The village of Fairlie, just south of Largs, lies in the shelter of the Cumbraes and was long a summer resort of wealthy Glasgow merchants and lawyers who built villas on the hills behind the row of fishermen’s cottages that fronted the beach. The feudal land-owner was the Earl of Glasgow whose Kelburn Castle is the major estate in the district. Fairlie was a ferry call by the Millport and Ayr steamboats, but traffic was never sufficient to merit the construction of a pier until the Glasgow and South Western Railway planned a branch-line to Largs.
Kelburn Castle
Apart from fishing, boat building by the Fife family began at Fairlie at the beginning of the nineteenth century. The boatyard produced fishing boats and small trading sloops and smacks, and, for more wealthy clients, yachts and cutters. In 1814, an early steamboat, Industry, came from the yard of John & William Fife, and she was destined to have a long life until her remnants decayed in Bowling Harbour in the 1870s.
Industry around 1870
Regular calls at the ferry at Fairlie were advertised for the Millport steamers of Messrs Gilles & Campbell, sailing out of Wemyss Bay, in conjunction with the Wemyss Bay Railway.
“Note.—Passengers by 8.40 a.m. train from Glasgow arrive in Rothesay in time for Mountaineer.
“Wemyss Bay Railway and Steamers.—trains leave Glasgow, with steamers to Rothesay, at 8.40 and 10.30 a.m., 2.40 and 4.10 p.m. At 10.30 a.m. and 4.10 p.m. call at Innellan. Steamers leave Rothesay at 7.50 and 10.50 a.m., 2.55 and 4.25 p.m. Trains leave Glasgow, with steaer to Largs and, Fairlie, and Millport, at 10.30 a.m. and 2.40 p.m. Connection on Mondays with 8.40 a.m. train. Steamers leave Millport, calling at Fairlie and Largs, at 7.30 a.m. and 2.45 p.m. On Mondays, from Millport at 10.35 a.m.”—Glasgow Herald, January 11, 1871
The ferry quay, used latterly by the boat-hirer knox
Competition for the Millport traffic from the rival Glasgow and South Western Railway was first voiced in 1875.
“Glasgow and South-Western Railway.—This company apply for power to make a new railway and pier at Fairlie, and to abandon the authorised railway there; to empower the company to complete the St. Enoch Station and the branch railway No.6, authorized by the Union Act, 1864; to contribute the whole or part of the further capital to be raised by the City Union Company for the purpose; and to authorize agreements between the two companies with reference to the completion of the station and the erection of general offices and a hotel.”—Glasgow Herald, November 30, 1875
The shareholders approved the allocation of funds for the construction of the station and pier on February 3 of the following year.
Progress was made on the line, and by early 1880, it had reached the southern end of the village. However, some difficult construction including a tunnel to the site of the pier lay ahead of the contractors. The extension to Largs also presented challenges as the line ran along the fore-shore.
“Opening of the Fairlie railway line.—The new railway which has been constructed between West Kilbride and Fairlie is now so far completed that it will be opened for traffic to-morrow. The trains in connection with the branch will leave St. Enoch Station, commencing at half-past eight in the morning. The line is a continuation of the one which was formed some two or three years ago between Ardrossan and West Kilbride, and when once the tunnel, at present being made near Fairlie, is finished the trains will be run into the village. In the meantime a temporary station has been erected. A pier is to be constructed at the Fairlie end of the tunnel, where steamers will call and receive passengers.”—Glasgow Evening Citizen, May 31, 1880
At the end of 1881, there was a dispute between Messrs Gilles & Campbell that ran the steamboat service out of Wemyss Bay and the Wemyss Bay Railway Company over the share of through revenues for the steamers. Traffic had increased to the point where the Railway Company wanted to remove the subsidy they had previously offered, and as a result, the steamboat company withdrew its steamers on December 31. The residents of Millport were most affected and were unhappy. Captain Buchanan came to the rescue with a bare bones service by the Brodick Castle to Ardrossan in the morning, and an afternoon sailing, but as the dispute continued to the end of February, frustrations grew.
“Millport and the Wemyss Bay line.—Millport, February 25, 1882. Sir,—In your paper of Friday last I observe letters from the Caledonian and Wemyss Bay Railways concerning the interruption of traffic to and from the coast by these railways. The Caledonian blames the Wemyss Bay, and the Wemyss Bay throws the blame on the Steamboat Company. But I think the people of Rothesay, Largs, and Millport have been very shabbily treated by the Wemyss Bay and Steamboat Companies. Had it not been for the exertions of Mr Alexander Brown, of Millport, in getting the Glasgow and South-Western to put on a steamer to Millport from Ardrossan, we might have been like the inhabitants of St Kilda. The inhabitants of Millport will not soon forget the treatment they have received, on this occasion. When the Fairlie Pier is opened, which will be soon, passengers will have six or more trains to go by, and will be able to reach Glasgow or Millport in one and a-half hours. Let the Glasgow and South-Western give us a 2s 6d or 2s 9d return and the Wemyss Bay may shut up their line so far as Millport is concerned. As soon as arrangements are complete, Millport will be better off than ever it has been.—I am, &c., A Native.”—Glasgow Herald, February 27, 1882
If the above letter is to believed, the prospects for the Fairlie route were positive. However, the Wemyss Bay dispute was settled in March, and by the time Fairlie pier was opened in June, the moment was lost.
The station was opened on June 10, but the pier was not finished until three weeks later.
“Opening of Fairlie Railway station.—Fairlie Railway Station, on the Glasgow and South Western system, was opened on Saturday. Without and within the station is a complete and handsome one. Generally speaking it is a facsimilie of the one at Princes Pier, Greenock. It is replete with well-finished and designed waiting, retiring, and other rooms, as well as all other contrivances at such a place. It has a double platform 600 feet long, half of which is under a well lighted roof. The pier, which is scarcely yet ready for traffic, is a most workmanlike and powerful erection. It is shaped like a T. The shaft of it is 300 feet by 40 feet, and the cross head is 300 feet by 30 feet. Mr Smellie, of Glasgow, was the contractor for the station, and, has done his work to the satisfaction of all concerned. Mr Gray, who had charge of the temporary station at Fairlie, has been appointed to the same charge at the new one. The station and pier are a little to the north of Mr Fife’s building yard.”—North British Daily Mail, June 12, 1882
The Glasgow and South-Western Company Chairman at the half-yearly meeting in September stated—“The Fairlie line and pier were completed and opened for traffic on the 1st July, and have proved to be a great convenience to the district, and during our short experience the traffic has been satisfactory. I trust that this line may he extended to Largs, and the Paisley Canal Line completed in the autumn of 1884, and I also expect that we shall have the Garvel Dock lines ready to receive traffic by the time the docks are completed.”
The Glasgow and South-Western had no powers to run steamships and relied on private owners to provide steamer connections. Millport was the obvious destination and with the recently completed Keppel pier just opposite the railway terminus promised a quick crossing.
It was left to Messrs Hill & Co., previously engaged in the goods trade, to supply a steamer for the Millport and Kilchattan Bay service. This was the Cumbrae. Built as the Victory in 1863, she had most recently been employed in the Sunday excursion trade as the Marquis of Lorne, and was now rehabilitated under her new name.
Cumbrae off Largs
Cumbrae in silhouette in Largs Bay
Cumbrae at Millport (Valentine)
The schedule called for four down departures daily from St. Enoch (8:30 a.m., 10.35 a.m., 4.30 p.m., 6.15 p.m.) with steamer connections to Millport, the latter three proceeding to Kilchattan Bay; additional sailings to Millport only on Saturdays connected with trains at 1.25 p.m. and 2.0 p.m. All trains had omnibus connections to Largs. The up-connections from Kilchattan Bay were at 7.40 a.m. (Mondays excepted), 3.35 p.m. (Saturdays excepted), and 6.20 p.m., with an additional early sailing on Monday at 6.45 a.m. From Millport, the sailings were at 8.06 a.m., 11.25 a.m., 4.00 p.m., and 6.40 p.m. with and additional early morning departure at 7.15 on Mondays. The journey times to and from Millport varied between 90 and 100 minutes.
“Glasgow and South-Western coast fares.—Sir—In our local paper there is an advertisement flaunted in our eyes to the effect that we may enjoy a sail from Fairlie New Pier to Millport and back for 9d, and to Rothesay and back for 1s. The advertisement might have contained the additional information that the Glasgow and South-Western Railway Company would convey third class passengers to Fairlie, and back to Ayr for 3s 9d and first-class passengers for 7s 5d. Let me say, however, that 2s for third-class would secure twenty passengers for every one they get now if they would arrange for Saturday excursions. Practically the policy of this company has been to encourage holiday excursions as little as possible, as it is only on great occasions they offer any encouragement to the travelling public. Last spring, through your columns, I advocated a reduction of return fares between Glasgow and Ayr to 2s 6d. I do not know that my letter had any effect, but the fares have been reduced from 4s 6d to 3s 9d. So far good for those who must travel, but the number of pleasure seekers will not be materially Increased by this reduction of fares. Let the 2s 6d return be tried, and the directors will benefit the public, while they will reap good harvests for the shareholders. The number of summer frequenters this season is lamentably short of the number in any season during the last twelve years. Does it not occur to the railway directors that their high fares have something to do with this, and that the town of Ayr will have a day of reckoning with them for this deficiency of visitors and consequent serious loss. Let them not be surprised. therefore, if we unitedly and with one voice sing the following invocation:—
One of the Units,—Ayr, 31st July, 1882.”—North British Daily Mail, August 2, 1882
In 1883, Messrs Hill added a second steamer rehabilitated from the Sunday trade. This was the Dunoon Castle, renovated and returned to her single-funnel condition, and renamed Arran. The impact of the Fairlie route on Millport traffic through Wemyss Bay is difficult to judge, but a report in 1884 suggests that there was interest from Messrs Gilles & Campbell to take over the fleet of Messrs Hill.
Arran on an excursion to Arrochar (Adamson)
“It is reported that Captain Campbell, proprietor of the fleet of Wemyss Bay steamboats, is in negotiation for the purchase of the steamers belonging to Messrs Hill, which are at present plying between Fairlie and Millport in connection with the the Fairlie route of the South-Western Raiway.”—Ardrossan and Saltcoats Herald, August 1, 1884.
In 1885, the railway to Largs was completed. The pier and railhead at Fairlie was important for fisheries in the Clyde. The small steamers purchased the catch from the fishing boats and transported it to Fairlie where it could be sent by express train to fish markets in Glasgow and England.
Carriers for the fishing catch at fairlie pier
In 1886, the Fairlie route was augmented by the addition of the Argyll, sailing to Campbeltown. Messrs Little, her owners had started the goods trade to the west of Arran and Campbeltown from Glasgow and Greenock the previous year.
“New service, commencing 1st June. The Argyll Steamship Co., (Ld.)—Campbeltown (via Arran).—The steamer Norseman (or other steamer) will sail between Glasgow, Greenock, and Campbeltown, calling at Lochranza, Pirnmill, Blackwaterfoot (Arran), and Carradale. From Glasgow every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 12 noon; and from Campbeltown every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 11 a.m. Steamer will call at Blackwaterfoot (Arran) every Friday and Tuesday (weather permitting). Loading berth at Greenock—Customhouse Quay. For particulars, apply to the agents, James Little & Co., Excise Buildings, Greenock.”—Greenock Telegraph, May 29, 1885
The new vessel for the route, Argyll, was built by Messrs Robert Duncan & Co., Port Glasgow. She was capable of accommodating 250 passengers with dining facilities for 60 at a single sitting. She was 140 feet in length by 23 feet in the beam and her single screw could drive her at 12 knots. The connection at Fairlie was designed to attract passenger traffic.
Argyll
“Launch by Messrs Robert Duncan & Co. yesterday.—Messrs Robert Duncan & Co. launched yesterday a handsome screw steamer to the order of Messrs James Little Co., Glasgow, for the Argyll Steamship Company (Limited), Campbeltown, of the dimensions stated in our yesterday’s issue. On leaving the ways she was gracefully named the Argyll by Miss Ella Corry, of Croydon, niece of Sir James P Corry, M.P. The Argyll is to trade between Glasgow, Greenock, Arran, and Campbeltown, and has ample accommodation for cabin and steerage passangers. She has two holds for cargo, and is also fitted for the conveyance of cattle. The engines, which have been constructed by Messrs Muir & Houston, Harbour Engine Works, Glasgow, are of great power, and are expected give a high rate of speed. The Argyll will be placed on the station on the 1st of June.”—Greenock Telegraph, May 6, 1886
“Trial trip of S.S. Argyll.—This new steel screw steamer, built by Messrs Robert Duncan & Co., Port-Glasgow, for the Argyll Steamship Company. Limited (Messrs James Little & Co., agents), Glasgow, went on her trial trip yesterday. The weather, which was a little boisterous, tested the merits of the Argyll, with a most satisfactory result to all concerned. This vessel is to placed on the Campbeltown route, and will have daily connection with Glasgow via Fairlie. Her dimensions are 140 feet in length, 23 feet in breadth, and 10 feet (moulded) in depth, with 232 gross tonnage. She will accommodate about 250 first and second class passengers, for whom every comfort is provided, the dining especially, which can seat about 60 persons, being an exceedingly well appointed portion of the steamer. There is also pleasant cabin for ladies. For the carrying of cargo, the Argyll is exceptionally well constructed, possessing two holds, while there are cattle fittings on the maindeck. Messrs Muir & Houston, Glasgow, have supplied the engines, which are compound surface-condensing, the cylinders 22 inches and 44 inches in diameter, with a 30-inch stroke. The boiler is extra large, and is made to come up to a working pressure of 100 pounds per square inch. She is fitted with the steering gear of Messrs Hastie, Greenock, and with Messrs Napier Brothers’ steam capstan. The Argyll, which has been built to the highest requirements of Lloyd’s, yesterday attained a mean speed of 12½ knots, with 645 indicated horse-power. After running beyond the Cumbraes, the steamer was headed home, during which luncheon was served in the saloon by Mr John Brown, Broomielaw, Glasgow. Mr Robert Duncan, jun., occupied the chair, while Councillor Thomson (Campbeltown) and Colin Houston (of Muir & Houston) officiated as croupiers; and amongst the other gentlemen present were Messrs H.W. Little, F.L. Wrede, Greenock; John Duncan, Port-Glasgow; ex- Provost Lang, Port-Glasgow; James H. Williams; Councillor Glllon, Campbeltown; Donald Mackay, shipbuilder, Campbeltown; Messrs Dawkins and Hyndmarch, Lloyd’s-surveyors; James Paul, Campbeltown; R. L. M‘Alpine, Ardrossan; D. M‘Lean, Glasgow; D. Darroch, James Shearer (goods manager, G. & S.-W. Railway), E. Wilson, jun., R. R. Mill, Captain Baillie, harbourmaster, A.G.A. Campbell, Greenock, &c. The Chairman, in proposing “Success to the Argyll,” said that his firm had done everything to make her a good ship, there bring nothing wanting that they knew of, and he believed they would find her able to compete with anything of the kind afloat. (Applause.) In coupling the toast with the name of Councillor Thomson, representing the directors, and Mr Little as managing owner, the Chairman said that Messrs Robert Duncan & Co. had done business with them for some time, and that his grandfather had built a steamer for the Campbeltown trade 50 years ago. (Applause.) Mr Thomson, in replying, said that the Chairman might feel well justified that the Argyll would keep up the name of Duncan & Co. (Applause.) She would, he believed, prove in every way suitable for her trade, and he did not think the company could desire more than they were getting. (Hear, hear.) Mr Little also briefly responded, referring to the long and pleasant connection they had had with Messrs Robert Duncan & Co. He was quite certain that the Argyll would turn out well. Indeed, it was beyond the wit of man to conceive anything finer on the lines on which she was built. (Applause.) He stated that it was meant to ran the Argyll three times a week between Glasgow and Campbeltown, twice between Campbeltown and Fairlie, and once a week between Campbeltown and Greenock. Mr Little then proposed the toast of “The Builders and Engineers,” to which the Chairman replied for Mr Houston and himself. The steamer arrived at the Steamboat Quay before five o’clock, and afterwards went on her maiden voyage to Campbeltown, under the command of Captain M‘Allister.”—Greenock Telegrph, May 29, 1886
“Fairlie route.—Arran and Campbeltown, calling at Lochranza and Pirnmill on all runs, and at Carradale, Machrie Bay, and Blackwaterfoot as per time table. The swift new saloon steamer Argyll is intended to sail daily from Fairlie, train from St Enoch, 5.10 p.m. (except Saturdays, train 2.25 p.m.). From Campbeltown daily, 6.15 a.m. (except Mondays, 4.45 a.m.) via Fairlie. Due Glasgow, 11.36 a.m.; Mondays, 9.40 a.m. Extra excursions to Arran and Campbeltown and back, via Fairlie, Tuesdays and Thursdays. St Enoch, 8.40 a.m., leaving Campbeltown 2.45 p.m., due Glasgow 8.06 p.m. The steamer proceeds to Greenock and Glasgow, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays (leaving Berth 11, Kingston Dock, on return at 2.30 p.m.; trains to Greenock—Central, 4.00; St Enoch, 4.05 p.m.); Trains—Central, 1; St Enoch, 1.05 p.m. to Greenock. Return fares.—Rail (via Greenock or Fairlie) and steamer—Cabin, 7s 3d; Steerage, 4s 6d. Steamer only—Cabin, 5s; Steerage, 3s.—James Little & Co., 69 Buchanan Street.”—Glasgow Herald, June 7, 1886
Within a couple of years, Argyll had settled into a service from Glasgow and Greenock, with calls at Fairlie to facilitate passenger traffic.
“Fairlie route.—Arran and Campbeltown.The swift steamer Argyll will sail as under, unless prevented by unforeseen circumstances. From Kingston Dock, Glasgow, via Greenock and Fairlie. *Mon., Wed., and *Fri., at 1 p.m. Trains to Greenock—Cen., 2.40 p.m.; St En., 2.40 p.m. Train to Fairlie—St En., 4.07 p.m. *Saturdays, from Greenock only at 1 p.m. Trains to Greenock—Cen., 12 noon; St En., 12.05 p.m. Train to Fairlie—St En., 1.10 p.m.
“From Campbeltown via Fairlie and Greenock. *Mon., 4.20 a.m.; Tues 2.30 p.m.; *Thur. and Satur., 6.30 a.m. in connection with trains from Fairlie and Greenock. On Saturdays to Greenock only.
“*Calls at Machrie Bay and Blackwaterfoot on these runs and at Carradale on down runs on Wednesdays and Fridays, and on up run on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Calls at Lochranza and Pirnmill on all runs. Loading berth, No. 11 Kingston Dock (off Paisley Road).—James Little & Co., 69 Buchanan St., Glasgow.”—Glasgow Herald, July 4, 1888
In 1888, Argyll introduced a sailing onward to Stranraer from Campbeltown, returning to Glasgow leaving Stranraer the following mornings at 10.00 a.m. These were carried out on Wednesdays or Mondays. These continued in 1889 but in 1890 they appear to have been discontinued. Cheap excursion tickets to Campbeltown, Lochranza, and Pirnmill in connection with the Glasgow & South-Western were introduced in the summer of 1890. Perhaps, a last attempt to develop the passenger service. The following year she was withdrawn and replaced by an elderly paddle steamer, Herald.
The 1888 Millport schedule for the Cumbrae or Arran saw St Enoch departures at 7.00 a.m., 10.30 a.m., 4.07 p.m. and 6.07 p.m., with onward connections to Kilchattan Bay by the 10.30 a.m. and 6 07 p.m. journeys. On Saturdays, the 4.07 p.m. departure was replaced by a departure at 1.10 p.m. for Millport and one at 2.45 p.m. to Millport and Kilchattan Bay. The fastest down runs to Millport (4.07 p.m. weekdays and 1.10 p.m. Saturdays) were scheduled for 1 hr 20 min, but others could take an hour longer.
The four up runs from Millport were at 8.00 a.m. (Kilchattan Bay 7:30 a.m. except Monday), 9.40 a.m., 3.15 p.m. (Kilchattan Bay 2.45 p.m. except Saturday), and 6.0 p.m. (Kilchattan Bay 5:30 a.m. Saturday only). There was also an early morning departure from Millport at 7.00 a.m. (Kilchattan Bay 6:35 a.m.) on Monday only. Fastest journeys from Millport were 1 hour and 40 minutes by the morning express.
The advent of the Caledonian Steam Packet Company in 1889 and the new steamers it brought into service, prompted the Glasgow and South-Wester Railway Company to seek powers to acquire and run their own fleet. These powers were granted in 1891 and the Turkish Fleet of Alexander Williamson was immediately acquired. One of the newly purchased fleet, Sultana, was placed on the Fairlie, Millport and Kilchattan Bay service, replacing Cumbrae, which was withdrawn and hulked.
Under the new management, there were just three daily sailings to Millport, leaving St Enoch at 10.30 a.m., 4.07 p.m. and 5.07 p.m.; the morning and late afternoon sailings extended to Kilchattan Bay. On Saturdays the 4.07 p.m. was replaced by a fast service at 1.20 p.m. for Millport only, and a 3.00 p.m. service extended to Kilchattan Bay, while the 5.07 p.m. service was replaced by a later journey at 6.20 p.m. The daily journeys from Millport were at 8.00 a.m. (7.30 a.m. from Kilchattan Bay, Monday excepted), 9.20 a.m., 3.15 p.m. (2.45 p.m. from Kilchattan Bay, Saturday excepted), and 5.55 p.m. (5.30 p.m. from Kilchattan Bay, Monday excepted), with a fast up sailing on Monday mornings at 6.50 a.m. (6.25 a.m. from Kilchattan Bay). Travel times to and from Millport varied from 1 hour 20 minutes on the express services to 2 hours.
The new powers granted to the railway company precluded sailings to Kintyre and the west coast of Arran, and Messrs Little continued to serve those destinations from Fairlie. In 1891, Argyll was replaced by the Herald, an iron paddle steamer built in 1866 for the Campbeltown route when she competed unsuccessfully with the Campbeltown Company’s Gael. She was moved to Barrow, where she had been sailing to the Isle of Man, latterly as a luggage boat.
Herald towards of the end of the time as an Isle of Man steamer
“Fairlie Route.—Excursions from Glasgow to Campbeltown and back. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from Glasgow (St Enoch) by 8.35 a.m. train to Fairlie, thence by swift paddle steamer Herald, returning from Campbeltown at 3 p.m. in connection due Glasgow (St Enoch) at 8.09 p.m. The steamer calls on Mondays at Lochranza, Pirnmill, and Carradale, going and returning, and on Wednesdays and Fridays at Lochranza, Pirnmill, Machrie Bay, and Blackwaterfoot, going and returning.
“Passengers will have 1½ hours shore at Campbeltown, and through tickets in connection with these excursion runs may be obtained at the principal Ayrshire stations of the Glasgow and South-Western Railway Company.
“In addition to the above, the Herald will also make the following runs—From Fairlie—Mon., Wed., and Frid., at 6.30 p.m. Train from Glasgow (St Enoch) at 5.07 p.m.; Tues. and Thur. in connection with the 4.07 p.m. train; Sat. in connection with the 1.20 p.m. train from St. Enoch.—From Campbeltown—Monday at 4.45 a.m. in connection with the special express train reaching St Enoch at 9.16 a.m.; Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursays, Fridays, and Saturdays at 6 a.m., in connection with trains to Glasgow (St Enoch). For hours on calls at intermediate ports see time-tables.—James Little & Co., 69 Buchanan Street.”—Glasgow Herald, July 21, 1891
The schedule was ambitious and the Herald proved unreliable. She received negative comments from the public.
“Fairlie route from Arran.—Septermber 2, 1891—Sir,—Allow me to call attention to the carelessness of the railway officials at Fairlie Station on Monday evening last, of which I was an eye witness. On the steamer Herald’s arrival at Fairlie the passengers found the pier and the a covered way dark, and the station still darker. Although it was the end of the month, when some bustle might have been expected, not a single wall lamp was lit along the station platforms. On being remonstrated with the officials lighted two 1amps opposite the luggage vans, but no lights were placed in the waiting-rooms and conveniences. The few portable lamps of the officials were insufficient, and at last some of the passengers gave up the attempt to trace their luggage. Besides this the delay by the steamer was most vexatious. On the same evening passengers from Arran via Gourock were in Glasgow about the usual time, but these by the Fairlie route reached St Enoch’s about 11 p.m., nearly three hours late. Had this delay been exceptional it might have been overlooked, but it was simply the culmination of numerous delays during the month. If this admirable route is to be properly developed better arrangements must be made a next season. A first-class, thoroughly equipped steamer should be put on, instead of a converted luggage boat, with spliced hawsers snapping every other day, and endangering the safety of both passengers and crew.—I am, &c., An Arran Visitor.”—Glasgow Herald, September 3, 1891
The following year, 1892, the Scottish Excursion Steamer Co. Ltd., placed their recently acquired saloon steamer Victoria on the Fairlie Route to Campbeltown. Built for Messrs Gilles & Campbell in 1886 by Messrs Blackwood & Gordon, Port Glasgow, she was modern and well appointed with deck salons fore and aft.
With an 8.35 a.m. train departure from St Enoch, the Victoria sailed daily from Fairlie just after 10 a.m., calling at Lochranza, Pirnmill, Machrie Bay and Blackwaterfoot, on her way to Campbeltown where she arrived at 1:15 p.m. The return was scheduled for 2.40 p.m. for arrival at St Enoch at 7.45 p.m. On Fridays, she had an additional sailing connecting with the 5.07 p.m. train from St Enoch, arriving at Campbeltown at 9:15 p.m. with the usual calls, and returning on Saturday mornings with a 9.00 a.m. departure from Campbeltown, connecting with the train to Glasgow arriving at 3.10 p.m. She left again on Saturday afternoon in connection with the 2.10 train from St Enoch, sailing around 3.30 p.m. and arriving at Campbeltown at 6.10 p.m. There was an early Monday morning sailing from Campbeltown departing at 5.05 p.m. with the train connection at St Enoch arriving at 9.15 a.m. Outside the peak of the season, there were fewer connections.
Victoria at Campbeltown
Despite the provision of a more modern steamer, the dropping of the call at Blackwaterfoot caused some consternation among visitors who had taken summer accommodation on the west side of Arran.
“Comunication to the north and west of Arran.—Glasgow, August 18, 1892.—Sir,—The correspondence in your issue this morning opens up the question of communication to the Kilbrannan Sound side of the island. The route via Fairlie, opened some years ago by the Argyll, is the natural way for the passenger traffic, and in the beginning of this summer, when rumours of an agreement between the South-Western Railway Company and the Victoria company reached the ears of old travellers, there was great jubilation over the prospect of at last having a smart paddle-boat to convey us. How we have been disappointed. The steamer was worked in a manner that made it impossible for her to be a success on the Arran route; and now we are back again to the position of seven or eight years ago—viz., no direct communication with the Blackwaterfoot district; and from Pirnmill and Lochranza on Mondays it is a matter of getting up “in the middle of the night” that you may reach Glasgow by 9.30 a.m. No one can accuse the Campbeltown Steam Packet Company of an excess of enterprise. In all humility, and bearing in mind the unapproachableness of the autocratic managers of this concern, I venture to mention the following problems that are ever tormenting the otherwise tranquil passengers to the north of Arran by their down steamers on Saturday, viz.—why cannot the steamer on Saturday afternoon and Monday morning be run in connection with a Fairlie train, and why cannot the Friday steamer leave just a little later and connect by Fairlie? These sailings are arranged, it is supposed, to suit the Arran trade, but are no concessions to be made at present to its necessities? By going to Fairlie the Campbeltown Company, without conceding anything further, would be conferring a boon on the victims of their service to Arran, and by so doing might stave off further opposition for years. At present there is simply one unceasing moan from the people who go to this side of Arran, and it takes the form of “How long! oh, how long? Who shall deliver us!” &c. If they cannot see their way into Machrie, they can surely stretch the points indicated to quieten the discontent of the visitors to the northern portion of the island. The contrast between the services to the east and west sides is simply ludicrous.—I am, &c., “Rhu Bhan”.”—Glasgow Herald, August 20, 1892
“Glasgow , August 22, 1892. Sir,—With your kind indulgence I desire to draw attention to the steamboat service to and from the west side of Arran which is in force this month. I have been an occasional traveller there, and I am sure that I am giving expression to the feelings of many when I say that the monopoly of the Campbeltown Steamboat Company is a source of great inconvenience both in service and fares. Blackwaterfoot and Machrie Bay are beyond the pale of regular daily service, and the houses in these neighbourhoods stand empty of visitors. One leaves Pirnmill at 5.45 a.m. on a Monday morning for Wemyss Bay (why not Ardrossan?) to reach Glasgow at 8.55 a.m. Three years ago I travelled to Blacklwaterfoot and back for 4s 6d; this year I pay 6s 6d to Lochranza. The Campbeltown Company managed to protect themselves from G. and S.-W. opposition when the latter company’s Steamboat Bill was in Parliamentary Committee. They are making use of their monopoly with a vengeance! I trust the G. and S.-W. will by another year charter a steamer to serve the west side of Arran via Fairlie, the natural route, at the fares which obtained three years ago, and will invade Campbeltown itself.—I am, &c., “Fair Play”.”—Glasgow Herald, August 24, 1892
“Glasgow, August 25, 1892. Sir,—Would you kindly allow me a few words in reply to your correspondents, “Rhu Bhan” and “Fair Play” on this subject. According to “Rhu Bhan,” the Victoria has not been a success on the Arran route, simply, I suppose, because she has not been run at an hour suitable for “Rhu Bhan;” but he forgets that last year he had the Herald, and for several years before that the Argyll, both managed by an enterprising firm of Glasgow shipowners, who did everything that was possible to meet the wants and wishes of the visitors to the west side of Arran, but with unprofitable results. Apparently the Campbeltown Company do not yet feel it to be a duty imposed on them to carry passengers at such a low figure as would entail this sacrifice, and perhaps “Rhu Bhan” would remember that neither Lochranza nor yet Pirnmill is the steamers’ destination, but that the bulk of the passengers are for Campheltown; and it is reasonable to suppose they are quite as much entitled as he is to be at home before darkness sets in. I have always found the managers of this company ever ready—sometimes too ready—to do what they can to oblige their patrons.
“In closing, I would suggest that “Rhu Bhan” and “Fair Play” combine and start a steamer of their own; for the first evidently thinks he could arrange, the sailings (of course, to suit himself specially), and the second is quite an adept at giving low fares. He forgets that three years ago he only travelled steerage when he paid 4s 6d; and, further, at the end of the season that they divide their profits with their customers. As for the semi-circular tour via Fairlie to Glasgow, it is simply not in the running with the Wemyss Bay route. All that is wanted is for the Caledonian to extend the pier and double the line, so as to be able to run more express trains to and from the Central, and this would be a great advantage to passengers from Largs and Rothesay.—I am, &c. Justitia.
“P.S.—For “Fair Play’s” information I may add that the fares by the Campbeltown Company are just what they have been for years past, and that he may get even to Campbeltown and back for 4s 6d.”—Glasgow Herald, August 26, 1892
The schedule was reduced in 1893 with sailings only on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, leaving St Enoch by the 8.35 a.m. down train and returning from Campbeltown at 2.50 p.m. to arrive back in Glasgow at 7.44 p.m. On Tuesdays (via Girvan) and Thursdays (via Ayr), she cruised to Ailsa Craig. During the week she was based at Princes’s Pier, calling at Kirn, Dunoon, and Rothesay before touching at Largs (except Mondays and Fridays), Fairlie and Millport and her ultimate destinations. On Saturday afternoons, her sailing was from Bridge Wharf to Rothesay and a cruise through the Kyles of Bute.
With a fleet of newly built steamers, the Glasgow and South-Western Railway added new connections from Fairlie, to Largs and Rothesay. The Millport and Kilchattan Bay steamer was now the Marquis of Bute.
Marquis of Bute at Keppel
Victoria was withdrawn in 1894, and sold off the river, and there was no connection to the west of Arran and Campbeltown that year. The public in these poorly served areas felt the loss and complained. A series of letters to the editor of the Glasgow Herald in April, 1885, made arguments for provision of a substitute.
“Fairlie route to west side Arran and Campbeltown.—March 29, 1895.—Sir,—Can any of your correspondents inform me if there is any truth in the rumour that the above service is likely to be revived this summer? I have heard it stated that there is some prospect of a fast paddle-steamer being put on the Fairlie station this season, and I for one trust there is some foundation for the statement. This service was started several years ago, and was most efficiently conducted for a few seasons by the Argyll, a fast screw-steamer, and afterwards by the paddle-steamers Herald and Victoria; but for the past two summers no service has been run, for what reason I am at a loss to understand. Many of my friends have been summer visitors at Lochranza and other Kilbrannan route places, and before making arrangements for the forthcoming season would like to hear if the Fairlie route is really to be revived. Surely the Glasgow and South-Western Railway Company can do something.—I am, &c., Catacol.”—Glasgow Herald, April 2, 1895
“Glasgow, April 6, 1895. Sir.,—“Catacol” thinks the G. and S.-W. Company should do something. Why appeal to any railway company in the matter? The G. and S.-W. and other railway companies should confine themselves to their own legitimate business. They have, I am sorry to say, been only too successful in their endeavours to stifle private enterprise in connection with the coast passenger trade, and they appear to make little or nothing out of it after all. When the two rival shipping companies referred to by “Catacol” were running to Arran and Campbeltown a few seasons ago a fairly good service was provided, and it was a pity they could not come to some understanding whereby a rearrangement of the sailings could have been brought about in the interest of visitors to the coast and the travelling public generally. It is stated that a company is being floated to run the proposed service. This is satisfactory in so far as it justifies one in the belief that the railway companies are not to own the concern, but most of the Campbeltown people are of opinion that the two rival companies already in existence in the Campbeltown trade are resourceful enough to meet all the requirements of travellers and tourists to the district.—I am, &c., Lochranza.”—Glasgow Herald, April 9, 1895
“April 2, 1895.—Sir,—Like your corrspondent “Catacol,” I am deeply interested in ascertaining as to the steamboat service arranged for summer months, and am surprised that, notwithstanding a recent correspondence, no information is forthcoming. A reasonable service, touching the landing places south to and including Blackwaterfoot, would be greatly esteemed. I feel sure, by a large section of the public, who, like me, admire the grandeur and seclusion of these delightful parts, but cannot risk the exposure of a double journey over the “string.” Have the natives on she west side of Arran no interest or influence to exert? for, I fancy, were they in earnest about this it could be accomplished, and would be a great benefit to themselves.—Awaiting further developments, I am, &c., Seaton.”—Glasgow Herald, April 9, 1895
“April 10, 1895., Sir,—“Lochranza’s” letter in issue of 5th inst. savours more of a Campbeltonian or some one interested in private companies than a “Lochranza” person when he says “Why appeal to any railway company in the matter?” The Lochranza and west side of Arran people would be only too glad to see any company starting a service to meet their wants. At present the west side of Arran is entirely in the hands of one steamboat company, whose directors are chiefly distillers. Their principal study seems to be how they may get their grain and whisky carried at a low rate, and indeed to have their steamers sailing to meet their own requirements; but to the travelling public they give but little attention. What the west side of Arran requires is a fast steamer, leaving Campbeltown at, say, 5.30 a.m. and 3 p.m., calling at the Arran ports for Fairlie or Wemyss Bay, returning from these places in connection with the 8.30 a.m. and 4.30 or 5 p.m. train from Glasgow. To supplement this service I think arrangements could easily be made with the Caledonian or Glasgow and South-Western Companies steamers to connect us with Dunoon, Rothesay and other Clyde resorts.—I am, &c., The Real “Lochranza.”—Glasgow Herald, April 15, 1895
“April 17, 1895. Sir—The, sweet reasonableness of the proposals of “Real Lochranza” must have astonished the natives of that hamlet with its modesty. Does he really expect that passengers to and from Campbeltown, who form at least 90 per cent. of the number who travel in that direction, will travel in a steamer arriving there about 10 p.m. and leaving at 5.30 a.m. so as to suit his convenience. Neither “Real Lochranza” nor “Catacol explains why the ArgyllCompany, the Herald, and the Victoria gave up the route, especially when they were giving a service that was so efficiently conducted as to merit the approval of “Catacol.” May I be allowed to supply the omission? Mythical and problematical passengers do not pay fares, and when it comes to the payment of a coal account, owners find that it cannot be paid with mythical notes. “Real Lochranza” should realise at once that steamers are not run for the convenience of one or two individuals, but to supply the wants of the greatest number.—I am, &c., Justitia.”—Glasgow Herald, April 19, 1895
Later in 1895, it was announced that the steamer Windsor Castle had been purchased from South Coast owners and renamed Culzean Castle. She was to be placed on the Fairlie route to Campbeltown. Her story is told in another article. Subsequent sailings were taken over by Messrs John Williamson’s fleet and then by the new Turbine steamers after 1901. These too are covered elsewhere.
Culzean Castle at Fairlie
The turbine King Edward at Fairlie
Queen Alexandra of 1902 setting off for Campbeltown
The Glasgow and South-Western connection to Millport and Kilchattan Bay by the Marquis of Bute and Viceroy continued until 1904 when she was replaced by the Vulcan. Agreements with the Caledonian Steam Packet Co. to reduce the railway steamer fleets, meant that Vulcan was sold to Messrs John Williamson in 1908, and eventually, the Glen Rosa, popularly known as the “bob yacht,” was the main steamer on the route. This connection continued into the years after the first world war when the Caledonian and South-Western fleets were amalgamated under L.M.S. control. Calls at Fairlie by the Campbeltown turbines were also continued during this period, and the pier was a winter base for the Arran steamer.
Vulcan at Keppel
Fairlie Pier with the turbine Queen Alexandra of 1912 leaving, and Glen Rosa approaching from Millport
After nationalization, there were sailings to Arran and Millport by the side-loading car ferries until the opening of the Largs connection with Cumbrae slip. The pier closed in March 1972, and was badly damaged by fire shortly thereafter.
Duchess of Hamilton at Fairlie in the 1960s
A little should be added about yacht-building at Fairlie. I think this article from the Glasgow Herald of 1891 gives some idea of the spirit for progress of the Fife establishment, a spirit that continued right up to the beginning of the second world war.
Boat building on the beach at Fairlie in the 1870s (Valentine)
Fairlie from the water showing the buildings in the yard of Messrs Fife
Bay Street, Fairlie, and some of the buildings of the boatyard
Despite its general sheltered location, storms at Fairlie could be severe
“Yacht-building at Fairlie, (from our yachting correspondent.) Nowhere more completely than at Fairlie is the resurrection of yacht racing being vindicated. Not only have Messrs Fife a squadron of new racing yachts in hand, but preparations are being made for a great extension of the yacht-building business. Hitherto the firm has confined itself to the construction of wooden vessels, but has commenced the building of compesite yachts, in which the timber frames are replaced by frames of angle steel. A 40-ton rater and a 20-ton rater are being built in which the frames or ribs are alternately wood and steel, a combination which must give strength, endurance, and other qualities of advantage in a racing yacht. Both cutters have the immense lead keels which demand a construction to meet a strain unknown in yacht-building a few years ago. Steel diagonals and strops tie the yacht together in a way not required when ballast was carried inside. Indeed, the employment of outside lead has made a complete revolution in yacht-building, and Messrs Fife have accommodated themselves to the change. The plant required for the forging of steel work is in process of being completed, and besides this departure other new features will give to the Fairlie building yard quite a novel look. New arrangements for launching yachts down the flat beach are progressing, and when the improvements are completed the firm will not have to send some of their orders elsewhere from being unable to overtake them. The yachts building are all for racing, and, unlike old times, there is not a cruising yacht building. This indicates in a pointed way the direction the sport is taking.
“The 40-ton racing cutter is being built for Mr John Anthony Inglis, of Point House, Glasgow; and with Castanet, Creole, Deerhound, and the “forty” building at Fay’s for Mr A. D. Clarke, will complete the reconstruction of the famous 49-ton class. But these new forties could sail all round about the forties of fifteen years ago. With fiddle bows and long counters, they look so like each other at a little distance that their racing colours only distinguish them from each other to onlookers who are not experts. To the eye the forty building at Fairlie resembles greatly the forty building at Pointhouse; but the Fairlie cutter looks a trifle deeper forward. Neither cutter has any forefoot to speak of; and hollow bows have disappeared altogether. What the dimensions are is known only to designers nowadays, and the load water-line will be declared by the official measurer alone. Captain John Carter, who raced the late Sir Richard Sutton’s Genesta on both sides the Atlantic, will sail Mr Inglis’s yacht, and a smarter man than “Jack Carter” could not be got. The cutter will have ever 30 tons of lead in her lead keel, which means that she will be up to date in ballasting as well as modelling. The cutter is planked above with teak and below with American elm, and is about ready for her decks.
“A cutter which looks like a 20-rater, and a sister yacht to Messrs File’s famous Dragon, is building alongside. She is built with alternate frames of wood and steel, and looks to the eye a smaller replica of the 40-rater. She has a very fast and handsome look about her. Her owner is not declared as yet, and it is just possible she is the new Fairlie cutter the Americans are hoping to have at Boston in spring. But it will be a pity if so fine a cutter be lost to the 20-rater class at home.
“A 10-rater is planked up and getting finished for an owner in Wales. In build and look she is very much like other Fairlie 10-raters, and it may be certain her model is very close on Yvonne.
“Of the 2½-rater class there are no fewer than five building. These are cutters of the Bandersnatch type, with the mast stepped in the bow, with a small jib to stay the boat with. These boats are, of course, identical in model, and how the owners are to pick is not very plain, unless they have recourse to tossing for their boats. Among the owners named are Mr Patrick Inglis and Messrs Connell. With Bandersnatch and Princess Ida the class will be a very strong one, and will include the two 2½ centre boards building at Gourock, or nine cutters in all. How the racing colours in such a mob will be made out is a puzzle some new invention may unravel. The Americans fix their colours on the after leach of the mainsail a little below the gaff, and in consequence they are seen from both sides and at all times, except when there is a flat calm.
“The firm has built a very nice-looking 6-rater for a Mr Watson, intended for cruising, but quite fit to capture prizes. She has the usual amount of lead on the keel, and is nearly quite completed. Another good-looking boat belongs to the 23-foot class, and is nearly finished. She has been built to the order of Mr Adam Teacher for the Holy Loch Yacht Club. The finish of this cutter is so fine that by an ingenious device the planks require no caulking.”—Glasgow Herald, March 3, 1891
Reference is made to the “arrangements for launching yachts down the flat beach,” and these involved the construction of a floating dock into which the yacht could be placed and then floated with the rising tide into deeper waters. The launch of the Shamrock in 1908 gives a good illustration of its use.
Shamrock in the floating dock
Shamrock in the dock
Tide coming in
Getting ready to flood the dock
The Fife yard closed at the beginning of World War II, and the premises were taken over by the Royal Navy’s Anti-submarine Experimental Establishment that honed the use of sonar for submarine detection.
Fairlie Roads was a sheltered naval anchorage for this warship around 1900
“Saturday Upon the Clyde.—A Day at Fairlie,” Scots Magazine, 1825
“The Golden Years of the Clyde Steamers,” Alan J. S. Paterson, David & Charles, Newton Abbot, 1969
“Fast and Bonnie,” May Fife McCallum, John Donald, Edinburgh, 1998
“Fairlie’s Secret War,” John Riddell, Birlinn, Edinburgh, 2022