believe, has been sold to Glasgow Company, and is to ply between Glasgow and Arran.—Ardrossan Herald.”—Greenock Telegraph, May 1, 1871
The Lady Mary had fallen short of expectations and the new steamer was expected to speed up the connection with Ardrossan. The Duke also set about remedying the problem of a pier at Brodick and a the pier into suitably deep water was constructed on the south side of Brodick Bay. It was opened for traffic on June 17, 1872.
“Steamer Heather Bell.—This paddle steamer, built recently by Messrs Blackwood and Gordon for the Duke of Hamilton, has, with the major portion of her machinery on board, been removed from the builder’s dock to the East Harbour, where her fitting out is being completed. The Heather Bell takes her station between Ardrossan and Arran on 1st June next in lieu of the Lady Mary, which has been sold to a Glasgow firm, and is to run between that port and Arran.”—Greenock Telegraph, May 26 1871
“Steamer Lady Mary.—This steamer, formerly on the Ardrossan and Arran route, proceeded this morning on her first trip to Kirn, Largs, Lamlash, &c. The station long occupied by the Lady Mary is presently taken by the Heather Bell, built recently by Messrs Blackwood & Gordon, Port-Glasgow, for the Duke of Hamilton.”—Greenock Telegraph, July 14 1871
“Mishap to Steamer.—Yesterday afternoon the Heather Bell, steamer which runs between Ardrossan and Arran, was unable to proceed after leaving Lamlash. The passengers, &c., of the steamer were placed on board the Lancelot, and conveyed to Greenock.”—Greenock Telegraph, October 3, 1871
“The New Pier.—The handsome new pier at Invercloy in two months hence will be in such a state of completion as to enable steamers to touch at it at all times of the tide. It is a very substantial structure of iron, and will prove a benefit alike to visitors and islanders. Already numbers have visited the island in search of houses for the summer months, and notwithstanding the wetness of the weather, the better class of houses in Brodick are already mostly let.”—Glasgow Herald, March 14, 1872
The Heather Bell was prone to breaking down and her performance disappointed her owners. Frequent references to “trial trips” and claims of increased speed indicated the problems that were encountered.
Glasgow Herald, April 2, 1872
“Arran steamer Heather Bell.—This fine steamer, which has for sometime past, been receiving an overhaul by her builders, Messrs Blackwood & Gordon, Port Glasgow, proceeded on a preliminary trip yesterday, previous to resuming her station between Ardrossan and Arran. The vessel’s machinery has undergone considerable alteration and improvement since last year. Yesterday the “Lights” were run with and against the tide, when an average speed of upwards of 19 miles an hour was obtained. This result will be considered very gratifying. The Heather Bell is still under the command of Captain Brown.”—Glasgow Herald, June 14, 1872
“Arran.—The fine steamer Heather Bell, belonging to the Duke of Hamilton, returned to her station yesterday, after her refit. On Monday first, the elegant new iron pier, which has been erected by his Grace at Brodick, and of which we lately gave a description, will be opened for traffic, and must prove a most valuable acquisition to the island.”—Glasgow Herald, June 15, 1872.
Heather Bell arrives at the new pier at Brodick (Beckett)
Heather Bell leaving Brodick (Valentine)
“The New Pier at Brodick.—On Monday the 17th inst., the new pier, which has been for some time past in course of construction for his Grace the Duke of Hamilton and Brandon, &c., was opened for traffic at this beautiful and much-frequented watering-place. The pier, which is an iron structure of very elegant design, occupies a site a little to the south of the old, rough stone jetty, which up to the present time has done duty as a landing-place for passengers by ferry from the various steamers on the Arran route. The present structure, which has been designed by Mr Mortimer Evans, C.E., F.G.S., of this city, and the erection of which has been carried out under his superintendence, extends into the sea for a distance of about 170 feet, and gives a depth of water at low tide of about 12 feet. The gangway, which is 15 feet in width, is supported for a distance of about 140 feet on a series of elegant iron arches, terminating in a T-shaped pierhead, 90 feet long and about 25 feet wide. The piles of the whole structure are of malleable iron, some of which are let into the solid rock, and wedged up from below, whilst the remainder at sunk for some considerable distance into the sand and gravel. These latter have large cast iron disks or shoes affixed to the lower end, and have been made to penetrate to the sea bottom by a curious adaptation of hydraulic power. The whole is stayed throughout by malleable iron struts of a peculiar form, and cross-braced with tie bars in all directions. The footway is protected by a light malleable iron girder, giving additional strength, and the railing at the pierhead consists of neat and comfortable lounge seats, running the whole length on each side. Besides these seats upon the pier itself, we understand that a commodious waiting room, of which the designs are in course of preparation, is shortly to be built in a convenient position on shore. This will be a source of great comfort to visitors overtaken by the sudden rain and squalls which so frequently happen on the island, and will supply a want long felt by visitors.
“There are one or two peculiarities in the construction of this pile that may be worth mentioning. One is, the very extensive use of malleable iron in a structure so much exposed to the action of sea water. Another is the saving of expense that has been effected by using the piles of old railway material—the piles themselves being actually constructed of disused rails, over which locomotives and trains have passed for years. The rails, placed back to back, are bolted together, and the piles thus formed.
“The chief novelty, however, to which our attention has been drawn is the use made of thick boiler plate in lieu of wood, which is the ordinary material in the formation of the fender piles; and as it is here that the chief wear and tear of a pier occurs, we shall be glad to learn that this apparently bold innovation in pier construction has been the result of sound consideration and scientific principle. There are many who have hitherto held the opinion that nothing but a soft, yielding material can with success be applied to fend off such blows as are at times given by steamers in rough weather, and that the use of so hard a material as iron is utterly impracticable. In the present instance, however, this opinion appears to be negatived, for the whole structure being designed elastic, the fenders yield easily to pressure, and as easily recover when the pressure is removed. The whole action, indeed, appears very similar to that of an ordinary metal railway buffer. If eventually successful, a great saving of wear and tear must result.
“Corrosive action has, we understand, been overcome by an electrical arrangement, causing the whole submerged ironwork to assume an electro-negative condition; and in this case it will be interesting to ascertain if increased protection may not be caused by the deposit on the ironwork of the various salts of the sea water as a result of electrolytic action.
“The whole works have been constructed by Messrs John Stewart & Son, of Irvine, the contractors, who have carried out the designs of the engineer in a most satisfactory manner. The pier has been tastefully painted and decorated, and the people of Brodick and the island generally may be congratulated on the completion of a work which, while being an ornament to the shore, is calculated to be of so much use to all frequenting the island.”—Glasgow Herald, June 27, 1872
Heather Bell at Brodick Pier (Valentine)
“Port Glasgow.—Trial Trip.—For some time past the steamer Heather Bell has been at Port Glasgow undergoing repairs by Messrs Blackwood & Gordon. These have now been completed, and, previous to resuming her station between Ardrossan and Arran on Friday, she made a trial trip yesterday. The result was very satisfactory. The engines worked smoothly, and a speed of 18 miles an hour was attained.”—Glasgow Herald, Dec 17, 1872
Eventually, his Grace lost patience with the enterprise and contracted with Captain William Buchanan to run his steamer Rothesay Castle in connection with the railway at Ardrossan.
“The Ardrossan route to Arran.—We understand that the steamer Heather Bell, belonging to his Grace the Duke of Hamilton, is soon to be withdrawn from the Ardrossan and Arran route, and that arrangements have been completed with Captain Wm. Buchanan for having his fine steamer Rothesay Castle placed permanently on the station. The Rothesay Castle will commence to ply about the middle of January.”—Glasgow Herald, Dec 19, 1873
Captain Buchanan had two steamboats, the Eagle and the Rothesay Castle, and had employed both on the Rothesay route. The opportunity to take over the Ardrossan to Arran service was one that was difficult to refuse.
Glasgow Herald, March 30, 1876
In 1876, the Eagle had her engine removed and replaced with more appropriate machinery by Messrs Wm. King & Co. Since the steamer had been built, the engine was always considered too powerful for the hull and over the years lengthening and other modifications had been tried to improve matter. The Eagle appeared with a single funnel and much improved performance, continuing on the Rothesay station where she was a favourite.
“On Saturday, the steamer Eagle, after having received an extensive overhaul, and undergone many important alterations and improvements, proceeded down the river on a preliminary trial. The external appearance of this fine steamer has been greatly changed for the better.”—Glasgow Herald, March 27, 1876
Glasgow Herald, August 8, 1872
The stalwart of sailings from Glasgow to Arran was the Guinevere, built for Graham Brymner & Co. by Messrs Robert Duncan & Co., Port Glasgow in 1869.
Guinevere at the Broomielaw in the later 1870s (Washington Wilson)
Glen Rosa at Brodick Pier around 1880 (Valentine)
Close-up of Glen Rosa (Valentine)
Hugh Keith purchased Guinevere in 1876 and continued to run her to Arran by way of Rothesay and Kilchattan Bay. In 1878, she found a rival in the Glen Rosa, built by Messrs Caird & Co., Greenock for Shearer Brothers of Gourock. At 206 feet long and 20 feet in breadth, she was of the raised quarter-deck design. She had an inauspicious start, breaking down on her initial trip to Arran but recovered on the day after and became a popular steamer.
Glasgow Herald, August 26, 1879
Glasgow Herald of July 31, 1877, records the proceedings of the River Bailie Court where Peter M‘Dermid, master of the Glen Rosa and John Reid, master of the Guinevere found themselves in the dock for reckless management of their vessels causing a collision on Saturday July 21, racing for Kilchattan Bay pier on Bute on their return from Lamlash. The Glen Rosa, the faster steamer was attempting to pass the Guinevere but was too close and the Guinevere failed to let the Glen Rosa pass. Part of the issue concerned a horse and carriage on board the Guinevere that was not properly secured and the deckhand who was unable to make the carriage secure got the assistance of the man at the wheel and replaced him for a short period so that Guinevere was off her usual course and was heading over to the Cumbrae light rather the Garrochhead. The Bailie decided it was the fault of the Guinevere in changing back to her regular course that caused the collision and the master was fined £5 while the case against the master of Glen Rosa was found not proven.
For a time both steamers competed head to head with fare reductions to attract custom, but after the appearance of the Ivanhoe in 1880 an agreement was reached whereby the steamers alternated on the route and on the other days ran through the Kyles of Bute to Skipness and Lochranza.
Glasgow Herald, August 10, 1880
The Skipness experiment was not a success and could not continue. The Glen Rosa was sold to owners in the south of England where she had a successful career.
The Wemyss Bay Co. had at this time a very fast steamer, Sheila, built by Messrs Caird & Co. and almost identical to the Glen Rosa. She was also placed on the Arran route, providing a railway connection and strong opposition.
Glasgow Herald, August 26, 1879
Glasgow Herald, August 10, 1880
In 1878, a new hull was commissioned for the powerful machinery removed from the Eagle. Launched at Paisley by Messrs M‘Intyre & Co., the Brodick Castle was 208 feet long and 22 feet in breadth and was specifically designed for the Ardrossan to Arran route with a large forecastle and a small saloon aft. She was never considered a beauty but served the station well.
Brodick Castle leaving Ardrossan around 1880
Brodick Castle standing off Lamlash Quay around 1880
Brodick Castle at Brodick Pier around 1880 (Valentine)
Brodick Castle leaving Brodick around 1880 (Valentine)
“Accident to the Arran Steamer.—Yesterday morning as the new steamer Brodick Castle was crossing from Brodick to Ardrossan, and nearing the Ayrshire coast, one of the floats of the starboard paddle became loose, and striking against the one next it damaged it also. Captain Buchanan at once had the engines stopped, and under his superintendence the damaged floats were in somewhat difficult circumstances removed. With the exception of a slight hurt to the hand of one of the crew nothing more serious than a delay of about three-quarters of an hour occurred.”—Glasgow Herald, June 25, 1878
Glasgow Herald, August 10, 1880
Details of the introduction of Ivanhoe as a teetotal steamer can be found in the April, 2015 contribution.
Brodick Castle at the new Lamlash pier around 1884 (Washington Wilson)
Lamlash acquired a pier in 1884 and the final picture shows Brodick Castle at the new pier around this time. It is notable that she is sailing without a mast. In 1887, she was sold to owners on the south coast of England.