Skipness

By on Mar 25, 2018 in Clyde River and Firth, Minard Castle, Skipness | 1 comment

The Estate of Skipness, since ancient times, was in the hands of the Campbell family, and during that time, in 1834, a quay was built to protect the fishing fleet from the regular gales that roared up the Sound of Kilbrannan. The village itself is strung out along a sandy bay with the Mansion House and Skipness Castle to the east, to Skipness point that marks the entrance to Loch Fyne. The little harbour was located north of the point.

In 1843, the estate was sold to William Fraser, who sold it in 1866 to the trustees for the Robert G. Graham family of licensed grocers from Glasgow. At the time, Robert Graham had not reached the age of majority. The Graham family quickly set about improving the policies.

Skipness Pier with Minard Castle

Around 1878, a new iron pier was erected, made from used rails of the Great Western Railway. It was built north of the fishing quay and roughly two miles distant from the village itself. An improved road was also built to the pier and shortly thereafter, a new road was built to Cloanaig from where there was a road to Tarbert. The relative isolation of the village was overcome but connections by sea were still important.

One of the earliest excursions to the new pier was by the Viceroy when Captain Williamson, the owner, was presented with a testimonial from the passengers who relied on his services between Rothesay and Greenock.

“Presentation to Captain James Williamson, steamer Viceroy.—A short time ago a movement was inaugurated among the regular passengers travelling with the Viceroy between Kyles of Bute, Rothesay, Innellan, and Glasgow to present Captain James Williamson with a testimonial, in order to mark their appreciation of the ability with which he discharges his duty, and as a testimony of his courteous attention and care of his passengers while on board his steamer. A large sum was readily subscribed, when the committee decided in presenting the captain and his wife with their portraits in oil, besides giving him a valuable and unique timepiece in the form of a capstan, having a compass, barometer, and thermometer surrounding it. The presentation took place on board the Viceroy on Saturday. About 100 gentlemen belonging to Glasgow, Greenock, Dunoon, Rothesay, &c., made up a very enjoyable party, and the steamer proceeded through the Kyles of Bute and across Loch Fyne to Skipness pier, where she was moored. Dinner was served in the main saloon, the purveyors being Messrs Ferguson & Forrester, Glasgow. The chair was occupied by Mr J. Tullis, leather merchant, Glasgow, the croupiers being Messrs Fletcher and Gray. In making the presentation, the Chairman in appropriate terms spoke of the admirable service provided by the Messrs Williamson between Glasgow, Greenock, and the coast, and the great satisfaction felt by the travelling public owing to the careful and skilful way in which their guest handled his well-appointed steamer. Captain Williamson, who on rising to reply was greeted with much applause, said he felt painfully conscious of his unworthiness of such handsome gifts conveyed in such flattering terms by their chairman. Still he was possessed with feelings of intense satisfaction when he found that the little efforts he had made towards the pleasure and comfort of his passengers had been so highly appreciated. (Applause.) He did not flatter himself that this compliment was given entirely on his own account, as it would ill become him to take credit for the position the steamers belonging to them hold on the Clyde. (Hear, hear.) He was only following in the footsteps or his father, who had, borne the burden and heat of the day in establishing what is sometimes humorously called the “Turkish fleet.” (Laughter and applause.) These handsome gifts, however, would only stimulate him to further exertions on behalf of the passengers who may be pleased to travel with their steamers. (Applause.) It had been their ambition to combine in their steamers the very desirable qualities of speed and comfortable accommodation for passengers, and also to keep always sharp to time and never disappoint travellers. (Applause.) He thought he might be allowed to say, without flattery, that his firm had accomplished something in that way, although they were fully conscious that a great deal more remained yet to be done; but they hoped to prove in time that their aim and ambition was to sustain the high reputation of Clyde river steamers. (Great applause.) Thereafter the engineer (Harry Simpson) and the pilot of the Viceroy were presented by the chairman with gold albert chains and appendages. Mr Mathieson, of the Glasgow and South-Western Railway, in replying to the toast “The commercial interests of Glasgow,” expressed the satisfaction the directors of his company felt at the excellent steamboat service Messrs Williamson provided in connection with their trains, and heartily endorsed what had been said by the chairman regarding the skill and ability displayed by their guest in the discharge of his onerous duties on board his steamer. A number of appropriate toasts followed, and Greenock was reached about nine o’clock, all on board having spent a most enjoyable day. The band of the Greenock Rifles, under Mr Denney, accompanied the steamer and discoursed excellent music.”—Glasgow Herald, September 16, 1878

Another letter to the editor highlighted the improvements that had been made in the area as a result of the enterprise of the Graham family.

“Benevolence and Improvement at Skipness.—Sir,—A week ago I read in the Greenock Telegraph a few lines from a correspondent regarding the opening of a new road along the shore from Skipness to Cloanaig Glen, a distance of about two miles, being constructed by the amiable and courteous Laird of Skipnesss, Robert G. Graham, Esq. It says much, first for his enterprise, and second for his benevolence. His knowledge of modern improvements made him see a more excellent way than the outrageous engineering of olden times in making roads. It did not appear to them at that time to avail themselves of what nature provided as the better way. I have often seen instinct of the creeping reptile on the ground feeling his way cautiously, and putting out his long and tender feelers before him, the points of which appear to be full of tender and sensitive nerves, and when feeling any insurmountable obstacles in his way he draws back and chooses a different route so as to proceed more easily and more safely. I know not by what chart was the creatures directed, but I have many times wished that former road makers had been endowed with the same instinct as the reptile I have been describing. The Laird of Skipness has adopted the more excellent way. The old road starting from the village at Tighnacraoibhe (the Tree House) looked very formidable to encounter, especially to the poor dumb horses who could not remonstrate with their voice. At last human wisdom and enterprise overcame the difficulty, and will prove beneficial to generations to come, for it has been unpleasant to generations past. Secondly, the laird’s benevolence in doing this has not only materially helped the unemployed on his estate and endeared himself to the people, but has beautified the walk or drive and made it salfe from to Skipness to Clonaig Glen. It will be difficult for any tourist to find more beautiful scenery, from which are seen the bold towering mountains of Arran with their various shapes, sizes and shades. The eye is pleasantly relieved by their variety. Next, the whole of Kilbrannan Sound out to Campbeltown; next the Island of Bute, Port-Crawford, and the Ayrshire coast where are seen all vessels going out and coming into the far-famed Clyde. The Superior of Skipness has already put up an iron pier about two miles from the village, and made a new road to it. It is to be hoped that the country people from Crossaig, Clonaig, &c., will bring as much trade to this quay as will encourage the steamer to call twice week in place of once a week as at present. Skipness of today is very different from what it was fifty years ago. Now it can boast of a post-office and telegraph communication, baker’s shop, joiner, blacksmith, grocer, shoemaker, tailor, &c. Add the many newly erected cottages the natural beauty of the place and a visit to the unrivalled beauty of the two glens will repay anyone to see it. Last, and not least, see the fine old Castle, and this new road called forth the above remarks. Any parties visiting Skipness will find the old Castle a venerable and majestic pile, evidently of great antiquity. No notice of this placeis in history previous to 1158. Skipness signifies “ship point.” It was erected into a parish with Saddale in 1753. The parochial register began in the year 1783. Skipness Castle is of a square form, with a large court within. The outer wall is 35 feet in hight, and 7 feet thick. There are two projection towers, the one at the south-east end, and the other caller Tur in ’tsagairt (the Priest’s Tower). Coming to Skipness from the south-west, it discloses a beautiful and imposing landscape to the old Castle, with the mansion of the landowner improved with judgement and taste. The commude vegalies, the pride of the British fare, is scattered in frequent patches among the common brackens on the Skipness estate. The place is also much improved with plantations. There is another advantage in the village—cah’n eil aon a craic uisge a beatha heaths (not one selling whisky). It is worthy of note there is not pauper in the parish.—A Clonaig Boy.” Greenock Telegraph, February 14, 1879

The new pier was situated to try to attract calls by the steamship traffic that frequented the Loch Fyne ports. The new Lord of the Isles and Columba and the venerable Iona sailed daily (except Sunday) in the summer, and the slower Loch Fyne cargo steamers sailed all year round. The new pier attracted some initial interest.

Rothesay Chronicle, March 9, 1877

Greenock Advertiser, August 15, 1879

The Evening News commented on the arrangements for the Glasgow Fair in July 1879, noting that “this year during the holidays, the Iona takes the Skipness route, and leaves to her sister ship, the Columba the Ardrishaig journey.”

Evening News, July 19, 1879

Iona

Evening News, July 24, 1879

The following year, the Glen Rosa and Guinevere that had competed on the route to Arran by way of Rothesay and Kilchattan Bay in 1879 recognized that competition from the new saloon steamer Ivanhoe provided more competition than they could be expected to withstand. The owners came to an arrangement to cooperate on the Arran route, one steamer sailing by of Rothesay and Kilchattan Bay with a new venture through the Kyles of Bute, linking Skipness and Lochranza to provide a circular tour. The Glen Rosa and Guinevere alternated weekly on the schedule.

Greenock Advertiser, July 30 1880

“The Guinevere and Glen Rosa.—The favourite Glasgow and Arran saloon-steamer Guinevere has commenced plying to Lochranza (Arran), via Rothesay, Kyles of Bute, and Skipness, which will doubtless proves a most popular route with excursionists. It is intended to run a coach, in connection with the steamer, between Lochranza and Corrie, so that passengers will have the opportunity of returning per steamer Glen Rosa, via Kilchattan Bay, thus affording a view not only of the whole of Bute and both sides of Arran, but also of the romantic scenery of that part of the island between Lochranza and Corrie. The two steamers Guinevere and Glen Rosa are this year working in concert, the former commanded by Captain John Reid, who has been for several years on the Arran route, and the latter by Captain Shearer, who is also well known. The stewards’ department is under the management of Mr Robertson.”—Greenock Advertiser, June 5, 1880

Greenock Advertiser, July 30, 1880

Greenock Advertiser, September 2, 1880

Glen Rosa at Brodick (Valentine)

The new route was not a success and the Glen Rosa was sold the following year.

While Skipness remained a destination for special trips and excursions, regular calls were made only by the Loch Fyne cargo steamer Minard Castle that was built in 1882, taking over from the Jura. Even this call was irregular if there was a moderate east wind blowing. It is with the Minard Castle that the majority of the photographs of the pier have featured.

Glasgow Herald, August 30, 1882

Minard Castle at Skipness Pier (Spencer)

One regular chore for the steamer was the movement of sheep to the lowlands in the autumn. Always an exciting time with an unpredictable cargo.

Loading sheep at Skipness

Glasgow Herald, January 11, 1884

The excursion traffic was never prolific. In the 1880, the Wemyss Bay Company ran excursions, and these increased in frequency with the arrival of the fine saloon steamer Victoria in 1886.

Rothesay Chronicle, August 19, 1882

Rothesay Chronicle, July 31, 1886

Victoria on an excursion

The virtues of the locality were touted in the letters to the editor pages and difficulties just as frequently voiced.

“A neglected spot.—Sir, Seeing we are just at the opening of the season, there is a spot I want to call attention to (having been neglected hitherto). I hope that it will not be too much to ask that the steamers Columba and Iona, in their daily runs to Ardrishaig, to call at Skipness also. This would give satisfaction to a great number of people. There is a fine drive via West Loch Tarbert, and time would be given to see the scenery in that locality and catch the steamer returning at Tarbert.—I am &c., Pleasure-seeker”—Glasgow Evening Post, May 16 1891

“Neglected spot.—. Sir, Pleasure Seeker writes a letter in your issue of Saturday regarding what he designates as a neglected spot called Skipness, and which is, I understand, situated in a remote part of the western Highlands. For my part I am rather afraid if a percentage of pleasure seekers was taken to find out how many ever heard of it, the number would be comparatively few. I quite certain that, if there were any scenery really worth visiting in the surrounding district which would benefit pleasure seekers to break their journey, the steamboat company would be the first to advertise same, and call there on the daily runs. I am also informed that there are no hiring establishments in Skipness, so that, if anyone even desired to have a drive round, they would require to hire a farmer’s trap or cart, which would probably mean a fine for poor farmer if the revenue officers heard of it. The worst point of all is that there is not an hotel or even a licensed grocer in the whole place, so that, if a refreshment was desired, which is not the least improbable, tourists would require to travel a distance of thirteen miles to Tarbert. I think the very idea of such an undertaking would damp the ardour of even the Most enterprising pleasure seeker.—I am, &c., M.S.S.”—Glasgow Evening Post, May 19, 1891.

Rothesay Chronicle, June 21, 1890

Greenock Telegraph, July 17, 1891

Calls continued into the new century. Landing calls might give an hour or so ashore, barely enough time to visit the village but sufficient to explore the rocky shoreline and climb a surrounding hill. Non-landing cruises were also popular, combined with a round-Bute cruise.

Daily Record, August 4, 1914

Daily Record, September 1, 1939

After the second world war, excursions to Skipness featured in the British Rail steamer services on the Clyde. However, this did not last. Improved and more reliable road connections saw the demise of the cargo runs and the closure of the pier.

Angus Graham, “Skipness—Memories of a Highland Estate,” Cannongate, Edinburgh, 1993.

1 Comment

  1. Paul Murton

    April 11, 2018

    Post a Reply

    Very interesting collection of photographs. Thanks for putting them on line. Would it be possible to get higher resolution copies for broadcast?

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