The picturesque ruin of Carrick Castle at the mouth of Loch Goil has attracted visitors over the years. Hugh Macdonald in his classic book on the Clyde published in 1857, Days at the Coast, mentions the grandeur of the surroundings and the antiquity of the site. The photograph below by Annan of Glasgow comes from an edition of his book from 1868.
“As the good steamer continues to churn her way, a gentler and a more interesting picture floats into our ken. On the left, we find the mountains standing apart as it were, and leaving a sort of tiny valley with a few level acres of green in its breast, and a picturesque old castle projecting into the margin of the loch. This is Carrick Castle, an ancient seat of the Dunmore family, but which, according to one tradition, was erected by the Danes, and by another, by Robert the Bruce, when he was Earl of Carrick. We suspectthe latter supposition has been originated by the Ayrshire title of the Bruce; but the name of Carrick or Craig (a Celtic word, signifying a rock) is of common occurrence in the Highlands, and, indeed, over Scotland generally. The existence of the castle can be positively traced to the end of the fifteenth centurybut there is reason to believe that it is of much older date. Carrick Castle is built upon a rock of gentle elevation, and which at one period was surrounded by water. It consists principally of one large tower, of an oblong and somewhat irregular figure. In length it is 66 feet, by 88 in breadth, and 64 in height. The walls in some places are from seven to eight feet in thickness. In its days of strength the castle was defended on the landward side by a drawbridge, and as this was the only way in which it could be approached, it must have been pretty safe from attack. Between the castle walls and the sea there was a level space protected by a rampart, and capable of accommodating about 1,000 men, sothat maritime marauders were likely to have met a somewhat warm reception if, by any chance, they should have been tempted to invade its precincts. Thus protected, Carrick Castle, previous to the invention of gunpowder, must indeed have been all but impregnable. The days of foray and feud, however, are happily long past, and under the silent siege o f time—a conqueror whom none may withstand—Carrick is now a dreary and deserted ruin. The ivy is climbing freshly over its walls, and as we pass we can trace the branches of some superincumbent trees, the rustling warders of decay, nodding mournfully over the weather- beaten battlements. What was once a terror and a defiance hasnow become a mere thing of beauty, a silent invitation to musing melancholy, a subject to win the gaze of the painter, or a theme over which the wandering poet might love to dream. Yet, all tenantless save by the crannying winds as itis,wewould not that the ancient castle were away. Lochgoil, all lovely as it is, would be less lovely if that relic of other days were absent. It forms one of the finest, one of the most striking of its landscape features; while it lends an element of sentiment to its wild and varied beauties, which increases their interest, and doubly deepens their influence on the mind.”—Hugh Macdonald, Days at the Coast.
Burnside Cottages, Carrick Castle
Corriemonachan, Carrick Castle
The hamlet surrounding the castle lies in the estate of Glenfinart House and it was the decision to feu the ground for holiday villas that prompted the local landowner to construct a pier for £900.
“The new pier at Carrick Castle.—The new pier near Carrick Castle, at the mouth of Lochgoil, is nearly completed, and the steamer Carrick Castle has called at it this week. The pier has been constructed General Sir John Douglas of Glenfinart, Ardentinny, who is proprietor of the land near the pier. The addition of sixty feet to the old pier at Inveraray will be completed next week. The addition to the pier has been made to accomodate the steamer Lord of the Isles, now building by the Messrs Henderson at Partick.”— Greenock Telegraph, May 12, 1877
The official opening was on Thursday, May 24, 1877.
“Opening of a pier at Carrick Castle.—A handsome timber pier at Carrick Castle, Lochgoil, was formally opened yesterday in presence of the superior, Major-General Sir John Douglas, of Glenfinart; Lady Elizabeth Douglas, Rev. Mr Craig, Ardentinny; Mr John Turner, Mr James Keyden, Glasgow, factor to Sir John; Mr James Stewart, and Mr M‘Tavish. When the first steamer from Glasgow arrived at the pier, a goodly number, including the company just named, disembarked. Each was provided with a new penny, and, headed by Sir John, passed through the wicket and paid his coin, the pence so collected being placed in an antique casket, and presented to Lady Elizabeth as a remembrance of the event. Luncheon was laid out on tables in the field near the ancient ruin, and after the usual loyal and patriotic toasts had been disposed of, the health of the lord and lady of the manor was proposed, the gallant officer acknowledging the compliment. The other toasts were “Success to the New Pier;” “The Builder, Mr Barrie, contractor, Sandbank;” “Mr Keyden, the factor” and “The Feuars.” The various speakers expressed the belief that the construction of the pier would induce gentlemen in Glasgow, Paisley, Greenock, and other towns to take feus along the shore, and that in this way there would soon be another rising watering place in the Firth of Clyde. The pier is so substantially built that it will for many years to come bear the action of the wind and waves. Behind the ancient ruin is a considerable tract of pasture land nearly level, the whole of which is laid off in feus. About sixteen acres have already been taken, and active building operations will forthwith be begun. Indeed it is to attract feus that the pier has been built. Hitherto, persons who desired to land at this point had to signal to the boatmen to pull alongside the Lochgoilhead steamers to take them off. It is unnecessary to say that the scenery in the neighbourhood of the new pier is unsurpassed for solitary grandeur in the Western Highlands. The luncheon, it may be mentioned, was supplied by Mr Richard Fyfe, Ardenadam Pier Hotel.”—Greenock Advertiser, May 25, 1877
North British Daily Mail, July 5, 1877
The following year, the Lochgoil route was given a boost when their relatively new Windsor Castle, just launched in 1875 as a flush-decked steamboat, was given a rear saloon. Her consort, Carrick Castle of 1870, remained in her flushed-decked state until sold at the end of the 1880 season, after the new Edinburgh Castle, built with a rear saloon, was introduced. The ships provided an ample service for the local communities and the increasing tourist trade. Carrick Castle became a favoured destination for trips and picnics.
“The Glasgow and Lochgoil steamboat route.—Yesterday the favourite steamer Windsor Castle, belonging to the Lochgoil and Lochlong Steamboat Company, inaugurated the season by a pleasure trip down the river. Messrs T. B. Seath & Co., shipbuilders, Rutherglen, the builders of the boat, were instructed to fit up a saloon on deck, and make various other improvements, and they have done their work so well that the Windsor Castle, always a handsome steamer, is now one of the finest and most comfortable steamers on the Clyde. The deck saloon, which is fitted up and furnished in a luxurious manner, extends from a little behind this paddle-boxes to the stern of the boat, and is divided into two apartments—first, the general saloon, and then a saloon for the ladies. The large saloon is fitted on each side with velvet-cushioned seats, and there are large mirrors at each end. In the centre is a table conveniently placed, while the floor is richly carpeted. Curtains are hung in the doorways, and take the place of doors. A broad staircase leads from the upper-deck to the saloon, and facing the passengers as they descend the staircase is a handsome drinking fountain. One effect of the improvements that have been made upon the steamer is that the steerage and cabin ends are complete in themselves. Below the deck saloon is what was formerly the sitting saloon of the vessel, but which is now converted into a dining saloon, capable of dining comfortably 70 persons at a time. There is also a dining saloon in the steerage part of the vessel, which will obviate the necessity of cabin and steerage passengers having to go to the same saloon when dining. The steerage is complete in every way in itself, there being, besides the usual conveniences, a lavatory for females in the forepart of the vessel. The galley, instead of being the small, ill-constructed inconvenient place that is found in the greater number of the river steamers, is a fine and commodious apartment, and is placed on the port side of the vessel, and separates the cabin from the steerage, there being no communication between the two for passengers along that side of the steamer. Altogether the vessel has been vastly improved, and the Lochgoil and Lochlong route is sure to become even a greater favourite with excursionists than it has been in the past. At the invitation of the directors of the company, a select party went on a pleasure trip in the Windsor Castle yesterday. She left Greenock about nine o’clock. Amongst those on board were—Mr Wm. M‘Lean. chairman of the Lochgoil and Lochlong Steamboat Company; Mr and Miss Carmichael, Glasgow; Mr W. H. Scott, Glasgow; Mr and Mrs Seath, Langbank; Mr, Mrs, and Misses Gilchrist, Greenock; Mr William Clark, marine painter, Greenock; Mr William King, Glasgow; Mr M. T. Clark, manager of the company, Mrs Clark, and Miss Roy, Langbank. The morning was wet and stormy, and as the day wore on the gale increased, and was accompanied by drenching showers of rain at intervals. The route taken by the steamer yesterday was first as far as the entrance to the Kyles of Bute, back to Lochlong, and up to Lochgoilhead, where a halt was made for an hour. At two o’clock the steamer left the pier, the Carrick Castle, another steamer belonging to the company, which had been lying alongside for a short time, leaving at the same time. When the two steamers had passed Douglas Pier, an exciting race between them took place. The Carrick seemed at first as if she was going to beat the Windsor, but when the latter got fairly started she went slowly ahead, and by the time the two were nearing Carrick Castle Pier the Windsor was fully a length ahead. After going down Lochgoil, the steamer went up Lochlong some distance, and then returned and made for Greenock, where it arrived about five o’clock. At times the spray was thrown completely over the vessel, and when passing Ardentinny home-coming a severe squall struck the boat, causing those on deck to lay hold of whatever they could to enable them to keep their feet. All through the steamer behaved most admirably, and the steadiness she maintained even when the storm was fiercest was remarkable. A better day for testing the capabilities of the boat, with her new deck load, could not have been desired, and those present could not but be well with the way she stood the test. After leaving Lochgoilhead, the company adjourned to the saloon, where dinner was served, the chair being occupied by Mr M‘Lean. After dinner the Chairman, in proposing “Success to the Windsor Castle,” referred to the fact that the Lochgoil and Lochlong Steamboat Company had been in existence for fifty-three years. During all the time they had had steamers running on the route there had been no accident to life.—(applause)—neither had there been any accident or damage to property. (Applause.) The company had been a success financially, and this he attributed to the admirable management of Mr Clark who had acted as manager to the company for the last ten years. (Applause.) The chairman concluded by coupling with the toast the names of Mr Seath, one of the builders, and Mr King, the gentleman who had supplied the engines, both of whom made suitable replies.
“The Windsor Castle is to commence running on Saturday first, when the Carrick Castle which is at present on the route, will be laid up for an overhaul. The Windsor Castle is commanded by Captain Barr, who is acknowledged to be a courteous gentleman, a careful navigator, and one who looks to the comfort of his passengers. The cuisine will, as formerly, be under the management of Mr Robert Ferguson.”—North British Daily Mail, March 8, 1878
North British Daily Mail, June 21, 1878
Buchanan’s Elaine on an excursion to Carrick Castle
Windsor Castle at Carrick Castle (Poulton)
Glasgow Herald, June 19, 1979
Service to Loch Goil was maintained by the Lochgoil and Lochlong Steamboat Company that provided a connection through Hell’s Glen to Inveraray and offered a round trip with the new Lord of the Isles, and in 1879 the name of the company was changed to the Lochgoil and Inverary Steamboat Company. The new Edinburgh Castle was introduced to the Lochgoil route in 1879.
Edinburgh Castle approaching Carrick Castle
Windsor Castle at Carrick Castle (Ritchie)
Edinburgh Castle at Carrick Castle (Valentine)
Edinburgh Castle at Carrick Castle in 1905 (Valentine)
The coming of the railway steamers in the 1890s was stiff competition for the local company that continued to sail “all the way” from Glasgow. The introduction of the turbine steamers in the new century found Loch Goil an attractive destination for evening cruises. Carrick Castle became a favourite location for cruises that involved musical entertainment, either on board or after landing.
The Caledonian’s Marchioness of Breadalbane at Carrick Castle around 1910
Benmore with an excursion and Edinburgh Castle around 1910
“Evening cruises.—A musical evening cruise, promoted by Greenock Glee and Madrigal Choir, will be sailed to Loch Goil to-morrow. The steamers Waverley has been chartered, and will leave Princes Pier at 7:20 and Gourock at 7:35. Glees, part songs, solos, and orchestral selections will be rendered on board off Carrick Castle, were the boat will remain stationary during the concert. On the same evening the turbine steamer Queen Alexandra will run a special cruise to Loch Striven, leaving Princes Pier at 7:10 and Gourock at 7:25. Greenock Volunteer Band will discourse music on board. The Queen Alexandra sails her usual cruise to-night, leaving the same time as on Wednesday.”—Greenock Telegraph, June 23, 1903
“Operatic Society’s Excursion.—The members of the St Andrew’s Choral Society (“Les Cloches de Corneville Company”) had an outing to Inverkip yesterday evening. The party occupied two large char-a-bancs, and the drive on such fine evening was very enjoyable. Tea was partaken of at the village, and afterwards games were indulged in on the sward by the shore. The voices of the company were heard in song and chorus as they mode their way home. A musical cruise under the auspices of the society has been arranged for the 29th, Carrick Castle being the rendezvous, where a concert will given on shore.”—Greenock Telegraph, June 9 1904
“St Andrew’s Choral Society Cruise.—Favoured with beautiful weather, last night’s cruise of the St Andrew’s Choral Society was a decided success. There was some inconvenience at the pier through the large number of intending passengers, hundreds being unable to get on board the Waverley. However, Mr Greenlees chartered the King Edward, and this fine turbine boat took off the remaining passengers. Arriving at Carrick Castle, a concert was held on shore, where choruses and quartettes from “Les Cloches de Corneville,” etc., were given, and the remainder of well-selected programme was carried through on the King on the homeward sail. The soloists were Mr J. M. Aitken and Miss Mollie Lockhart, while Miss M. K. Blair played the accompaniments. The scenes on board the steamers, and at Carrick Castle, were animated and full of enjoyment, and the indefatigable conductor, Mr Alex. Greenlees and his choir, may be congratulated on filling a want in the social life of young Greenock. Both steamers arrived back at Princes Pier before eleven o’clock.”—Greenock Telegraph, June 30 1904
Despite the popularity of the pier, facilities were rather Spartan.
“A urinal as a waiting-room.—Carrick Castle, Lochgoil, 6th August, 1906. Sir,—As the above is the only shelter on a wet day for the crowds of children and adults visiting this pier the stench is horrible, there being water in it to carry away the smell. Surely the sanitary authorities can compel those responsible to bring about improvement. As for the public school, there is not vestige of sanitary accommodation, not even a drink of water for the children. At one of the largest houses here the ashpit has not been cleaned out for the last five years.—I am, yours faithfully, Feuar.”—Greenock Telegraph, August 7, 1906
Port Glasgow Express June 12, 1912
In 1905, the northern shore of Loch Goil was part of the Ardgoil Estate purchased by Mr A. Cameron Corbett for the City of Glasgow and renamed the Ardkinglas Estate. This provided a boost to traffic. The Lochgoil and Inverary Steamboat Company was taken over by Turbine Steamers 1912 and the old stalwarts, Edinburgh Castle and Windsor Castle were scrapped.
Before she was withdrawn, Windsor Castle had a fore-saloon added
Daily Record August 7, 1917
MacBrayne’s Iona at Carrick Castle in the 1920s after the Company took over the mail route
Calls at Carrick Castle continued through the first world war and in the subsequent decades it was a popular destination for trips. The road from Douglas Pier to Carrick Castle was improved in 1938, signaling the end of the usefulness of the pier. The pier closed in 1945 after it was damaged but was reopened by the Admiralty.