To Inveraray by the Loch Eck Route

By on May 1, 2023 in Clyde River and Firth, Crarae, Fairy, Fairy Queen, Inveraray, King Edward, King George V, Loch Eck, Lord of the Isles, Queen Alexandra, St Catherine's, Strachur | 0 comments

It was David Napier, one of the pioneers of steamships on the Clyde, who opened up the route to Inveraray by Loch Eck and Strachur. In 1827, he placed the iron-bottomed Aglaia on Loch Eck and the old Marion from Loch Lomond, renamed Thalia, to sail between Strachur and Inveraray. In 1829, he introduced steam carriages on the connecting roads from his pier at Kilmun to the foot of the Loch and from its head to Strachur. The steam carriages were quickly withdrawn as too heavy for the road surfaces, but the route proved popular with coaches instead of the steam carriages, and the whole road along the side of Loch Eck was improved at this time. At the end of the season in 1835, Napier sold his steamboats on the Clyde and moved his enterprise to London. Among the steamboats sold was the Aglaia, and her subsequent adventures on Loch Fyne as Strachur, and on the Clyde as the James Gallacher are documented elsewhere.

“Glasgow and Inverary.—The Kilmun and Earl Grey sail for Greenock, Gourock, Dunoon, and Kilmun, three times a-day leaving Glasgow every morning at half-past 6 and at 10 and every afternoon at 4. Passengers for Inverary leave Glasgow in the half-past 6 boat for Kilmun, from whence the coach will leave at ten, passing along the beautiful banks of Loch Eck and arriving at Inverary about one, crossing Lochfine in the Strachur steamer. Passengers for Glasgow will leave Inverary about half-past 11. A coach leaves Inverary daily for Oban, from whence steamers ply to Iona, Staffa, and Inverness, thus affording to travellers a cheap and expeditious mode of visiting the most beautiful and interesting scenery in Scotland. Tickets for Greenock, Gourock, Dunoon, and Kilmun maybe had at the North British Steam Navigation Co.’s Office, Madeira Court, 263 Argyll Street. The Greenock and Gourock tickets will be taken by the St. Mungo and James Dennistoun.—Hugh Price, Glasgow, 7th July, 1836”

In July, connections were extended to include a coach through Glen Croe to Arrochar and Tarbet on Loch Lomond.

“The steamer Strachur will leave Inverary for Cairndow on Monday the 18th July at 8 o’clock morning precisely and continue to ply every lawful day thereafter during the season. At Cairndow a coach waits to convey passengers to Tarbet by Glencroe to meet the Lochlomond steamer. Passengers taking this route leave Glasgow at half-past 6 o’clock morning by the Vale of Leven or New Dumbarton steamers, and arrive at Inverary about 8 o’clock same evening. Passengers leaving Inverary, per Strachur steamer at 8 o’clock morning, will arrive at Glasgow per same conveyance about 8 o’clock evening. Sufficient time allowed at Cairndow for breakfast and at Tarbet for dinner, after the arrival of the steamers, before the coach starts—Tarbet, 14th July, 1836”

The alternative route to Inveraray by Lochgoilhead also improved their connections with the provision of a steam ferry-boat, Argyll, between St. Catherine’s across Loch Fyne to the town.

“Inveraray, Lochgoilhead, &c.—The Lochgoil will, on Tuesday next, the 10th instant, commence to ply daily to and from Lochgoilhead conveying passengers between Glasgow and Inverary as usual. The company have contracted for a new steam boat to be placed on the ferry between Inverary and St. Catherine’s, which is it is expected will commence playing in the course of a few weeks.—6th May 1836”—Glasgow Herald, May 9, 1836

The new ferry arrived to begin service in July.

“A beautiful little steamer has been established between Glasgow and Inverary, by Lochgoilhead—insuring a pleasant sail across Lochfine, and completing the magnificent route of Lochgoil and the Devil’s Glen to Inverary”—Scotsman, July 23, 1836

“Steam conveyance to and from Inveraray, by Lochgoilhead.—The steamer Lochgoil sails every morning for Lochgoilhead with passengers for Inveraray as usual at seven o’clock and the new steamer Argyll will leave Inveraray Quay every awful day at nine o’clock, with those passengers who prefer to walk across to Lochgoilhead, and the same steamer will leave Inveraray with passengers for the coaches at a quarter before 10 o’clock. The said boat will wait the arrival of the passengers from Glasgow to convey them from St. Catherine to Inveraray. This line of communication between Glasgow and Inveraray, by the establishment of the steamboat on the ferry, is rendered perfectly complete. The scenery is the most splendid, romantic, and mountainous, and at once a delightful route for the tourist and a pleasant and expeditious one for travellers.—Glasgow 18th, July, 1836

It would seem the Strachur connection ended early in 1837 with the sale of the steamer, and with it the route through Loch Eck to Inveraray. Advertisements for the steamers to Kilmun, Kilmun and Earl Grey, no longer mentioned the extension to Inveraray. The Lochgoilhead route, however, maintained an Inveraray advertisement. A confusing feature is the appearance of a river steamer named Argyle (advertised as Argyll) in addition to the Loch Fyne ferry boat. The new vessel was advertised sailing under the command of Captain William Ewing, for Greenock, Gourock, Dunoon, Rothesay, Tarbert, Lochgilphead, and Inverary, leaving Glasgow Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, and returning on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. She was managed by Hugh Price who also managed the Kilmun connection, and so perhaps, this was the alternative for the demise of the Loch Eck route. The new Argyle experienced a boiler explosion at Renfrew in 1839 and was subsequently sold off the river.

The alternative route, by way of Lochgoilhead and Hell’s Glen to St Catherine’s was in the ascendancy for the next twenty years.

“Glasgow and Inverary, by Lochgoilhead.—The Lochgoil steamer continues to sail to and from Lochgoilhead with passengers between Glasgow and Inverary every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, and intermediate days to and from Greenock as usual. As at present she will leave Glasgow at 7 o’clock morning, but on and after Monday first, the 9th current, she will not sail from Greenock till 3 o’clock afternoon and the Argyll will leave Inverary at half-past 9 o’clock morning with passengers for Glasgow.—Glasgow, 6th March, 1840”

“Inverary via Lochgoilhead.—The fine steamer Lochlong, Capt. Graham, having now undergone a thorough overhaul, and been refitted with new boilers of the most approved construction, will resume plying on Wednesday first (the 27th instant), and sail from Glasgow Bridge every morning at 7 o’clock for Greenock, Gourock, Ardentenny, and Lochgoilhead with passengers for Inverary. The steamer Argyll having been also repaired and put in first rate order will leave Inverary every morning at 9 o’clock, with passengers for Glasgow.—Glasgow, 25th May, 1846”—Glasgow Herald, May 25, 1846

A engraving of Inveraray from the south around 1847 (Bouquet)

“Expeditious route from Glasgow to Inverary via Lochgoil in five hours. The Premier or Lochlomond sails from Greenock every Saturday evening at six o’clock (railway train from Glasgow at five) for Ardentinny, Lochgoilhead and Arrochar. Passengers for Inverary land at Lochgoilhead where conveyances are in waiting to proceed to St. Catherine’s ferry and from thence per steamer Argyll to Inverary. The steamer Premier or Lochlomond returns on the Monday morning from Arrochar at six, and Lochgoilhead at half-past seven o’clock, arriving at Greenock in time for the half-past nine o’clock train. Passengers from Inverary leave per steamer Argyll at 5 a.m.—29th June, 1848”—Glasgow Herald, June 30, 1848

“To Inverary in six hours.—The steamer Breadalbane sails from Glasgow Bridge Wharf every morning at half-past eight, for Greenock, Gourock, Ardentinny, and Lochgoilhead, with passengers for Inverary. Passengers for Glasgow leave Inverary, per steamer Argyll, every morning at a quarter-past ten. Fares.—Between Glasgow and Lochgoilhead, cabin 2s. 6d., steerage 2s. 0d.; Between Greenock and Lochgoilhead, cabin 2s. 0d., steerage 1s. 6d.—Glasgow, 14th May, 1849.”—Glasgow Herald, May 14, 1849

In 1848 an attempt was made to develop Kilmun as a water bathing place.

“We are glad to observe that and desideratum on the West Coast, the want of which has long been regretted is about to be supplied at Kilmun. There are at present erecting at that delightful water-place not only hot and cold baths, but machines are being constructed to run into the sea on railways which will enable gentlemen in bathing to undress and dress in perfect seclusion.”—Greenock Advertiser, June 30, 1848

At the same time, Kilmun was made a post town, and a coach link along the side of Loch Eck to St. Catherine’s on Loch Fyne was introduced.

“Notice.—To coach proprietors, innkeepers, and others. Persons who may be willing to undertake the conveyance of her majesty’s mail bags between Kilmun and St. Catherine’s ferry by mail cart, at a rate of speed not less than seven miles an hour, are requested to send in written tenders, stating the terms per annum upon which they will contract for the same, direct to me at the post office, Edinburgh, on or before the 1st day of May next. After which date no tender can be received.—John P Goode, Surveyor G.P.O. Particulars of the contract may be obtained upon application to the postmasters of the above towns.”—Glasgow Herald, April 2, 1848

“Kilmun is now a penny post on Glasgow instead of on Dunoon, as formerly, and the mails are despatched hence to Glasgow at 10 p.m. The arrangement is certainly very absurd which causes letters and newspapers to travel from Greenock to Glasgow merely to be immediately brought down again by the same road to Greenock, to be shipped at the quay here, when they might be transferred at once from the office to the steamer; but that is the order. Letters from Kilmun, Inverary, &c., require to be posted here before 10 p.m., to secure their delivery early next day. If posted later, they do not reach until the second day. A steamer runs from this early in the morning with these mails—those for Inverary being conveyed by a post-gig along the side of Loch Eck to St. Catherine’s.—Greenock Advertiser, September 5, 1848.

“Notice.—A M‘Murtrie & Co., Kilmun Hotel., beg to intimate that on and after Monday the 20th Nov., a coach will run daily till further notice, between Kilmun and St. Catherine’s ferry, lochfine-side leaving Kilmun about 7 a.m. on arrival of the mail steamer that leaves Greenock at 6 a.m. calling, going and returning, at Whistlefield and Strachur arriving at St. Catherine’s about 11 o’clock forenoon, where ferry boats will convey parties to Inverrary; and from St. Catherine’s Inn at 1.30 p.m., arriving at Kilmun for the mail steamer which departs at 4.55 p.m. for Greenock. Passengers conveyed to Glasgow from Greenock by the 6.30 p.m. train. Fares:—Kilmun to St. Catherine’s, inside 5s. outside 3s.; Kilmun to Whistlefield, inside 2s. outside 1s. 6d.; Kilmun to Strachur, inside 4s. outside 2s. 6d.; Whistlefield to St. Catherine’s, inside 3s. outside 2s.; Strachur to St. Catherine’s, inside 1s. 6d. outside 1s. Tickets for intermediate stations may be had at the respective Inns.—Kilmun Hotel, Nov. 9, 1848.”—Glasgow Herald, November 10, 1848.

“Commissioners of Supply—Road Trustees for Argyllshire—At a meeting held Inverary on Wednesday—the Duke of Argyll in the chair—there were reports given in from south Argyll and Lorne districts as to the present postal arrangements to and from the south country, the former condemning the present route via Kilmun and Strachur to Inverary and the latter acknowledging the benefit resulting from it. The consideration however of this important matter was delayed till a future meeting. From what we can learn of this subject, we consider the county is much indebted to Lord Murray and the convener of the county, for the present acceleration of the mail, which now arrives at Inverary every lawful day before 10.30 a.m. and is dispatched at 12.30 p.m., in place of the old system of arriving by land about mid-day, and dispatched the following morning about nine o’clock.”—Edinburgh Evening Post, October 6, 1849

The Castle and town in the 1850s (Banks)

There is evidence that the coach was not paying its way, and it would appear that the post gig ran in addition to the coach. On 1st of March, 1849, the coach service was cut-back to run on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, returning on the alternating days. How long it survived, is hard to trace, but the Kilmun Hotel changed hands in 1854 with the coach as one of its assets. An article on Clyde resorts in the Greenock Advertiser in 1853 included Kilmun, and indicated that the coach along Loch Eck to Strachur was no longer in operation.

“Kilmun.—Of this fine spot we cannot write as we have done of Innellan. It has both a past and present, and for ages was the burial place of the Argyll family. Forty years since, the church, and few houses thatched with brackens, if we remember right, was all that Kilmun could boast of. At that time the guide pointed out, in the old vault, coffin after coffin, and told us the number and name of the Duke whose remains it contained. There was not then built one of the houses which now border the sunny basking bay. This is the most warm and sheltered spot on the coast; perhaps, to the generality of coasters, too much so; but to the emaciated and weak, perfect asylum from the north and east winds, which are the terror of every invalid. A good road runs from Kilmun to Strachur on Loch Fyne side, by Loch Eck, a fresh water lake, which lies amidst the solitude of the everlasting hills which surround it. This was once the overland route to Inverary, tourists being conveyed by omnibus to Loch Eck, and thence by steamer to the head of the lake; by omnibus again to Strachur, and finally by steamer on Lochfyne to Inverary. This route is now abandoned for the one by Lochgoilhead; but the road all the way to Strachur is kept in excellent repair, and affords to the residents at Kilmun a fine drive through a wild and lonely district, where nought is seen but mountains and “the lift,” and no sound heard but the bleat of the sheep or the whirr of the muirfowl. The river, which falls into Holy-Loch, is one of the finest trout streams on the west coast, and the lovers of piscatory adventure find in it excellent sport. Kilmun consists of one row of houses built along the bay, each having a frontage to the sea. As it is pressed upon immediately by a steep hill, there is no room for cross streets; consequently it can never assume the appearance of a town. It possesses an exceedingly well-conducted inn.”—Greenock Advertiser, July 22, 1853

The tourist traffic went by way of Lochgoilhead and the shorter coach connection to St. Catherine’s.

“Steam and coach conveyance via Lochgoilhead, between Glasgow and Inverary.—The fine steamer Lochgoil, Captain M‘lntyre, sails from Glasgow Bridge every morning, except Mondays at half-past eight—train at nine, on Monday mornings at 10.45—train at eleven. From Greenock every Saturday at four p.m., train from Glasgow at three p.m., for Lochgoilhead (With passengers for Inverary), calling at Greenock, Kilcreggan, Cove, Portenstuck, and Ardentinny, going and returning. On Saturday, the Lochgoil returns to Greenock only, and sails again from Greenock for Lochgoilhead at 4 o’clock p.m. (on arrival of the 3 o’clock train from Glasgow), leaving Lochgoilhead for Glasgow early on Monday mornings. Excursionists may thus leave Glasgow on Saturday afternoon at 3, reach Inverary about 8 o’clock same evening, and return early on Monday morning. At Lochgoilhead a splendid and efficiently appointed four-horse coach awaits the arrival of the steamer at mid-day, by which passengers are conveyed to St. Catherine’s, on the banks of Lochfine—a distance of seven miles—thence by the Co.’s steamer Argyle, across the loch to Inverary. TheArgyle leaves Inverary every morning, except Mondays, at 10 o’clock, and on Mondays at 12 noon, with passengers for Glasgow and other points on the route. The whole distance between Glasgow and Inverary, and vice versa, is accomplished in about six hours. Pleasure parties by the Lochgoil from Glasgow, or any of the intermediate places, to Lochgoilhead, going and returning same day, charged only one fare:—viz. Fares.—from Glasgow to Lochgoilhead. cabin, 2s.; steerage, 1s. 6d. from Greenock or Gourock so Lochgoilhead, 1s. 6d.”—Commonwealth, Saturday, July 4, 1857.

During a brief spell of railway mania in 1861, a railway between Dunoon and Lochfyne-side was proposed, along the shore of Loch Eck. The cost estimate was £70,000, but the project was abandoned, only to be revived in 1873, projecting journeys between Glasgow and Inveraray in 2½ hours as opposed to the 7 hours then current.

At Inveraray Cross around 1865

Revival there was, however, not by a railway, but by a coach, when the mail contract changed hands. In 1862, a letter to the Glasgow Herald by “an erratic tourist” detailed the state of transport in the west highlands. It was reported that the line from Oban to Inveraray had recently been opened for the tourist by Mr Campbell of Airds, Appin, who had contracted for the mails and had “dove-tailed” this into a coach with such success that he had put on the Rover coach on the road from Inveraray via Strachur and Kilmun to Glasgow, leaving the western shore of Lochfyne at 7.30 a.m. by steamer for Strachur, and due in Glasgow by steamer from Kilmun, or train from Greenock, about 1 p.m. The steamer on Lochfyneside was the old Argyle.

“New route to Inveraray, via Kilmun, Loch Eck, and Strachur.—The Rover coach is now running between Kilmun and Inveraray—leaving Kilmun about ¼ before 6 p.m. Leaving Inveraray, per Argyle steamer to Strachur, at ½-past 7 a.m. The journey from Kilmun to Inveraray only occupies about 3 hours, and the scenery is unsurpassed. Seats secured at Mr James Walker’s, 29 Cambridge Street, and Mr Andrew Menzies, 124 Argyll Street, Glasgow; and Mr Malcolm, Steam Packet Agent, Inveraray. Fare:—from Kilmun to Inveraray, 4s. 6d.; Driver’s fee, 6d.”—Glasgow Herald, August 9, 1862

“Kilmun and Inveraray Coach.—This coach is now running daily from Kilmun, via Loch Eck and Strachur, to St Catherine’s, thence per steamer Argyle to Inveraray—leaving Glasgow per 4 p.m. train to Greenock, thence by steamer to Kilmun. Coach leaves Kilmun at 6 p.m., arriving in Inveraray about 9 p.m. Leaving Inveraray at 7.30 a.m., arriving at Kilmun about 10.30 a.m. Fares—Kilmun to Inveraray, 4s. 6d.; Coachman’s fee, 6d. Seats secured and information given at the offices of Mr James Walker’s, Cambridge Street, and Mr Andrew Menzies, 124 Argyll Street, Glasgow. W. Malcolm, proprietor, Inveraray, July 20, 1863.”—Glasgow Herald, August 1, 1863

“Quickest route to Inveraray.—Kilmun and Inveraray Coach.—This coach is now running daily from Kilmun, via Loch Eck and Strachur, to St Catherine’s, thence per steamer Argyle to Inveraray—leaving Glasgow per 4.07 p.m. train to Greenock, thence per steamer to Kilmun. Coach leaves Kilmun at 6 p.m., arriving in Inveraray about 9 p.m.—leaving Inveraray at 7.30 a.m., arriving at Kilmun about 10.30 a.m., thence per steamer to Glasgow, arriving about 1p.m. Fares—Kilmun to Inveraray, 4s. 6d. Seats secured and information given at the offices of James Walker, Cambridge Street, and Andrew Menzies, 124 Argyll Street, Glasgow. W. Malcolm, proprietor, Inveraray, July 11, 1864.”—Glasgow Herald, September 4, 1864

“Quickest route between Glasgow and Inveraray.—From Glasgow daily by steamers Lochgoil and Lochlong at 8.30 a.m. and 3.40 p.m. (trains at 9 a.m. and 4.45 p.m.) to Lochgoilhead, thence by coach to St Catherine’s, across Lochfyne per steamer Argyll, to Inveraray. From Inveraray to Glasgow daily at 5.30 and 10.30 a.m. N.B.—Parties leaving Inveraray at 5.30 a.m. can have six hours in Glasgow, and return by the afternoon steamer. Fares between Glasgow and Inveraray—first class, 5s. 6.; second class, 4s.”—Glasgow Herald, September 4, 1864

The hustings at Inveraray for the 1865 election, the last election before the franchise was extended.

In 1865, Mr Walter Malcolm who managed the Inveraray Ferry and Coach Co., ordered a new iron paddle steamer for the Loch Fyne ferry. The Fairy was built by Messrs J. Patterson, Port Glasgow. She was just 60 feet in length by 13¼ feet in breadth and was powered by a 2 cylinder engine of 15 h.p. provided by Messrs William Smith & Co., Greenock. She was a pretty vessel and a great improvement on the old Argyll. The old ferry, remained in service for some time, taking the Strachur connection from Inveraray in the morning, connecting with the new Vivid at Kilmun. The new ferry took the main tourist sailing, leaving at noon, and returning to Inveraray with passengers who left the Iona at Dunoon for Strachur.

“New ferry steamer for Inveraray, &c.—On Saturday Mr James Patterson, shipbuilder, Ladyburn, near Port-Glasgow, launched a fine little iron paddle-steamer of 30 tons, and 15 horse-power, which is specially built to ply on Lochfyne, at the ferries, between Inverary and Strachur and St Catherine’s. She was launched with the engines on board. These are diagonal in form, and were made and put on board by Messrs William Smith & Co., Greenock. Steam is to be got up on board to-day; and the steamer, which is named the Fairy, is expected to be upon the station in the course of the present week. The Fairy was christened by Miss Malcolm, daughter of Mr Walter Malcolm, of Inverary, the managing owner. This fine little vessel will be a very decided improvement in the passenger conveyance in the delightful district in which she is to ply—a district which is gradually becoming more and more popular as a route for tourists. The Fairy is owned by a new company which has been formed with a view to facilitate and popularise the route direct from Glasgow via Dunoon, Sandbank, Loch Eck, and Strachur, a route which, in romantic beauty, presents great attraction to tourists. The Fairy is a beautiful model, and does credit to Mr Patterson, her builder, who has on the stocks three small screw-steamers for the Mexican trade.”—North British Daily Mail, June 12, 1865

Inveraray in the 1860s with Fairy o the beach (Becket)

Inveraray Cross with Fairy off the end of the pier. Behind the cross is anther small paddle steamer, perhaps the Argyll

Fairy posing off Inveraray

Fairy crossing Loch Fyne

“Quickest route.—Inverary & Glasgow, via Strachur and Kilmun. On and after Monday, 10th instant, a coach will commence running on the above road. Passengers will leave Inveraray per steamer Argyll daily at 7 a.m., and return from Kilmun in the afternoon, on arrival of the steamer Vivid from Greenock in connection with the 4.05 p.m. train from Glasgow. Coach fares between Kilmun and Strachur, 3s. and 3s. 6d. Steamer fares between Strachur and Inveraray, 1s. N.B.—Coach tickets to be had from Mr John Robertson, Ironmonger, Inveraray; or from the Captain of the Vivid.—Glasgow Herald, July 15, 1865.

An attempt was made to attract more tourist traffic by starting the Strachur coach from Dunoon in connection with the new Iona. This connection was carried by the Fairy.

“Dunoon & Inverary, via Loch Eck and Strachur.—Quickest route—Scenery Unequalled.—A coach will leave Dunoon—on arrival of the steamer Iona, leaving Glasgow at 7 a.m., train 7.40—for Strachur; thence per steamer Fairy for Inveraray, arriving also at 1 p.m. The steamer Fairy will leave Inveraray for Strachur at 12 noon, thence by coach to Dunoon, in time for Iona at 3.45. The steamer Fairy will leave Inveraray at 8a.m. for Strachur, thence per coach to Dunoon, arriving there in time for the steamer to Glasgow at 11.40. The coach will leave Dunoon for Strachur on arrival of the 2 p.m. steamer from Glasgow, train, 3 p.m., thence per steamer to Inveraray, arriving about 8 p.m. Fare:—Coach and steamer; Dunoon to Inveraray 4s. 6d. and 5s.; Dunoon to Glasgow 9d. and 1s. Seats secured, and every information given, at the offices of James Walker, 29 Cambridge Street, and Andrew Menzies, City Omnibus Office, 124 Argyll Street, Glasgow; and K. M‘Leod, Dunoon.—W. Malcolm, manager, July 12, 1865.”—Glasgow Herald, July 15, 1865

The old ferry pier at Strachur

There were helpful submissions to the newspapers to entice potential travellers to the route.

“Dunoon and Inveraray Coaches.—For a trip of unequalled beauty there is perhaps none to be found at Dunoon, superior to that opened up by the omnibuses running between this favourite watering-place and Strachur, and the steamboat communication thence to Inveraray. The route is through scenery that for variety and romantic beauty must delight the eyes of all admirers of the picturesque. The route is by Sandbank, round the head of Holy Loch, along the banks of the Echaig, past Benmore, to Loch Eck. Here you have the loch on the left, with rugged bold hills on the right, for six or seven miles to the very head of the loch, round which you turn at Driepe. About mid-day, of course, you pass the well-known Whistlefield Inn. At Strachur a change is made to the fine little saloon steamer Fairy—a craft of some 30 tons only, but a pretty little steam yacht it is, built by Mr. Paterson, and engined by Messrs. Smith & Co., at Greenock, for this special service. The arrangements of the coach and steamer are highly creditable to Mr. Malcolm, Inveraray, the general manager, and Mr. K. M‘Leod, pier master, Dunoon.—Communicated.”—Glasgow Herald, August 9, 1865

Inveraray in the 1860s

Competition with the Lochgoilhead route continued, and coaches and the steamer on Loch Fyne were managed for both routes by Mr Malcolm. The fact that the Lochgoil connection mentions the Fairy, suggests that the older Argyll was still used on the Strachur cossing.

“Kilmun and Inveraray coach.—Quickest route to Inveraray.—On and after 1st July, the Kilmun and Inveraray coach, via Loch Eck and Strachur, will commence running for the season—leaving Inveraray at 7.30 a.m., in connection with the steamer from Kilmun to Glasgow at 11 a.m. Leaving Glasgow per steamer at 2.50 p.m., train to Greenock at 4, thence per swift steamer Vivid to Kilmun, thence per coach, arriving at Inveraray about 8 p.m. Fare—Kilmun to Inveraray, 4s. 6d. and 5s. Seats secured, and information given, at the offices of John E. Walker, Cambridge Street, and Andrew Menzies, 124 Argyll Street, Glasgow; and the Captain of the Vivid, and to Walter Malcolm.—Inveraray, 1st June, 1867”—Glasgow Herald, June 28, 1867

“Inveraray ferry and coach Co. (Limited). Inveraray & Lochgoilhead.—On and after 1st July the steamer Fairy leaves Inveraray for St Catherine’s at 10.30 a.m. in connection with coach Rover, to Lochgoilhead; coach returning on arrival of Lochgoil Boat from Glasgow. The steamer from St Catherine’s to Inveraray carries the passengers of this coach only. Fares—Lochgoilhead to Inveraray—coach and steamer:—2s. 6d. Out; 3s In. Tickets at Lochgoilhead, to be had from the coachman only, and at Inveraray from Captain of the Fairy, and W. Malcolm, Manager.—Inveraray, June, 1867”—Glasgow Herald, June 28, 1867

“Kilmun and Inveraray coach.—Quickest route to Inveraray.—The Kilmun and Inveraray coach, via Loch Eck and Strachur, is now running for the season—leaving Inveraray at 7.30 a.m., in connection with the steamer from Kilmun to Glasgow at 11 a.m. Leaving Glasgow per steamer at 12 noon (allowing 2 hours at Kilmun), or train to Greenock at 4.05 p.m., thence per swift steamer Vivid to Kilmun, thence per coach, arriving at Inveraray about 8.30 p.m. Fare—Kilmun to Inveraray, 4s. 6d. and 5s. Seats secured, and information given, at the offices of John E. Walker, Cambridge Street, and Andrew Menzies, 124 Argyll Street, Glasgow; and the Captain of the Vivid, and to Walter Malcolm.—Inveraray, 18th July, 1867”—Glasgow Herald, August 31, 1867

The year 1867 was significant as the year in which Mr Malcolm Turner Clark (M. T. Clark) came into the management of the Loch Goil and Loch Long Steamboat Co. The energy that he brought was felt almost immediately. A coach to run from Strachur to Lochgoilhead was put on, in addition to the coach from St. Catherine’s. This attracted local traffic, and in 1869, the Kilmun connection was no longer advertised, and presumably the coach along the side of Loch Eck was withdrawn.

“Glasgow, Lochgoilhead, and Inveraray.—Additional accommodation.—John Campbell is now running a coach from Lochgoilhead to St. Catherine’s (and Strachur) then per ferry to Inveraray, on arrival of the Ardencaple which leaves Glasgow at half-past 8; train 9; leaving Strachur at 10:00 a.m. and Inveraray at 11 a.m. via Ardencaple from Lochgoilhead about a quarter-past 1 p.m.; train half-past 3 p.m.”—Glasgow Herald, August 31, 1868.

The Loch Goil Company went from strength to strength. In 1870, they had the iron steamer Carrick Castle built at Paisley by Messrs J. Fullerton & Co.. She was 192 feet long by 18 feet broad and was flush-decked. Her side-lever engine was the product of Messrs William King & Co., Glasgow and provided 86 h.p.

“Launch of the Carrick Castle.—A few years since, the steam-boat builders on the Cart were famed for turning out steamers of the finest model, and second to none, of the same class and size, in swiftness; and although these builders have gone elsewhere, it is gratifying to find that shipbuilding has been again resumed by a Paisley firm (Messrs John Fullerton & Co.), and that they are launching every now and then new steamers which are giving great satisfaction. One of those interesting events—a launch—took place on Saturday at their building yard at Merksworth. A number of ladies and gentlemen were present to witness the launch, and precisely at 15 minutes past one o’clock the last of the shores was struck out, and the Carrick Castle glided broadside into the water so gracefully and easily that the wave which rose the opposite bank was not more than three or four inches in height. A cheer from the spectators, as well as from the workmen, expressed the general feeling at the success of the launching operation. The ceremony of naming was performed by Miss Livingstone, daughter of Mr Livingstone of Drumsiynie; and although a very young lady, she appeared fully to realise the importance of her position, and without affectation did all that was required. The Carrick Castle has been built for the Lochgoil and Lochlong Steamboat Company, and is to run between Glasgow and Greenock and Lochgoilhead. Her dimensions are as follows:—Length, 190 feet; breadth. 18 feet; depth, 7½ feet. The engines are to be supplied by Mesars Wm. King & Co., engineers, Glasgow. A dejeuner succeeded the launch. Mr Chambers, one of the proprietors, presided, and amongst the gentlemen present were—Provost Swan of Maryhill, Mr Livingstone, Capt. M‘Kellar, inspector, Mr King, contractor; Mr M. Hodgart, Captain Barr, Mr Bald, Mr Clark, &c. The toasts usual on such occasions were given and replied to. The Chairman expressed himself very much pleased with the appearance of the new vessel, and complimented the builders on the expedition with which it had been constructed. By and bye, he said, they would have a trial trip, and he felt satisfied the Carrick Castle would not show the white feather to any other vessel on the Clyde. He believed the company could not have been in better hands than in those of John Fullerton & Co., and he was confident it would show those to be mistaken who thought a first-class steamer could not be built in Paisley. Another Glasgow gentleman remarked that, looking at the Carrick Castle, he would strongly urge that those who had steamboats to build should not give their orders until they had tried Paisley. Mr John Fullerton, representing Messrs Fullerton & Co., said they had been very anxious to get a Clyde steamer to build, to show the Glasgow people what they could do on the Cart, and he would both be very much surprised and disappointed if the Carrick Castle did not come up to the mark. The new steamer was taken up to Glasgow to be engined on Monday.”—Paisley Herald, May 7, 1870

Carrick Castle reversing into a berth behind the Vivid; two steamers with competing routes to Inveraray

“Trial trip of the Carrick Castle.—The trial trip this fine steamer, which was launched recently by Messrs John Fullerton & Co. of Paisley, for the Lochgoil and Lochlong route, took place last Saturday. As we gave minute description of her at the time of the launch, it will sufficient here to indicate the chief peculiarities of her construction. Her dimensions are:—Length; 190 feet breadth, 18 feet; depth, 7½ feet; and she has been fitted with single diagonal engines of the latest construction by Messrs Wm. King Co. of Glasgow. The cabin is fitted up in the most luxurious style, and her whole construction is such as befits a first-class vessel. On Saturday morning she started from the Bridge Wharf with a large company on board, stopping at Greenock to take in others, and afterwards proceeding to Lochgoilhead, stopping at various points on the route to take in parties. Her appearance created quite a sensation at the different villages on Lochgoil. The castle from which she takes her name was decorated with flags, which compliment was acknowledged in passing by a salute from her gun, which was returned by those in the castle. The vessel afterwards proceeded down the Firth, and ran the mile at Skelmorlie, attaining a speed of about 17 miles per hour under rather adverse circumstances, as the tide opposed her in one direction and the wind in another. In the course of the afternoon the company on board, to the number of about 90, sat down to dinner in the large saloon. Among those present were—Senor Raison, Senor Astreu, Mr Inkerman, Mr R. Livingstone of Drumsynie; Provost Swan of Maryhill; ex-Provost Boyd, Renfrew; Councillor Chalmers, Bailie Lamb, Paisley; Councillor Hendry, Greenock; Captains M‘Kellar, Campbell. Stewart, Small, Buchanan, Messrs Pringle, Douglas. Miller, Gourlay, Dobie, Roy, Gilchrist, Fullerton, King, M‘Arthur, and others. After dinner, the usual loyal and patriotic toasts having been disposed of, the Chairman proposed “Success to the Carrick Castle.” She was a fine vessel, and as far as elegance was concerned nothing could surpass her. He hoped that there was before her a long career of prosperity. The toast was heartily drunk. Mr Chalmers replied on behalf of the shareholders. The health of Mr Douglas, who had presented a set of flags to the vessel, was heartily drunk, and a number of toasts followed. The vessel afterwards proceeded up Lochgoil to land those belonging to that quarter, and arrived at the Broomielaw late in the evening.”—Paisley Herald, May 28, 1870

The new steamer took the primary tourist sailing from Glasgow, and was able to offer a second sailing to Lochgoilhead from Greenock. The old Lochgoil took the morning run from Lochgoil, returning in late afternoon, allowing local residents to spend time in Glasgow.

“The popular route to the Highlands—Lochgoilhead, Inveraray, and Strachur. The Royal Mail steamer Carrick Castlesails daily from Greenock, Gourock, Kilcreggan, Cove, Blairmore, Ardentinny, and Lochgoilhead as under:—Down. Glasgow to Lochgoilhead at 9 a.m., trains G.&S.W. (from Dunlop Street) 10 a.m.; C.R. (from Bridge Street) 10 a.m.; in connection with coach to Strachur and Inveraray at 12.45 p.m. Up. Lochgoilhead to Glasgow at 3:30 p.m. train to Dunlop Street 5:40 p.m.; train to Bridge Street 5:30 p.m.; in connection with coach from Strachur at 12 noon and in connection with coach from Inveraray at 1 p.m. Tickets sold and all information given at Inveraray by Mr. J Rodger.—M. T. Clark, 5 Dixon St.”—Glasgow Herald, August 28, 1872

In the twenty years that had passed since the Castle Company steamers had been withdrawn, the regular sailings from Glasgow direct to Inveraray had been carried out by two steamers, Mary Jane and Inveraray Castle, that sailed on alternate days to provide a daily service. In 1875, the Mary Jane was withdrawn by Messrs Hutcheson, and renamed Glencoe to work on west highland routes. The Lochgoil Company replaced the old Lochgoil with a new steamer, Windsor Castle, built by Messrs T. B. Seath at Rutherglen.

Windsor Castle at Lochgoilhead. She was fitted with a deck saloon after the Edinburgh Castle was added to the fleet

“Launch of the Windsor Castle.—The steamer Windsor Castle, built by Messrs T. B. Seath & Co., for the Lochgoilhead Steamboat Company, was launched at Rutherglen on Tuesday. Among those present on the occasion were Mr Wm. Maclean, jun., Plantation, chairman of the company; Councillor Chalmers; Messrs John Carmichael, David Swan, W. H. Scott, M. T. Clark, secretary of the company; W. King, — Lang, T. B. Seath, — Connel, Captain Barr; Mrs Livingstone, Drimsynie; Miss Emily Nina Livingstone, and, Mrs Connel. The vessel was named as she started down the ways by Miss Emily Nina Livingstone, Drimsynie, Lochgoilhead. The Windsor Castle is 195 feet long, 19 feet beam, and 7 feet 3 inch depth—being of slightly greater tonnage than the Carrick Castle. She has a handsome main saloon, which will be decorated in the modern style, and has a large bridge or hurricane deck. The steering apparatus is in front of this, so that the view of the pilot is entirely uninterrupted, and in front is a gangway across the deck from which the captain may have a clear look out ahead. She is to be engined by Messrs William King & Co., Paisley Road, with diagonal engines of 85-horse power, and with all the latest improvements, and is expected to be very fast. She will be taken down the river to be engined, is expected to be ready for her trial trip by 15th May, and will take her station shortly afterwards. After the launch the company adjourned to the drawing shop where refreshments were served.”—Glasgow Herald, April 22, 1875

“The new river steamer Windsor Castle.—The fine new river steamer Windsor Castle, owned by the Lochgoil and Lochlong Steamboat Company, made a very successful trial trip on Saturday. The Windsor Castle, which has been built by Messrs T. B. Seath & Co., Rutherglen and engined by Messrs Wm. King & Co., Glasgow will ply between Glasgow and Lochgoilhead, sharing with the Carrick Castle, whose popularity is well known, the favours of the route. She is a vessel of about 200 feet in length, 19 feet beam, and 3 feet 3 inches average draft of water. Her engines (diagonal) are 100-horse power. In regard to the fittings, they are of the usual superior description of Clyde steamers. The saloon is a large and airy apartment, tastefully decorated and elegantly furnished, and the dining-cabin, situated in the fore part of the ship, is capable of accommodating from 80 to 100 persons. The Carrick Castle will continue to sail from Glasgow at nine o’clock, calling at Greenock, Kilcreggan, Cove, Blairmore, and Ardentinny; while it is intended that the Windsor Castle, which will be placed on the station about the beginning of June, will leave Glasgow at 10.30, making the passage by way of Greenock, Gourock, Kilcreggan, Dunoon, Kirn, Hunter’s Quay, and Ardentinny. Coaches between Lochgoilhead and Inveraray will run in connection with both steamers. Captain Barr, formerly of the Carrick Castle, is to command the Windsor Castle, being succeeded in the former boat by the chief officer, Mr Muir. Mr Robert Ferguson, steward, is also to be transferred from the Carrick Castle. On Saturday, a stiff N.N.W. wind prevailed, but otherwise the weather was all that could be desired, and afforded a rare opportunity for the enjoyment of the fine scenery which everywhere meets the eye between Greenock and Lochgoilhead. The vessel, having a party of ladies and gentlemen on board, started from Greenock shortly after ten o’clock, and made a good run to her destination, displaying the quality as well of steadiness in sailing as of rapidity of motion through the water. She called at a number of the intermediate stations, and at each there was an exhibition of the good-will entertained towards the company, and of the favour in which their steamer is held. Having completed the return passage as far as Dunoon, the steamer held across the firth for Skelmorlie, where the measured mile was run. The strong breeze already referred to was somewhat unfavourable, but it must be considered that the result of the test was satisfactory. A speed of 18.521 miles an hour was attained, and the time occupied was 3 minutes 45 seconds. Afterwards, the company sat down to dinner in the saloon—Wm. MacLean, jun., of Plantation, chairman of the Steam-boat Company, presiding. Dinner over, and the usual introductory toasts disposed of, the Chairman, in a few appropriate remarks, proposed “Success to the Windsor Castle,” of whose fitness for the work for which she was intended, and of whose admirable conduct on her trial trip they had that day been witnesses. “The Lochgoil and Lochlong Steamboat Company” was next given, Mr MacLean remarking that the company was formed in 1825—50 years ago—so that it might be said they were now met; not only to inaugurate their new steamer, but to celebrate the jubilee of the company. Mr M. T. Clark, manager, acknowledged the compliment. The other toasts were “The Builders,” “The Engineers,” “The Directors of the Company,” “The Ladies,” and “The Clergy.” The steamer returned to Glasgow in the evening.”—Glasgow Herald, May 17, 1875

However, it was the reduction in the service to Inveraray that spurred the construction of a new saloon steamer for the direct sea route from Glasgow and Greenock, Rothesay and the Kyles of Bute to Loch Fyne and the ducal destination. A new company, the Glasgow and Inveraray Steamboat Co., was formed, and for its manager, the Company selected a known successful quantity with a sound knowledge of the traffic, Mr M T. Clark.

Inveraray Port in 1799 (Nattes)

Inveraray Quay around 1830 (Daniell)

Prior to 1809, Inveraray had no quay worthy of the description, but in that year, the collection of stones that had served as a landing place was extended and improved. The first steamboat arrived in July, 1815, and there was further development of the structure in 1821 to accommodate the regular calls made by the Dumbarton Castle and the new Inverary Castle. However, the pier was inaccessible at low tide and in 1836, the Burgh Council spent £1,200 to extend it, forming a slip that was accessible at all states of the tide and a harbour for sheltering fishing boats. Of the cost, £800 was provided by the fishery board and the remainder was split between the Duke of Argyle and the Burgh. This structure sufficed for the next forty years, but the prospect of increased tourist traffic with the introduction of the Lord of the Isles, spurred the Burgh Council to erect a new pier at a cost of £1,200 in 1877.

“Inveraray.—New Pier.—The Magistrates and Town Council of Inveraray opened the new pier for traffic on Tuesday evening. The steamer Fairy was engaged for the opening, and the Town Council stepped on board, along with the principal inhabitants of the burgh, and sailed round the Otter Buoy of the Newton, and then came back and landed at the new pier. On landing they were met by Mr Thomson of Gourock, the contractor, who formally conveyed the pier to the Provost, on behalf of the Town Council, in appropriate terms. Provost Macfarlan made a suitable reply. The “Health and happiness of the Magistrates and Town Council,” was then drunk on the pier. The Town Council adjourned to the Argyll Hotel to a sumptuous dinner. Provost Macfarlan was chairman, and Bailie Macpherson croupier. The Provost read letters of apology for absence from Sir George Home, Bart., Mr Wyllie, chamberlain, Dr Touch, and other gentlemen. The usual loyal and patriotic toasts were cordially pledged. Other toasts followed. The new pier reflects great credit on the Contractors, Messrs Thomson & Co.”—Glasgow Herald, June 7, 1877

“Inveraray.—Opening of new wharf—On Tuesday evening of last week this important addition to the harbour accommodation of Inveraray was formally opened for traffic by Provost Macfarlane, in presence of a large assemblage. Shortly after 7 p.m. the Provost, Magistrates, and other members of the Town Council, accompanied by most of the leading inhabitants, including number of ladies, proceeded on board the steamer Fairy, which, as well the new pier, was gay with bright coloured bunting. Having made the circuit of the bay the steamer landed her passengers on the wharf, which was crowded with spectators. The contractor (Mr Thomson of Gourock), who was accompanied by his indefatigable foreman on the work (Mr Bain), and Mr Ferguson, Clerk of Works to the Duke of Argyll, who had acted inspector, received the party on the pier. Mr Thomson then, addressing the representatives of the Corporation in a few pithy sentences, handed over the work as completed, and after acknowledging the uniform kindness and courtesy he had experienced at the hands of the municipal bodies, expressed the hope that the prosperity of the place would be greatly advanced by the new erection. The Provost, amid much cheering, declared the pier open for traffic, and congratulated the community on the increased facilities now given to the travelling public, the new wharf of Inveraray being, he believed, one of the best and strongest on the coast. He hoped it would be well patronised, and that thousands would be landed and embarked on it during the present season, and many seasons to come. (Loud applause) Bumpers were then handed round, and success drunk to the pier and the district. The Magistrates and a large party of gentlemen afterwards dined together in the Argyll Hotel, when a very pleasant evening was spent. The event has excited a great deal of interest in the town of Inveraray, and over a large district of the county; and with the greatly improved means now to be employed for the accommodation of parties visiting Lochfyneside, there seems every prospect of satisfactory results.”—Oban Times, June 16, 1877

The new steamer was launched in May, but there were complications in finishing the vessel.

“Launch of the river steamer Lord of the Isles.—At this season of the year no event in connection with the launches on the river excites greater interest than the launch of a new “floating palace” intended to ply on the waters of our beautiful river and firth. This season several new steamers have been built for the river traffic, all of which are models in their completeness, but the Lord of the Isles, launched yesterday by Messrs D. & W. Henderson, Meadowside, Partick, outrivals a them all. The world-famous Iona has hitherto and deservedly obtained premier place among the river steamers, and the owners of the Lord of the Isles, in determining upon a steamer to open up one of the finest tourist routes in the West of Scotland, wisely determined to imitate, if not to excel, the Iona in every particular. In many respects they have been successful, for a more handsome or better equipped passenger steamer it is scarcely possible to conceive. The Lord of the Isles is 246 feet in length between perpendiculars, 24 feet breadth of beam, and 8ft. 6in. depth of hold. The promenade deck is about 200 feet in length, and upon it will be fitted up a ticket office, &c. The main saloon is 50 feet in length and 16 in breadth, and in so far as plenishing and decoration is concerned, this apartment will be elegant in taste and luxurious in furnishing. The dining saloon, which is immediately underneath the main cabin, is 60 feet in length, and 22 feet broad, and dining accommodation will be provided for 100 persons. On the spar-deck a large and luxuriously fitted up smoking room has been arranged, while the steerage accommodation, both on deck and in the fore cabin, is of the most complete character. The galley is sufficiently large to prepare food for an unlimited number of persons; and as the steward’s department will be under the supervision of Mr David Sutherland, so long superintendent of Messrs Hutchesons’ Highland steamers, a sufficient guarantee is given that the cuisine will not be lacking. The speed of the handsomely modelled vessel is another important item, and the foresight of owners and builders has likewise been here fully developed. The steamer is to be supplied by the builders with a pair of diagonal oscillating engines of great power, and it is expected that the speed to be attained will be equal to twenty miles an hour. Steam steering gear, post office, lavatories, and all the other conveniences on board have been liberally provided, and internally a more complete steamer it is impossible to imagine.

“At the launch yesterday a numerous company assembled, and among others were Bailie Paul, Greenock; Mir William M‘Clure, Greenock, chairman of the company (which has been named the Inveraray Steamboat Company); Mr M‘Lean, Glasgow, chairman of the Lochgoil Company, Dr Laing, Andersonian University; Mr James Gilchrist, Greenock; Mr James M‘Lean, Greenock; the Messrs Henderson; Mr William Clark, artist; Mr Jas. E. Gilchrist, and Mr M. T. Clark, manager of the new company. The new steamer as she left the ways was gracefully christened by Miss M‘Clure. At the luncheon which followed, “Success to the Lord of the Isles” having been cordially pledged, Mr M‘Clure, in returning thanks, expressed regret at the unhappy dispute which had taken place between shipbuilders and their workmen on the Clyde, whereby the steamer had been somewhat delayed in completion, but he was gratified that the builders and engineers had been enabled so to forward the outfit of the vessel as to have her ready for taking her station before the end of June.

“Having said so much regarding the vessel, it is now necessary to detail her route. The present arrangement, we understand, is that the Lord of the Isles shall leave the steamboat quay, Greenock, every morning at 8.15 in connection with the train leaving Glasgow about 7.15, and after calling at Prince’s Pier will proceed direct to Kirn and Dunoon, thence to Wemyss Bay in time to take up passengers arriving from Glasgow per 8.15 train. From Wemyss Bay the steamer will proceed to Rothesay, thence through the Kyles of Bute, through Lochfine to Inveraray. The trip which embraces some of the loveliest scenery of the Western Highlands, especially that part of it which is at present almost unknown to the pleasure-seeking public, lying between Minard Castle, Furness, Otter Ferry, Strachur, on to Inveraray, will be accomplished from Glasgow in about five hours. Arriving at Inveraray, the tourist may either return with the steamer or take advantage of the coach which is to run in connection through the romantic scenery of Hell’s Glen to Lochgoilhead, where they can join the fine steamers Carrick or Windsor Castles, and arrive in Glasgow about seven p.m., or take coach for Dalmally, the terminus of the Callander and Oban Railway, and return by Tyndrum, Lochearnhead, Callander, Stirling, &c., arriving in Glasgow in the evening. Again, by coach to Tarbet, on Lochlomond, thence up the “Queen of Scottish Lakes” (to Balloch, thence by train to Glasgow, or by the Forth and Clyde Railway to the North. A suggestion (which will no doubt be taken up) has also been thrown out that coaches from Strachur might be established down the side of Loch Eck, via Whistlefield, to Kilmun or Dunoon, this being one of the most lovely and romantic tours in Scotland.

“The Lord of the Isles will be under command of Captain Robert Young, one of the most courteous and gentlemanly steamboat masters on the Clyde. The passengers will have the attention of Mr John M‘Lean, who has been appointed purser, and a complete staff of stewards and other deputy officers will insure every care and comfort being arranged for.”—Glasgow Herald, May 31, 1877

The strike, alluded to in the launch report, had its origins at the beginning of April when the shipwrights, responsible for much of the carpentry work in finishing the ship, struck for an increase in wages of 1d. an hour. In fact the shipwrights had been on strike in 1874 and had won this increase to 8d. an hour, but over the subsequent years, this had been eroded back to 7d. The Glasgow Shipwrights’ Society had suggested arbitration but the Clyde Shipbuilders’ Association had refused. The Masters had felt they were in a strong position as they had begun to add strike clauses to their contracts for ships that removed the pressure to settle strikes. In the middle of May, the Masters threatened a lock-out and this was implemented before the end of the month when large numbers of other trades were idled.

Fearing delays to the completion of the Lord of the Isles, at the end of May, the Glasgow & Inveraray Company petitioned the Sheriff of Lanarkshire to compel the shipyard to employ workmen to complete the ship to the usual standard and if they did not comply within 48 hours, to allow the Inveraray Company to employ workers to complete the ship themselves. The shipwrights indicated a willingness to do this but only if the gates of the yard were thrown open and wages advanced to the rates for which the men had struck. Messrs Henderson, the builders, pointed out that there was no time guarantee in the contract and that they had on hand between 62 and 74 foremen and apprentices working on the steamer. The Inveraray Company pointed out that the contract stipulated that the Messrs Henderson agreed to finishing the ship as rapidly as possible, and in order to do this would be obliged to employ “a competent and complete set of workmen.” The Sheriff dismissed the petition, and the decision was upheld on appeal.

Nevertheless, the steamer was sufficiently advanced to have trials on June 30th, and entered service in July with much of the internal appointments in an unfinished state.

“New route to the West Highlands—Glasgow and Inveraray via Wemyss Bay and Kyles of Bute.—The splendid new saloon steamer Lord of the Isles sails daily from Greenock (Custom House Quay) at 8.15 a.m., Princess Pier at 8.20 a.m., for Kirn, Dunoon, Wemyss Bay, Rothesay, Kyles of Bute and Inveraray, connecting with the undernoted trains at Wemyss Bay—from Glasgow (Bridge St.) via Wemyss Bay at 8.10 a.m.; from Edinburgh (Prince’s St.) via Caledon. Rail at 6.30 a.m. Returning from Inveraray at 2.15 p.m., and Rothesay about 5.15 p.m., for Wemyss Bay, Dunoon, Kirn, and Greenock, for special trains leaving Wemyss Bay at 5.50 p.m., for Glasgow, Edinburgh, and the South, and Greenock at 7.30 p.m., for Glasgow and the South. Passengers through this varied, picturesque, and magnificent scenery can have about an hour and a half ashore to view the many places of interest around Inveraray, the ancient capital of Argyllshire.

“Fares—return:—Edinburgh to Inveraray: 1st class and cabin, 16s. 0d.; 2nd class and cabin, 13s.0d.; 3rd class and steerage, 8s.6d.; Edinburgh to Kyles of Bute: 1st class and cabin, 14s. 0d.; 2nd class and cabin, 11s.0d.; 3rd class and steerage, 7s.6d.; Glasgow to Inveraray: 1st class and cabin, 7s. 6d.; 2nd class and cabin, 6s.6d.; 3rd class and steerage, 4s.6d.; Glasgow to Kyles of Bute: 1st class and cabin, 5s. 6d.; 2nd class and cabin, 4s.6d.; 3rd class and steerage, 3s.6d.; Greenock to Inveraray: cabin 5s. 6d.; steerage 3s. 6d.; Dunoon to Inveraray: cabin 4s. 6d.; steerage 3s. 0d.; Wemyss Bay to Inveraray: cabin 4s. 6d.; steerage 3s. 0d.; Rothesay to Inveraray: cabin 4s. 0d.; steerage 2s. 6d.; Kyles of Bute to Inveraray: cabin 3s. 0d.

“Circular tour tickets at moderate rates, issued for the round of Lochfine thence by coaches through the famed Hell’s Glen to Lochgoilhead, thence down Lochgoil and Lochlong, or by coaches by Lochawe to Dalmally Railway, for Glasgow, Edinburgh, and the South &c. For particulars see time tables, to be had at all railway stations, and on board steamers, and from M.T. Clark, 17 Oswald Street, Glasgow.”—Glasgow Herald, July 3, 1877

The suggestion of a Lock Eck tour connection appeared in a letter to the Glasgow Herald in April, 1877, before the Lord of the Isles had been launched.

“The new excursion to Inveraray.— Glasgow, 11th April, 1877. Sir,—I have noticed references made in your paper to the new summer day’s excursion to Inveraray per Lord of the Isles, returning by coach from St Catherines to Lochgoilhead; and though this is no doubt a beautiful route, and one calculated to make many Glasgowegians avail themselves of it, I would, through the medium of your columns, call the attention of the public, and especially the owners of the new steamer and the hotel-keepers of Dunoon, to another day’s excursion quite as fine as that to which reference has been made. I mean the round per Lord of the Isles to Inveraray and back by coach from Strachur, via Loch Eck, to Dunoon, which is one of the most beautiful driving routes in Scotland. It would be a double inducement for people to go by the Lord of the Isles if they knew that they would have a choice of two such coach roads as that through as Hell’s Glen and the less wild but more beautiful one, embracing the scenery of Loch Eck, and it ought certainly to add to the other attractions of this second Iona. Hoping that this may meet the eye of those interested in this new enterprise, and cause such a coach to be started from Dunoon when the new steamer commences,—I am, &c., A lover of scenery.

“P.S.—As I see there is to be a new pier at Strachur, the landing here by small boats will be avoided in future.”—Glasgow Herald, April 12, 1877

The Inveraray Company followed through with this suggestion and an order was placed with Messrs T. B. Seath for a small steamer to run on Loch Eck.

“A steamer for Loch Eck.—It is now said that the Glasgow and Inveraray Company intend put on Loch Eck a handsome screw steamer which will ply in connection with the magnificent vessel Lord of the Isles. Coaches will run at both ends of the loch, so that by this means a circular tour of completely novel and most attractive character will be established. When not engaged on her regular service in connection with the Lord of the Isles, the new screw steamer will make several trips per day for the convenience of living in the neighbourhood of Loch Eck. Greenock Advertiser, June 27, 1877

The beauties of Loch Eck (M’Geachie)

Loch Eck (M’Geachie)

Whistlefield and Loch Eck

“New tourists’ route to Inveraray via Loch Eck.—When the proprietors of the new steamer Lord of the Isles intimated their intention of placing that vessel on the Greenock and Inveraray station via the Kyles of Bute, a correspondent in the Herald drew attention to the beautiful district by Kilmun, Loch Eck, and Strachur on Lochfyne, as a tourists’ route in connection with that steamer. The directors of the steamboat company at once took up the suggestion, and we understand that at a meeting of the shareholders, held in Glasgow on Friday, it was unanimously agreed to give orders to build a saloon steamer capable of carrying about 150 passengers to ply on Loch Eck to connect with coaches which will be run between Dunoon, Kirn, Hunter’s Quay, Ardenadam, Kilmun, Strone, Blairmore, &c. The building of the steamer has been entrusted, we believe, to Messrs T. B. Seath & Co., Rutherglen, and the new vessel will be ready to take her station early next spring. The steamer will have a saloon extending nearly from bow to stern, and will be otherwise fitted up in the most approved style for the comfort of passengers.

“Loch Eck is pretty extensively known as being a large inland loch running for about eight miles between high mountain chains which rise about three miles above Kilmun, and terminate near Glensheillish, the estate of Mr R. W. Robertson, Greenock. On the eastern shores of the loch three piers or jetties are to be erected, one at each end of the loch and the third about the centre, near the well-known inn at Whistlefield. By this route pleasure-seekers will be able to leave Glasgow at a seasonable hour, and proceed by steamer to Holy Loch, where coaches will be in waiting to drive tourists to the foot of Loch Eck, through a district of great natural beauty, which is being greatly improved by the enterprising proprietor of Benmore and Bernice, Mr Duncan, of London. After passing the romantic glen of Glenmessen to the left, the coach road approaches the river Eck, and penetrating farther into the interior mountain groups of picturesque grandeur loom into view. At the foot of Benmore is situated the mansion, gardens, and policies of the hospitable proprietor of the estates. The drive from Kilmun to the foot of the loch will be accomplished in little over half an hour, and the time occupied in sailing the loch is expected to be about 45 minutes. The mountain scenery which rises on either side of the loch is of the most imposing and attractive character, and when seen under favourable circumstances is sure to captivate the lover of nature. Half-way up the loch Whistlefield is reached, where the traveller has the option of leaving the steamer and proceeding over the hills through Glenfinnart to Ardentinny on Lochlong, after a delightful drive of about five miles; or, continuing with the boat, he may proceed to the head of Loch Eck, where a landing is made opposite Glensheillish, where coaches will be in waiting to convey passengers to Strachur through a charming district of country, extending to about six miles, amid which flows the river Chur. At Strachur, a pretty village on Lochfyne, it is proposed to erect a new pier at Creggans for the convenience of the passenger traffic, which is likely to be developed. Already every house in the village is let this season. The whole time proposed to be occupied on the journey from Glasgow to Strachur will be about four hours. At the latter place the Lord of the Isles can be joined, and sailing up Lochfyne reach Inveraray about one o’clock. After being an hour and a quarter ashore, the Lord of the Isles may be rejoined, and proceeding down Lochfyne, through the Kyles of Bute to Wemyss Bay or Greenock, thence by rail to Glasgow or Edinburgh. Of course the journey can be reversed, passengers first proceeding with the Lord of the Isles to Inveraray, and return by Loch Eck.”—Glasgow Herald, July 23, 1877

Inverary from the south around 1880 (Washington Wilson)

Lord of the Isles off Inveraray

Drying her foresail at Inveraray (Washington Wilson)

At the end of the season, the Lord of the Isles was returned to the builders to be overhauled and properly finished to the level contracted. In February, she appeared for trials.

“The Lord of the Isles.—This magnificent saloon steamer yesterday had a trip with a select party on board, for the purpose of testing her engines The time during which she has lain up has been utilized for the perfecting of the vessel’s fittings and machinery, the result being a great improvement over the necessarily incomplete arrangements of last season. Having been placed again in the hands of her builders, the Messrs Henderson, the Lord of the Isles has been subjected to entire overhaul, and now sails with a steadiness which had not previously been attained, while the full speed is also very great. Leaving Prince’s Pier at noon yesterday the vessel steamed down the Firth, and while between the Cloch and Cumbrae Heads she sailed at the rate of 21 miles hour, several trials being made of her capabilities for swiftness. The weather kept better than might have been expected from the lowering appearance of the sky, and the trip was much enjoyed by those on board, for whose comfort every precaution had been taken. Luncheon and dinner were purveyed by Mr William Mackay, of the Imperial Restaurant, West Blackhall Street, in a style which left nothing to be desired, and on a scale more luxurious than “marine meals’’ usually assume. The Lord of the Isles returned to Greenock between four and five o’clock in the afternoon.”—Greenock Advertiser, February 2, 1878

In the meantime there was progress in the construction of the small screw steamer, originally intended to be named Lady of the Lake.

“The Lady of the Lake.—The Lady of the Lake, a new steamer which it to ply on Loch Eck in connection with the Lord of the Isles, is in advanced state, and is expected to be ready lor launching early in March. The steamer, which is being built the Loch Side by Mr T.B. Seath, Rutherglen, is about 80 feet long and 12 feet broad, and will accommodate 150 passengers. The piers on the loch are also in a forward state, as is also the new pier at Strachur, on Lochfyne. Arrangements are likewise being completed with coach proprietors for running ’busses to join the Loch Eck steamer from the Dunoon, Kilmun, and Strachur ends, and we believe this new tourists’ route will, when opened, prove of the most attractive in the Western Highlands. It is contemplated to build a large new hotel at Whistlefield.”—Greenock Advertiser, February 2, 1878

“The steamer Lord of the Isles.—Last summer, when this fine steamer was placed on the Inveraray route, it will be remembered she was taken over from her builders, Messrs Henderson, Partick, in a very incomplete state, owing to the lock-out which had taken place on the Clyde. At the end of the season, however, she was again placed in the builders’ hands, and during the past two or three months she has undergone a complete overhaul of machinery, hull, &c. The vibration complained of last season has been greatly if not altogether cured, the smoke stalks have been lengthened three feet, while the engines have undergone a complete overhaul. Yesterday the Lord of the Isles proceeded on a preliminary trip. Between the Cloch and Cumbrae Heads a speed equal to 21 miles an hour was easily maintained. The Lady of the Lake, a new steamer which is to ply on Loch Eck in connection with the Lord of the Isles, is in an advanced state, and is expected to be ready for launching early in March. The steamer, which is being built on the Loch side by Mr T. B. Seath, Rutherglen, is about 80 feet long and 12 feet broad, and will accommodate 150 passengers. The piers on the loch are also in a forward state, as is also the new pier at Strachur, on Lochfyne. Arrangements are likewise being completed with coach proprietors for running ’buses to join the Loch Eck steamer from the Dunoon, Kilmun and Strachur ends, and we believe this new tourists’ rout will, when opened, prove of the most attractive in the Western Highlands. It is contemplated to build a large new hotel at Whistlefield Glasgow Herald, February 2, 1878

In the event, the new steamer was named Fairy Queen. It is in this article that the story that Napier’s steamer Aglaia was scuttled in the loch first appears. As recounted earlier, the best evidence points to the Aglaia being sold in 1835. She may have been scuttled and refloated.

Fairy Queen in 1879 (Valentine)

An early view of Fairy Queen

“The Loch Eck new steamer Fairy Queen—Yesterday, there was launched from the banks of Loch Eck a very handsome screw steamer, which has been built by Messrs T. B. Seath & Co, Rutherglen, for the Glasgow and Inveraray Steamboat Company, and which is intended to ply regularly on the loch in connection with the favourite steamer Lord of the of Isles. Half a century ago the late Mr David Napier placed. a small paddle steamer on this loch, but her career was very short, for some malicious persons scuttled her; and a few years ago some fishers while drawing the loch lifted the stern post of a boat, which is believed to have been a portion of this early steamer. The natural beauties of Loch Eck are at present unknown to the general public, and the owners of the Lord of the Isles, being desirous of opening up attractive circular routes through the West Highlands, resolved to place a high class steamer on the loch, and thereby establish a chain of communication between Loch Fyne, Holy Loch, and the Clyde. Leaving Glasgow or Edinburgh in the morning, pleasure-seekers will this summer be able to join the Lord of the Isles at Greenock and proceed to Kirn or Dunoon, where coaches will be in waiting, and after a drive of about eight miles. partly through the beautiful policics of Benmore (the seat of Mr Duncan), Loch Eck is reached. Here the Fairy Queen will be in waiting, and after a sail of six miles through some of the finest Highland scenery to the head of the loch, coaches will again be in readiness, and after another magnificent drive of about eight miles along the side of the river Chur, the attractive village of Strachur, on Loch Fyne, is reached. Passengers can then join the Lord of the Isles and sail up Loch Fyne to Inveraray. After spending an hour ashore, tourists rejoin the Lord of the Isles and return by the Kyles of Bute. The route may be reversed at the option of the tourist. The Fairy Queen, which was a launched yesterday, is 70 feet in length, having a saloon deck, and she will be licensed to carry upwards of 150 passengers, and will steam about 12 miles an hour. The weather yesterday proved most unpropitious, nevertheless the event created interest in the district, and many persons travelled long distances to witness the launch. Among those present were Mr Duncan of Benmore; Mr Willism M‘Clure, Greenock, chairman of the company; Mr M‘Lean, writer, Glasgow; Mr Jas. Gilchrist, Mrs Giichrist, and a the Misses Gilchrist, Greenock; Mr Wm. Clark, Greenock;Mr T. B. Seath and Miss Seath, Langbank; Mr and Mrs Clark, Glasgow; Mr Alex. Campbell, Glasgow; Mr J. F. Finlay, Greenock; Mr James Campbell, Greenock; Mr George Herriot, Board of Trade Surveyor; &c., &c. The launch was successfully accomplished, Miss Gilchrist gracefully performing the christening ceremony. Steam being up, a short trial of the engines afterwards took place, and the sailing qualities of the handsome little steamer were most successfully tested. The engines were supplied by Messrs Alex. Campbell & Sons, Anderston Quay Glasgow. The guests being assembled in the saloon, cake and wine were served, when success to the Fairy Queen was heartily pledged. During the afternoon Mr Duncan entertained the directors and visitors to luncheon at Benmore House. It is expected that the new route will be formally opened towards the end of May,”—Glasgow Herald, March 1, 1878

“The Loch Eck route.—The screw steamer Fairy Queen was tried on Loch Eck on Saturday in presence of Mr Clark manager of the Lochgoil Steamboat Company, and several of the directors. She proceeded from the Kilmun end of the loch to Strachur, and, although it was blowing strong, she accomplished more than was expected, running the distance in 40 minutes. At present there are three piers on the loch, one at each end, and one at Whistlefield, but the directors are about to erect a fourth at Coila. When this new route is opened, passengers will be able to reach Inveraray from Glasgow in about three hours.”—Greenock Advertiser, March 11, 1878

In May, the new route was opened to the public.

“The Lord of the Isles.—This magnificent steamer commenced on Monday her second season on the route which she was the first to occupy for purely pleasure purposes, and which she has already rendered so highly popular. As stated in Monday’s issue, the Lord of the Isles has been in the hands of her builders, Messrs Henderson, since she was laid off at the end of last season, and the result has been that she appeared on the route yesterday with whatever defects that had come under notice remedied, and fitted and furnished in quite a superb style. To mention particularly no other improvement, there is a complete absence of the vibration which was complained of last year; but, generally speaking, than the Lord of the Isles in her new trim no more comfortable and better apportioned steamer could be found, at all events outside the Clyde fleet. Taking this circumstance, and the attractive station which the vessel occupies into account, it is not surprising that yesterday, the first day of the season, a large number of excursionists found themselves on board this beautiful craft of the Glasgow and Inveraray Steamboat Company. In addition to the ordinary passengers a considerable company of ladies and gentlemen, invited by the directors to enjoy the opening trip, were also present on the occasion. Amongst these we noticed Mr Wm. M‘Clure, Greenock; Mr Wm. M‘Lean, of Plantation; ex-Deacon-Convener Gilchrist, Glasgow; Sir George Home, Inveraray; Sheriff Smith, Greenock; Sheriff Balfour, Airdrie; Mr Cowan, director of the Caledonian Railway; Mr J. T. Caird, Greenock; Mr Seath, Rutherglen; Mr Gilchrist, Greenock; Mr Clark, artist, Greenock; Mr John M‘Clure, Glasgow; and Mr John Henderson and Mr H. R. Robson, of Messrs D. & W. Henderson & Co., builders of the Lord of the Isles. At this time of day we need not describe the route between Wemyss Bay and Inveraray. The varied beauties of Rothesay Bay, Kyles of Bute. and Lochfyne are familiar to most people in the West of Scotland, and hardly any description would convey to the minds of those who have not personally made the acquaintance of these scenes the faintest idea of their attractions. Fortunately the day was a beautiful one, and the scenery in all the budding freshness of this early season could be seen and enjoyed to the utmost. The Lord of the Isles arrived at Inveraray against a pretty strong head wind shortly after one o’clock. Here the excursionists had about an hour on shore, and the time was chiefly occupied in visiting the policies of Inveraray Castle. On returning on board dinner was served, Mr Sutherland, the steward, giving a good account of the capabilities of the department over which he presides. Wemyss Bay was reached in time for the six o’clock train for Glasgow, and amongst the excursionists only one opinion was expressed of the day’s outing,—the sooner they had an opportunity of repeating the pleasure the better they would be pleased. In connection with the Lord of the Isles, the company have this season established a circular tour by way of Loch Eck. They have placed a handsome little steamer—the Fairy Queen—on the loch, and the stages between Dunoon and the loch, and the loch and Strachur, on Lochfyne, are accomplished by means of coaches, which have been built for the purpose. Yesterday a portion of the passengers, taking advantage of the opportunity of seeing a very pretty piece of country, left the Lord of the Isles on her return passage at Strachur, again joining her at Dunoon.”—Glasgow Herald, May 22, 1878

“New tourist route‑Glasgow, Inveraray and Oban via Loch Eck, by splendid saloon steamer Lord of the Isles from Greenock at 8.15 a.m., to Dunoon (train from Glasgow Bridge Street at 7.30 a.m.); or steamer Vivid to Kilmun (train from Bridge Street at 7.35 a.m.); thence by coaches to Inverchapel, steamer Fairy Queen on Loch Eck, coaches to Strachur, steamer to Inveraray, and coaches to Oban. Returning from Oban at 7.30 a.m., from Inveraray at 2.15 p.m., and from Strachur at 2.30 p.m., as above for Greenock, Glasgow, and the South. Also by steamer Carrick Castle from Greenock at 10.45 a.m. for Blairmore, or steamer Sultana from Greenock at 10.45 a.m. for Dunoon, train from Bridge Street at 10.00 a.m. (Passengers per Sultana land at Kirn, thence by coaches from Blairmore, Dunoon, and Kirn to Inverchapel, steamer Fairy Queen on Loch Eck, and coaches to Strachur; returning from Strachur at 2.30 p.m., as above, for Greenock, Glasgow, and the South. For full particulars as to circular tours, fares &c., see time bills to be had on board steamers; at railway stations; from George Stirling, Dunoon; John Rodger Inveraray; George Buchanan, General Coach Office, Oban. M.T. Clark, manager, 17, Oswald Street, Glasgow.”—Glasgow Herald, August 30, 1878

At the end of the 1879 season, the Fairy Queen caught fire and was badly damaged.

“Burning of the Fairy Queen on Loch Eck.—Intelligence reached Inveraray yesterday that the steamer Fairy Queen belonging to the Glasgow and Inveraray Steamboat Company, while moored at the North End of Loch Eck, was on Thursday night almost entirely destroyed by fire, nothing remaining but the iron work. It was customary for the crew, with the exception of the captain, to sleep on board, and it is supposed that the men were on board when the fire broke out. Since the Lord of the Isles was withdrawn for the season two weeks ago the Fairy Queen has been making trips on the Loch with picnic parties, and she was to have gone with a party yesterday. This however was to have been one of her last trips for the year. The Loch Eck tourist route, it will be remembered, was only recently opened and the Fairy Queen commenced to ply on the Loch so lately as last year. She ran in connection with the coaches from Dunoon and Strachur, which run again in connection with the Inveraray steamer Lord of the Isles; and she was built by message T. B. Seath & Co., Rutherglen, her engines being supplied by Messrs A. Campbell & Sons, Anderson Quay, Glasgow. Her length was 70 feet and her breadth of beam 12 feet she had a raised deck of 40 feet in length, covering two small saloons—one in the front for ladies and one in the stern for gentlemen. She was authorized to carry 150 passengers; and she was one of the most comfortable, while she was one of the prettiest little passenger steamers afloat. The Fairy Queen’s career, though short, was a very popular one, and many people who, during the last season, had the pleasure of enjoying a sail in her, and from her deck witnessing the splendid scenery of the district, will hear of her fate with great regret. The loss is fully covered by insurance.”—Glasgow Herald, October 4, 1879

At the end of January, 1880, it was reported that Messrs T. B. Seath were starting reconstruction of the little steamer, and she was again available for the start of the season that year. In fact the machinery was encompassed in a new hull, longer at, 79½ feet. and broader, at 12½ feet.

In June of 1881, the Glasgow & Inveraray Company experimented with a start from the Broomielaw, rather than Greenock. The new rival steamer, Messrs MacBrayne’s Columba, like the Iona before her, sailed from the Bridge Wharf at 7 a.m., and perhaps the owners felt that a start from the heart of Glasgow would raise the profile of the Inveraray route. The Lord of the Isles sailed at 7.15 a.m. from Bridge Wharf for part of the season, calling at Partick and Bowling. The following year, the sailing time was changed to 7.20 a.m., and in 1883, it was pushed earlier till 6.45 a.m. This earlier time was not a success, and in 1884, the time was again changed to 7.20 a.m. Improved train connections from Greenock, both for the outward and return journeys led to a dispensing of the call at Wemyss Bay in 1885.

Fairy Queen on Loch Eck (Poulton)

Fairy Queen at the near of the Loch

Inveraray Cross and Castle (Ritchie)

Tour coach at the Cot House Inn, Kilmun (Ritchie)

The Loch Eck tour maintained its popularity for many years. In large measure this can be ascribed to the building of a pier at Strachur. More importantly, the connection at Strachur with the Lord of the Isles, a modern saloon steamer that could sail the distance between Dunoon and Strachur by the Kyles of Bute in roughly the same time taken on the route by Loch Eck, made the project successful.

The old Lord with the Columba at Rothesay

Although the Lord of the Isles was well equipped for passengers, her deck saloon was narrow, with passages around the outside, and she had been eclipsed in 1878 by the Columba, sailing to Tarbert and Ardrishaig, with saloons, the full breadth of the hull. The new railway steamers introduced in 1889 also had full breadth saloons, and this became the standard for new construction. In 1891, the old Lord of the Isles was replaced by a new and even more comfortable steamer of the same name, with saloons stretching the full breadth of the hull. The Loch Eck tour was further enhanced.

“Launch of the Lord of the Isles.—Messrs D. & W. Henderson & Co. launched on Saturday afternoon from their shipbuilding yard at Meadowside, Partick, the Lord of the Isles, a splendid paddle steamer of 450 tons, built to the order of the Glasgow and Inveraray Steamboat Company (Limited). The dimensions are:—length, 255 feet; breadth, 25 feet 6 inches; depth, 8 feet 6 inches. The vessel is to replace the old Clyde favourite of the same name, which was built by Messrs Henderson in 1877. The old steamer has been sold to the Victoria Steamboat Association, London—who own another fast Clyde boat is the Glen Rosa—and will in future ply on the Thames between London and Harwich. The fact that the vessel on her new route would require to sail under the London bridges necessitated several important alterations, The old funnels have been replaced by telescopic ones, and the mast has been cut to swing forward and rest upon a crutch. There is a complete installation of electric light on board. When the old steamer was launched 15 years ago it was considered almost an impossibility to cover the 228 miles between Glasgow and Inveraray in a single day; at all events, it was believed that, taking the dozen stoppages into account, the journey could only be accomplished by a vessel steaming at the then exceptional speed of 20 miles an hour. The first Lord of the Isles was designed to accomplish the task. Everybody knows how admirably she fulfilled the expectations of her builders, her speed on her concluding run last autumn being at least equal to what it was is her earlier days. The steamer launched on Saturday generally resembles in appearance her predecessor. She is after the same model, though longer and broader; and to all the old advantages have been added innumerable improvements calculated to increase the comfort of passengers. The most apparent difference is in the construction of the saloon house. In the earlier vessel the saloons were in deck-houses, having a passage round the side. The saloon of the new vessel, however, is a continuation of the ship’s side, and there is no passage, the whole breadth of the main deck being included in the apartment. The size of the saloon and the extent of the promenade deck are consequently very much greater than in the old ship. Another improvement has been effected on the interior of the saloon, the ladies’ cabin being placed at the entrance instead of at the upper end. The removal of that obstruction has enabled the builders to place right round the saloon windows of an exceptionally large size, ensuring by that means that passengers will obtain from the inside as uninterrupted a view of the scenery on the route as may be enjoyed from the upper deck. The saloon is a large and tastefully decorated apartment, finished in white and gold. The furniture is of black walnut, upholstered in terra cotta frieze velvet. For the convenience of passengers there are several writing tables. On either side of the entrance are ladies’ and gentlemen’s toilet rooms, and forward of the latter, on the starboard side, is the cloak room. The lighting and ventilation of the dining room, which is situated on the lower deck, received the special attention of the builders. To give the place a cool appearance, the floor is of polished hardwood. Gannaway’s patent system of ventilation provides a constant supply of fresh air. The upholstery is crimson morocco, and the furniture of black walnut. Hand-painted floral designs adorn the side panels of the room. Elegantly-designed revolving chairs are fitted at the tables. At the fore end on the starboard side is situated the pantry, which is replete with every convenience. The galley is on the main deck above the pantry, and the dishes are sent down by means of an elevator. On the port side are the refreshment bar and bar-room. The accommodation for steerage passengers consist of a handsome saloon and dining cabin. The officers and crew are berthed forward under the main deck. The promenade deck extends about three-fourths of the vessel’s length. Between the paddle boxes is a handsome teak-house, one section of which has been fitted as a room for the captain, and the other as ticket and post office. The engines, which will be supplied by the builders, are of a similar design to those of the old Lord of the Isles and the Ivanhoe. They are larger, however, and will develop greater horse-power. In their construction everything has been done to secure lightness with strength. The paddle wheels, with the exception of the floats, are entirely of steel; and in many parts of the engines, brass and copper have been substituted for cast-iron, and steel for malleable iron. Two large haystack boilers will supply steam sufficient to propel the vessel at a high rate of speed. Messrs Alley and MacLellan’s “Sentinel” steam steering gear has been fitted on the starting platform in the engine room, and will be worked from the bridge by a controlling wheel. The windlass which also works the pump is by Messrs G. & J. M‘Onie, Greenock. A steel hawser has been substituted for the usual chain cable. The launch took place shortly after one o’clock. Miss Mary Maclean, daughter of Mr. William Maclean, of Plantation, gracefully performing the christening ceremony.”—Glasgow Herald, April 27, 1891

“New steamer Lord of the Isles.—Opening cruise.— Preparatory to taking up her sailings for the season, the new steamer Lord of the Isles went yesterday to Inveraray on a trial trip. The new steamer, though generally resembling in appearance her predecessor on the route, is a longer and broader boat, and to all the advantages of the old vessel have been added everything of a later date which can possibly add to the comfort of passengers. The dimensions are:—length 255 ft.; breadth, 25 ft. 6 in.; depth. 8 ft. 6 in. In the construction of the new vessel the old model has in one important respect being departed from, the whole breadth of the main deck being included in the saloon the size of the saloon and the extent of the promenade deck are consequently very much greater than in the old ship. The removal of the ladies cabin from the after end to the entrance of the saloon has enabled the builders to effect another important improvement. Windows of an exceptionally large size have been placed right round the saloon, so that passengers may obtain from the inside as uninterrupted a view of the scenery on the route as can be enjoyed from the upper deck. In the apartment itself, which is tastefully decorated in white and gold, the furniture is of black walnut upholstered in terra cotta frieze velvet. For the convenience of passengers there are several writing tables. On either side of the entrance are ladies and gentlemen’s toilet rooms, and forward of these on the starboard side is the cloak room. The lighting and ventilation of the dining room, which is situated on the lower deck, received the special attention of the builders. The floor is of polished hardwood, and to render the apartments as cool as possible a continuous supply of fresh air is provided by a patent system of ventilation. Hand-painted floral designs adorn the side panels of the room. The furniture is of black walnut, and the upholstery in crimson morocco. Elegantly designed revolving chairs are fitted at the tables. A handsome saloon and dining cabin have been set apart for the accommodation of steerage passengers. The promenade deck extends about three-fourths of the vessel’s length. Between the paddle boxes on this deck, a handsome teak-house has been erected, one section of which has been set apart for the use of Captain Downie, and the other to be used as ticket and post office. The engines which are of the diagonal oscillating surface-condensing type, are similar in design to those supplied by Messrs Henderson to the old Lord of the Isles and the Ivanhoe. They are larger, however, and of greater power the cylinders are each 48 in. in diameter and a stroke 5 ft. 6 in., and making 48 revolutions a minute they indicate 2440 h.p. In the construction of the machinery everything has been done to secure lightness with strength. The paddle wheels with the exception of the floats are entirely of steel; and in many parts of the engines, brass and copper have been substituted for cast, and steel for malleable iron. Two large haystack boilers supply steam at a pressure of 50 lb. to the square inch. The trial trip yesterday was a most successful one. The steamer left the Broomielaw at eight o’clock, and proceeded direct to Prince’s Pier, Greenock, where a large proportion of those who had accepted the invitation of the owners to be present on the inaugural cruise came on board. As the steamer passed down the Firth the dulness of the morning gave place to sunshine, and the weather during the day was of the most brilliant description. At Gourock, where the next stop was made, the remainder of the guests came on board. Rothesay was reached shortly after ten o’clock. From that point to the head of Lochfyne the qualities of the new boat were tested as severely as was deemed advisable in all the circumstances. The results were nevertheless most satisfactory, the best passage of the old Lord of the Isles being reduced by no less than 20 minutes. The easy manner in which the vessel was managed was, in the opinion of Captain Downie, largely due to Messrs Alley and MacLellan’s steam steering gear. The Lord of the Isles is the first river steamer to be fitted with that appliance. On the return journey dinner was served in the dining room saloon Mr. Maclean, chairman of the Glasgow and Inveraray Steamboat Company, who presided, in proposing “Success to the Lord of the Isles,” said that it was just 15 years since the company’s first steamer opened the Glasgow and Inveraray route. Prior to that time it was deemed almost impossible to build a vessel which should be able to cover the 228 miles between Glasgow and inveraray conveniently in a single day. At all events it was believed that if it was to be done a steamer of more than usually great speed would be required. The old Lord of the Isles was built to accomplish that task, and everybody knew how well she did it. (Applause.) When it was resolved to build a new steamer in place of the old Lord of the Isles, the directors were so thoroughly satisfied with the work of the Messrs Henderson that it was unanimously agreed to place the order for the new boat with that firm. (Applause.) That day all were witnesses how admirably the builders had succeeded in the construction of a worthy successor to the old boat. The speed of the new Lord of the Isles was far in excess of that attained by the former vessel. (Applause.) Mr. John Polson gave “The Builders.” As marine architects, he said, Messrs Henderson stood at the top of the tree. They had not built any warships it was true, but they excelled in the production of vessels to promote the trade and commerce of the country and the pleasure and profit of mankind. (Applause.) Mr. John Henderson replied. The builders, he said, felt honored in receiving the order for the new steamer, the more so because the entire details had been left to themselves. The only stipulation that was made was that the vessel should exceed the speed of the old ship by half an knot per hour on the run from Rothesay to Inveraray. It was satisfactory alike to builders and owners that she had more than accomplished that. (Applause.)”—Glasgow Herald, May 21, 1891

Lord of the Isles of 1891 (Adamson)

The new Lord of the Isles at Inveraray

Lord of the Isles later had her  promenade deck extended to the bow

Disgorging passengers at Inveraray

The daily race with Columba, leaving Rothesay

Racing up the Kyles of Bute

Advertisement for the tour

Tour map showing the connections to Inveraray

Approaching Tighnabruaich on the way to Inveraray

At Strachur (Valentine)

On the return at Strachur (Valentine)

Coaches for the Loch Eck Tour at Strachur

Whistlefield Hotel

Fairy Queen (Stengel)

Loch Eck tour coach

Benmore House

Coaches at the Cot House Bridge

Cot House Bridge

The tour had long dispensed with the services of the small steamer Fairy for the Strachur connection and Fairy was now used as the Inveraray and St Catherine’s ferry by the Inveraray Steam Ferry Co., Ltd.. Now, almost thirty years old, the vessel was in poor condition and was condemned at the end of 1892. The lease of the ferry was advertised.

“Burgh of Inveraray.—The ferry-house and ferry from Inveraray to St Catherine’s, belonging to the Burgh of Inveraray, will be let from the 28th May next. The Tennant, in addition to the sailing boat and pinnace, will be required to provide a paddle steamer of the following dimensions, viz., 65 feet by 13 feet by 6 feet 6 inches, or thereby, which must have a passenger certificate, all to the satisfaction of the Magistrates and Council. Offers to be lodged with A. Henderson, Town-Clerk, on or before 11th February next. The highest or any offer may not be accepted.— Town Clerk’s Office, Inveraray, 18th January, 1893.”—Glasgow Herald, January 20, 1893

Apparently there were no suitable tenders for the lease and the order for the steamer was placed with Messrs Cumming of Port Dundas towards the end of March by

“Mr D. M. Cumming, Blackhill Dock, launched from his yard on Saturday a steel paddle steamer, 61ft. 6in. by 13ft. by 6ft. 6in. moulded, built to the order of the Town Council of Inveraray for thei! paassger traffic between Inveraray and St Catherine’s. The engines, which are diagonal compound surface condensing, are being supplied by Messrs Lees, Anderson & Co. During the construction of the vessel she was superintended by Mr James Donaldson, marine surveyor, GIasgow. On leaving the ways she was named Fairy by Miss Cumming.”—Glasgow Herald, June 19, 1893

The new Fairy at St Catherine’s

Fairy off Inveraray

In the early years of the 1900s, the advent of the turbine steamers, sailing to Campbeltown and, after 1905, to Inveraray greatly affected the business of the Glasgow and Inveraray Company as the Lord of the Isles could not compete for speed and smoothness with the King Edward. The popularity of the Inveraray route by Lochgoilhead, also began to wane. In 1909, the Lochgoil and Inveraray Companies were amalgamated under the name of the Lochgoil & Inveraray Steamboat Co., Ltd., consolidating the businesses managed by Mr M. T. Clark. The two remaining steamers, Edinburgh Castle (Windsor Castle had been sold in 1900) and Lord of the Isles continued to struggle on the Lochgoil and Inverary routes, while Fairy Queen remained on Loch Eck. Mr Clark died on New Year’s day, 1911, and in 1912, the Edinburgh Castle and Lord of the Isles were transferred to Turbine Steamers Ltd who continued the Loch Eck tour in connection with the King Edward.

An early view of King Edward at Inveraray

King Edward at Inveraray

An unequal struggle:

Lord of the Isles first from Rothesay

In Rothesay Bay

On King Edward, bound for Inveraray

King Edward first at Inveraray with Lord of the Isles standing off

Lord of the Isles at Inveraray while King Edward sails of cruise to the head of Loch Fyne

King Edward and Fairy

King Edward and Fairy

A tinker piper on Inveraray Quay

Occasional calls were scheduled at some of the smaller quays on upper Loch Fyne; here at Crarae.

Crarae Pier

Crarae Quarry

Strachur Pier

King Edward at Strachur (Spencer)

Passengers from King Edward boarding Loch Eck coaches at Strachur (Spencer)

The turbine steamer King Edward sailed from Princes Pier at 9 a.m., calling at Gourock and Dunoon from where passengers for the Loch Eck tour proceeded by the coaches and Fairy Queen to Strachur, again meeting the King Edward that had meantime called at Rothesay and Tighnabruaich, to continue to Inveraray where the arrival was scheduled for 1.15 p.m. In subsequent years, the times were brought forward to accommodate the railway timetables.

Queen Alexandra at Strachur on her way to Inveraray in 1922 (Valentine)

Queen Alexandra at Inveraray (Spencer)

Queen Alexandra at Inveraray (Spencer)

The pier turnstile at Inveraray (Spencer)

Cars for the Loch Eck Tour (Spencer)

Queen Alexandra passing Minard

Queen Alexandra at Strachur on her return sailing (Spencer)

Fairy Queen

On board Fairy Queen, 1921

The tour was suspended during the first world war and after the armistice and the return of the steamers from war duties, it was Queen Alexandra that was the primary vessel on the Inveraray route, connecting with the Loch Eck tour. Motor coaches replaced the four-in-hand coaches, and by the middle of the decade, with better roads along the lochside, the Fairy Queen was passed-by and eventually withdraw in 1926. At this time, the pier at Strachur was in a poor state and the inevitable change, to take the tour from Dunoon to Inveraray, by way of Loch Eck side, entirely by road, returning on the new King George V, or vice versa became the norm. Strachur Pier was closed for two years but repairs were made, and it reopened in 1929. However, the traffic did not return and the reprieve did not last long; the pier closed in 1935.

King George V at Inveraray (Spencer)

King George V at Strachur (Valentine)

“John Clark, Loch Eck.—Famous old stage coach driver.—By one who knew him.—The driver of the first four-in-hand stagecoach, which journeyed for many years from Dunoon on the famous Loch Eck tour, has passed away at the ripe old age of eighty-two years the person of Mr John Clark. Well known in Glasgow and the West of Scotland, he was looked on by tourists from all parts of the world as a character, and “snaps” of John, with his scarlet coat and top hat, will still adorn the albums of holiday-makers of a generation ago. In his younger days Mr Clark drove a coach between Greenock and Ayr, and was wont to boast that he drove the last stagecoach on this route, when this mode of travelling was put out of existence by the advent of the railways. He next journeyed to Crieff, where he worked for two seasons, leaving that district to enter the service of the Glasgow and Inveraray Steamship Company, the owners of the first Lord of the Isles.

“Handled the “Ribbons” on Loch Eck.—Under the management of Mr M. T. Clark, the Loch Eck tour was re-established (it was inaugurated by David Napier in 1828), and John Clark handled the “ribbons” until motor cars came into favour, and the romantic-looking four-in-hand was dispensed with. Mr Clark was next engaged at Dunoon Pier in connection with baggage and cargo, a position from which he retired about six years ago. An interesting raconteur, Mr Clark delighted in telling of his experiences “in the good old days.” One of his recollections was of the last prize fight to take place in the West Scotland with bare fists. This took place on the estate of Hafton, overlooking Kirn, and hundreds of spectators from Gourock, Greenock, and Port- Glasgow were present. The contest was gory, and feeling rose high. The mob commenced to get out of hand, and there was every prospect of a riot when the police interfered, and the crowd dispersed hurriedly to their various odd craft drawn up on the shore. The famous old pioneer driver will missed by many.”—Sunday Post, May 30, 1926

The old Fairy was replaced by a motor-boat connection to St Catherine’s in 1913

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