Messrs Hutcheson’s Clansman of 1855

By on Mar 10, 2020 in Clansman, Clyde River and Firth | 2 comments

The loss of the Chevalier in 1854, just over a year after her commissioning was a significant loss to the expansion plans of Messrs. David Hutcheson & Co. The company had to scramble to the charter market to supplement the service when their problems were compounded with the closure of the Crinan Canal after a lock was broken. Through the winter, the opposition steamer, Islay, carried much of the traffic. In the middle of January, 1855, however, there was some relief on the horizon. The Crinan Canal reopened and it was announced that a replacement for the Chevalier would be ready early in the summer.

Glasgow Herald, February 5, 1855

The new steamer was launched on Saturday June 16, 1855 at the yard that had built the Chevalier and in March 1855, had launched the new Iona for the Clyde connection of the swift steamer route to Oban and the highlands.

“Launch.—There was launched on Saturday, from the building yard of Messrs. James and George Thomson, the Clansman, a beautiful steamer, the property of Messrs. David Hutcheson & Co., intended to be employed in carrying goods and passengers in the Highland trade, in conjunction with the other vessels belonging to tile same firm. The Clansman is 185 feet long, 23 feet broad, and 13 feet deep, and will be propelled by two oscillating engines of great power.”—Glasgow Herald, Monday, June 18, 1855

The first Iona built by Messrs J. & G. Thomson in the same year as Clansman 

The new steamer entered service towards the end of August.

“The fine new paddle steamer Clansman, built by Messrs J. & G. Thomson, for Messrs David Hutcheson Co., was put yesterday morning on the North and West Highland Station, where she will no doubt give the highest satisfaction.”—Greenock Advertiser, August 24, 1855

“The western isles.—The new steamer Clansman returned from her first voyage, from the Broomielaw to the Hebrides on Wednesday last, and we are happy to learn that she has come up to the full expectations both of her builders, Messrs. J. & G. Thomson, and of her owners. This fine vessel has been recently added to the fleet of steamers established by our enterprising townsmen Messrs. David Hutchinson & Co., for the accommodation of the Western Highlands and Islands of Scotland. She is a paddle ship of 260 tons register, exclusive of engine room, or gross tonnage of 400 tons, with engines of 200-horse power, on the oscillating principle, and is fitted up with the greatest convenience for landing and embarking goods and cattle at the numerous ports and creeks where she is intended to call, and with an elegant saloon and most comfortable sleeping berths both for first and second class passengers. It is needless to add, because it is characteristic of all of the same company’s vessels, that the cuisine and the steward’s department generally are of the first order—no mean recommendation for passenger ships. She is commanded by Captain Rankine, whose experience and urbanity are so well known. We understand a few of our townsmen availed themselves of the opportunity of the Clansman’s first voyage, and were witnesses to her performance. She steamed at an average of thirteen miles an hour in the course of the voyage, encountering some very severe weather, which tested her sailing qualities and the strength of her engines most effectually. In going or returning she visited Oban, Craignure, Lochalen, Salen, Tobermory, Arisaig, Rum, Armadale, Isle Oronsay, Glenelg, Balmacarry, Kyleakin, and Broadford and Portree, in Skye; Loch Broom, Ulapool, and Lochinver, in Ross and Sutherland; and thence to Stornoway in Lewis, thus giving the voyagers an opportunity of seeing some of the most interesting scenery in Scotland, and with which they were highly gratified. We trust that the spirited exertions of the proprietors of this line, in thus affording such important means of communication with these otherwise remote regions, will be duly acknowledged by the owners of the various estates in the West Highlands, as well as by the mere tourist.”—Glasgow Herald, September 3, 1855

Sailing, like her predecessor on Thursday with Stornoway as the ultimate destination, form which she returned on Monday, she had regular calls, for example at Oban and Portree, and periodic connections visits to many other smaller communities around the western seaboard. Her trade was not merely in the more perishable commodities important to the district she served; wool, herring, salmon, sheep and cattle, but she also allowed the population to move around in numbers to follow the seasonal trade in fishing and harvest.

“The Clansman steamer reached Scrabster Pier on Sunday afternoon, and left an early hour on Monday morning, with about the usual number of Highlandmen for the Lews. About 100 left before, with an English smack, the fare in either instance being so low 3s. a-head.”—Inverness Courier, September 20, 1855

Glasgow Herald, October 1, 1855

Clansman was frequently in the news.

“Earlier in the afternoon, a widow from Dublin, named Donachie, while going along the stage on board the steamer Clansman, was accidentally pushed into the river by one of the lumpers who was helping load the vessel with coal. She was picked up in a very exhausted state, but after the usual restoratives had been applied by the surgeon at the Clyde Police Office, she was able to walk home to the house of a friend about four or five hours after the accident.”—Scottish Guardian, December 28, 1855

“On Tuesday morning the steamer Cygnet, which plies between Glasgow and Inverness, while on her way from the latter place, struck on a rock in Blackmill Bay, in the Island of Luing, during a fog. Luing is a short distance north of Crinan, which place the passengers reached, and they arrived here on Wednesday on board the Lochfine steamer Duke of Argyll. The Clansman, which left Greenock on Thursday afternoon, had on board casks, &c., to float the Cygnet off.”—Glasgow Herald, January 14, 1856

In her first full season, Clansman ran with a new consort, Hutcheson’s Dolphin.

“Steam to the North-West Highlands.—We learn that the well-known and favourite steamer Dolphin; plying for many years in connection with the unrivalled  fleet of steamers belonging to the Messrs. Hutcheson & Co., between Oban, Staffa, and Iona, is soon to take up the trade between Glasgow and the north-west Highlands generally, in consort with the Clansman, another of their superior steamers. Prior to this arrangement taking place, we notice that the Dolphin is undergoing a thorough general overhauling at Stobcross pier, close to Messrs. J. & G. Thomson’s yard, whose workmen are employed at the job. The Mountaineer, berthed close to her, it also being brushed up a good deal, and will run from Crinan to Oban, and thence to Corpach; while the well-known fast-sailing steamer Pioneer will take the Oban, Staffa, and Iona course.”—Glasgow Herald, March 26, 1856

“There was a capital catch of herring in the Gareloch on Monday night, one boat having taken eight maize (4000), and the fishing was successful in Loch Long, the Chancellor having twenty boxes on board on Tuesday. The Clansman, which arrived from Tobermory on Wednesday, landed several boxes here containing fish very superior both in size and quality to those caught in this neighbourhood. She reported that several Prussian vessels, and other foreigners, were at the Lewis purchasing the fish which had risen to 30s. per cran. Stornoway harbour was so crowded with vessels of all kinds that the Clansman took upwards of half an hour to warp out of it. Some very fine herrings were in the market from Tarbert last night; but the price was as high as 2½d. and 3d. each.”—Glasgow Herald, June 16, 1856

Glasgow Herald, May 11, 1857

One of the best accounts of a voyage in west highland waters in this time period is given in the chapter Homewards—from “A Summer in Skye” by Alexander Smith. It recounts his voyage from Portree to Greenock on board the Clansman and since the book is no longer in print, it is worth recounting here.

“Life is pleasant, but unfortunately one has got to die; vacation is delightful, but unhappily vacations come to an end. Mine had come to an end; and sitting in the inn at Portree waiting for the southward-going steamer, I began to count up my practical and ideal gains, just as in dirty shillings and half-crowns a cobbler counts up his of a Saturday night.

“In the first place, I was a gainer in health. When I came up here a month or two ago I was tired, jaded, ill at ease. I put spots in the sun, I flecked the loveliest blue of summer sky with bars of darkness. I felt the weight of the weary hours. Each morning called me as a slave-driver calls a slave. in sleep there was no refreshment, for in dream the weary day repeated itself yet more wearily. I was nervous, apprehensive of evil, irritable—ill, in fact. Now I had the appetite of an ostrich, I laughed at dyspepsia; I could have regulated my watch by my pulse; and all the dusty, book-lettered, and be-cobwebbed chambers of my brain had been tidied and put to rights by the fairies Wonder, Admiration, Beauty, Freshness. Soul and body were braced alike—into them had gone something of the peace of the hills and the strength of the sea. I had work to do, and I was able to enjoy work. Here there was one gain, very palpable and appreciable. Then by my wanderings up and down, I had made solitude for ever less irksome, because I had covered the walls of my mind with a variety of new pictures. The poorest man may have a picture-gallery in his memory which he would not exchange for the Louvre. in the picture-gallery of my memory there hung Blaavin, the Cuchullins, Loch Coruisk, Dunsciach, Duntulm, Lord Macdonald’s deerforest, Glen Sligachan, and many another place and scene besides. Here was a gain quite as palpable and appreciable as the other. The pictures hung in the still room of memory, and to them I could turn for refreshment in dull or tedious hours; and carrying that still room with its pictures about with me wherever I went, I could enter and amuse myself at any time—whether waiting at a station for a laggard train, or sitting under a dull preacher on a hot Sunday afternoon. Then, again. I had been brought in contact with peculiar individuals, which is in itself an intellectual stimulus, in so far as one is continually urged to enter into, explore, and understand them. What a new variety of insect is to an entomologist, that a new variety of man is to one curious in men, who delights to brood over them, to comprehend them, to distinguish the shades of difference that exist between them, and, if possible, sympathetically to be them. This sympathy enables a man in his lifetime to lead fifty lives. I don’t think in the south I shall ever find the counterparts of John Kelly, Lachlan Roy, or Angus-with-the-dogs. I am certain I shall never encounter a nobler heart than that which has beat for so long a term in the frame of Mr M‘Ian, nor a wiser or humaner brain than the Landlord’s. Even to have met the tobacco-less man was something on which speculation could settle. Then, in the matter of gain, one may fairly count up the being brought into contact with songs, stories, and superstitions; for through means of these one obtains access into the awe and terror that lay at the heart of that ancient Celtic life which is fast disappearing now. Old songs illustrate the spiritual moods of a people, just as old weapons, agricultural implements, furniture, and domestic dishes, illustrate the material conditions. I delighted to range through that spiritual antiquarian museum, and to take up and examine the bits of human love, and terror, and hate, that lay fossilised there. All these things were gains: and waiting at Portree for the steamer, and thinking over them all, I concluded that my summer in Skye had not been misspent; and that no summer can be misspent anywhere, provided the wanderer brings with him a quick eye, an open ear, and a sympathetic spirit. It is the cunningest harper that draws the sweetest music from the harp-string; but no musician that ever played has exhausted all the capacities of his instrument—there is more to take for him who can take.

“The Clansman reached Portree Bay at eleven P.M., and I went on board at once and went to bed. When I awoke next morning, the engines were in full action, and I could hear the rush of the water past my berth. When I got on deck we were steaming down the Sound of Raasay; and when breakfast-time arrived, it needed but a glance to discover that autumn had come and that the sporting season was well-nigh over. A lot of sheep were penned up near the bows, amidships were piles of wool, groups of pointers and setters were scattered about, and at the breakfast-table were numerous sportsmen returning to the south, whose conversation ran on grouse-shooting, salmonfishing, and deer-stalking. While breakfast was proceeding you saw everywhere sun-browned faces, heard cheery voices, and witnessed the staying of prodigious appetites. Before these stalwart fellows steaks, chops, platefuls of ham and eggs disappeared as if by magic. The breakfast party, too, consisted of all orders and degrees of men. There were drovers going to, or returning from markets; merchants from Stornoway going south; a couple of Hebridean clergymen, one of whom said grace; several military men of frank and hearty bearing; an extensive brewer; three members of Parliament, who had entirely recovered from the fatigues of legislation; and a tall and handsome English Earl ofsome repute on the turf. Several ladies, too, droppedin before the meal was over. We were all hungry, and fed like Homer’s heroes. The brewer was a valiant trencher-man, and the handsome Earl entombed cold pie to an extent unprecedentedin my experience. The commissariat on board the Highland steamers is plentiful and of quality beyond suspicion; and the conjunction of good viands, and appetites whetted by the sea-breeze, resultsin a play of knife and fork perfectly wonderful to behold. When breakfast was over we all went up stairs; the smoking men resorted to the hurricane deck, the two clergymen read, the merchants from Stornoway wandered uneasily about as if seeking some one to whom they could attach themselves, and the drovers smoked short pipes amidships, and talked to the passengers there, and when their pipes were out went forward to examine the sheep. The morning and forenoon wore away pleasantly—the great ceremony of dinner was ahead, and drawing nearer every moment— that was something—and then there were frequent stoppages, and the villages on the shore, the coming and going of boats with cargo and passengers,the throwing out of empty barrels here, the gettingin of wool there, were incidents quite worthy of the regard of idle men leading for the time being a mere life of the senses. We stopped for a couple of hoursin Broadford Bay—we stopped at Kyleakin—we stopped at Balmacara; and the long looked-for dinner was served after we had past Kyle-Rhea, and were gliding down into Glenelg. For some little time previously savoury steams hadassailed our nostrils. We saw the stewards descending into the cabin with covered dishes, and at the first sound of the bell the hurricane deck, crowded a moment before, was left entirely empty. The captain took his seat at the head of the table with a mighty roast before him, the clergyman said grace—somewhat lengthily, I fear,in the opinion of most—the covers were lifted away by deft waiters, and we dined that day at four as if we had not previously breakfasted at eight, and lunched at one. Dinner was somewhat protracted > for as we had nothing to do after the ladies went, we sat over cheese and wine, and then talk grew animated over whisky-punch. When I went on deck again we had passed Knock, and weresteaming straight for Armadale. The Knoydart hills were on the one side, the low shores of Sleat, patched here and there by strips of cultivation, on the other; andin a little we saw the larch plantations of Armadale, and the castle becoming visible through the trees on the lawn.

“In Autumn the voyage to the south is lengthened by stoppages, and frequently the steamer has to leave her direct course and thread long inland running lochs to take wool on board. These stoppages and wanderings out of the direct route would be annoying if you were hurrying south to be married, or if you were summoned to the deathbed of a friend from whom you had expectations; but as it is holiday with you, and as every divergence brings you into unexpected scenery, they are regarded rather as a pleasure than anything else. At Armadale we stayed for perhaps half an hour, and then struck directly across the Sound of Sleat, and sailed up the windings of Loch Nevis. When we reached the top there was an immense to do-on the beach; some three or four boats laden with wool were already pulling out towards the steamer, which immediatelylay to and let off noisy steam; men were tumbling bales of wool into the empty boats that lay at the stony pier, and to the pier laden carts were hurrying down from the farm-house that stood remote. The wool boats came on either side of the steamer; doors were openedin the bulwarks, to these doors steam cranes were wheeled, and with many a shock of crank and rattle of loosened chain, the bales were hoisted on deck and consigned to the gloomy recesses of the hold. As soon as a boat was emptied, a laden one pulled out to take its place; the steam cranes were kept continually jolting and rattling, andin the space of a couple of hours a considerable amount of business had been done. On the present occasion the transference of wool from the boats to the hold of the steamer occupied a longer time than was usual; sunset had comein crimson and died away to pale gold and rose, and still the laden boats came slowly on, still storms of Gaelic execration surged along the sides of the ship, and still the steam cranes were at their noisy work. The whole affair, having by this time lost all sense of novelty, wasin danger of becoming tiresome, butin the fading light the steward had lighted up the saloon into hospitable warmth and glow, and then the bell rang for tea.in a moment all interestin the wool boats had come to an end, the passengers hurried below, and before the tinklings of cup and saucer had ceased, the last bale of wool had been transferred from the boats alongside to the hold, and theClansmanhad turned round, and was softly gliding down Loch Nevis.

“A lovely, transparent autumn night arched above us, a young moon and single star by her side, when we reached Arisaig. By this time the ladies had retired, and those of the gentlemen who remained on deck were wrappedin plaids, each shadowy figure brought out more keenly by the red tip of a cigar. The entrance into Arisaig is difficult, and the Clansman was put on half steam. The gentlemen were requested to leave the hurricane-deck, and there the captain stationed himself, while a couple of men were sent to the bows, and three or four stationed at the wheel. Slowly the large vessel moved onward, with low black reefs of rocks on either side, like smears of dark colour, but perfectly soft and tenderin outline; and everyhere and there we could see the dark top of a rock peering out of the dim sea like a beaver’s head. From these shadowy reefs, as the vessel moved on, the sea-birds were awaked from their slumbers, and strangely sweet, and liquid as flute-notes, were their cries and signals of alarm. Every now and again, too, with a sort of weary sigh, a big wave came heavingin, and broke over the dark reefsin cataracts of ghostly silver; andin the watery trouble and movement that followed, the moon became a well of moving light, and the star a quivering sword-blade. The captain stood alone on the hurricane deck, the passengers leaned against the bulwarks watching rock and sea, and listening to the call and re-call of disturbed mews, when suddenly there was a muffled shout from the outlook at the bows, the captain shouted “Port! port!Hard!and away went the wheel spinning, the stalwart fellows toiling at the spokes, and the ship slowly falling off. After a little while there was another noise at the bows, the captain shouted “Starboard!” and the wheel was rapidly reversed. We were now well up the difficult channel; and looking back we could see a perfect intricacy ofreefs and dim single rocks behind, and a fadingbelt of pallor wandering amongst them, which told the track of the ship—a dreadful place to be driven upon on a stormy night, when the whole coast would be like the mouth of a wounded boar—black tusks and churning foam. After a while, however, a low line of coast became visible, then a light broke upon it; and after a few impatient turns of the paddles we beheld a dozen boats approaching, with lights at their bows. These were the Arisaig boats, laden with cargo. At sight of them the captain left the hurricane deck, the anchor went away with a thundering chain, the passengers went to bed, and, between asleep and awake, I could hear half the night the trampling of feet, the sound of voices, and the jolt of the steam-cranes, as the Arisaig goods were being hoisted on deck and stowed away.

“I was up early next morning. The sky was clear, the wind blowing on shore, and the bright, living, rejoicing sea came seethingin on the rocky intricacies through which we slowly sailed. Skye was perfectly visible, the nearer shores dark and green; farther back the dim Cuchullins, standingin the clouds. Eig rose opposite, with its curiously shaped sciur; Muck lay ahead. The Clansman soon reached the open sea, and we began to feel the impulse of the Atlantic. By the time the passengers began to appear on deck the ship was lurching heavily along towards the far-stretching headland of Ardnamurchan. It was difficult to keep one’s feet steady—more difficult to keep steady one’s brain. Great glittering watery mounds came heaving on, to wash with unavailing foam the rocky coast; and amongst these the steamer rolled and tossed and groaned, its long dark pennon of smoke streaming with the impulse of the sea. The greater proportion of the passengers crawled amidships—beside the engines and the cook’s quarters, which were redolent with the scent of herrings frying for a most unnecessary breakfast—for there the motion was least felt. To an unhappy landsman that morning the whole world seemed topsy-turvy. There was no straight line to be discovered anywhere; everything seemed to have changed places. Now you beheld the steersman against the sky on the crest of an airy acclivity, now one bulwark was buriedin surge, now the other, and anonthe sheep at the bows were brought out against a foamy cataract. But with all this turmoil and dancing and rolling, the Clansman went swiftly on, andin due time we were off the Ardnamurchan lighthouse. Here we rolled and tossedin an unpleasant manner,—the smitten foam springing to the top of the rocks and falling backin snowy sheets,—and seemed to make but little progress. Gradually, however, the lighthouse began to draw slowly behind us, slowly we rounded the rocky buttress, slowly the dark shores of Mull drew out to sea, andina quarter of an hour, with dripping decks and giddy brains, we had passed from the great bright heave and energy of the Atlantic to the quiet waters of Loch Sunart; and, sheltered by Mull, were steaming towards Tobermory.

“The first appearance of Tobermory is prepossessing; but further acquaintance is if possible to be eschewed. As the Clansman steams into the bay, the little town, with its half circle of white houses, backed by hill terraces on which pretty villas are perched, and flanked by sombre pine plantations, is a pleasant picture, and takes heart and eye at once. As you approach, however, youradmiration is lessened, and when you go ashore quite obliterated. It has a “most ancient and fish-like smell,” and all kinds of refuse floatin the harbour. Old ocean is a scavenger at Tobermory, and is as dirtyin his habits as Father Thames himself. The houses look pretty and clean when seen from the steamer’s deck, but on a nearer view they deteriorate and become squalid, and several transform themselves into small inns, suggestive of the worst accommodation and the fiercest alcohol. The steamer is usually detained at Tobermory for a couple of hours, and during all that time there is a constant noise of lading and unlading. You become tired of the noise and tumult, and experience a sense of relief when steam is got up again, and with much backing and turning and churning of dirty harbour water into questionable foam, the large vessel works its way through the difficult channel, and slides calmly down the Sound of Mull.

“Gliding down that magnificent Sound, the “Lord of the Isles” is in your memory, just as the “Lady of the Lake” is in your memory at Loch Katrine. The hours float pastin music. All the scenes ofthe noble poem riseinvision before you. You pass the entrance to the beautiful Loch Aline; you pass Ardtornish Castle on the Morven shore, where the Lords of the Isles held their rude parliaments and discussed ways and means; while opposite, Mull draws itself grandly back into lofty mountains. Further down you see Duart Castle, with the rock peering above the tide, on which Maclean exposed his wife—a daughter of Argyle’s—to the throttling of the waves. After passing Duart, Mull trends away to the right, giving you a space of open sun-bright sea, while on the left the Linnhe Loch stretches toward Fort-William and Ben Nevis. Straight before you is the green Lismore —long a home of Highland learning—and passing it, while the autumn day is wearing towards afternoon, you reach Oban, sheltered from western waves by the island of Kerrera.

“The longest delay during the passage is at Oban, but then we had dinner there, which helped’ to kill the timein a pleasant way. The Clansman had received a quantity of cargo at Tobermory, at Loch Aline a flock of sheep were driven on board, goods were takenin plentifully at otherplacesin the Sound at which we touched, and when we had received all the stuffs waiting for us at Oban, the vessel was heavily laden. The entire steerage deck was a bellowing and bleating mass of black cattle and sheep, each “parcel” divided from the other by temporary barriers. The space amidships was a chaos of barrels and trunks and bales of one kind or another, and amongst these the steerage passengers were forced to dispose themselves. Great piles of wooden boxes containing herring were laid along the cabin deck, so that if a man were disposed to walk about it behoved him to take care of his footsteps. But who cared! We were away from Oban now, the wind was light, the sun setting behind us, and the bell ringing for tea. It was the last meal we were to have together, and through some consciousness of this the ice of reserve seemed to melt, and the passengers to draw closer to each other. The Hebridean clergymen unbent; the handsome earl chatted to his neighbours as if his forehead had never known the golden clasp of the coronet; the sporting men stalked their stags over again; the members of Parliament discussed every subjectexcept the affairs of the nation; the rich brewer joked; the merchants from Stornoway laughed immoderately; while the cattle-dealers listened with awe. Tea was prolonged after this pleasant fashion, and then, while the Stornoway merchants and the cattle-dealers solaced themselves with a tumbler of punch, the majority of the other passengers went up stairs to the hurricane deck to smoke. What a boon is tobacco to the modern Englishman! It standsin place of wife, child, profession, and the interchange of ideas. With a pipein your mouth indifference to your neighbour is no longer churlish, and silent rumination becomes the most excellent companionship. The English were never very great talkers, but since Sir Walter Raleigh introduced the Virginian weed they have talked less than ever. Smoking parliaments are always silent —and asin silence there is wisdom, they are perhaps more effective than, the talking ones. Mr Carlyle admired those still smoke-wreathed Prussian assemblies of Frederick’s, and I am astonished that he does not advocate the use of the weed in our English Witenagemote. Slowly the night fell around the smokers, the stars came outin the soft sky, as the air grew chill, and one by one they went below. Then there was more toddy-drinking, some playing at chess, one or two attempts at letter-writing, and at eleven o’clock the waiters cleared the tables, and began to transform the saloon into a large sleeping apartment.

“I climbed up to my berth and fell comfortably asleep. I must have been asleep for several hours, although of the lapse of time I was of course unconscious, when gradually the horror of nightmare fell upon me. This horror was vague and formless at first, but gradually it assumed a definite shape. I was Mazeppa, they had bound me on the back of the desert-born, and the mighty brute, maddened with pain and terror, was tearing along the wilderness, crashing through forests, plunging into streams, with the howling of wolves close behind and coming ever nearer. At last, when the animal cleared a ravine at a bound, I burst the bondage of my dream. For a moment I could not understand where I was. The sleeping apartment seemed to have fallen on one side, then it righted itself, but only to fall over on the other, then it made a wild plunge forward as if it were a living thing and had received a lash. The ship was labouring heavily, I heard the voices of the sailors flying in the wind, I felt the shock of solid, and the swish of broken seas. in such circumstances sleep, for me at least, was impossible, so I slipped out of bed, and, steadying myself for a favourable moment, made a grab at my clothes. With much’ difficulty I dressed, with greater difficulty I got into my boots, and then I staggered on deck. Holding on by the first support, I was almost blinded by the glare of broken seas. From a high coast against which the great waves rushed came the steady glare of a lighthouse, and by that token I knew we were “on” the Mull of Cantyre. The ship was fuming through a mighty battle of tides. Shadowy figures of steerage passengers were to be seen clinging here and there. One—a young woman going to Glasgow as a housemaid, as she afterwards told me—was in great distress, was under the impression that we were all going to the bottom, and came to me for comfort. I quieted her as best I could, and procured her a seat. Once when the ship made a wild lurch, and a cloud ofspray came flying over the deck, she exclaimed to a sailor who was shuffling past wearing a sou’wester and canvas overalls, “O sailor, is’t ever sae bad as this?” “As bad as this,” said the worthy, poising himself on the unsteady deck, “as bad as this! Lod, ye sud jist a seen oor last vi’age. There was only three besides mysel o’ the ship’s crew able to haud on by a rape.” Delivering himself of this scrap of dubious comfort, the sailor shuffled onward. Happily the turmoil was not of long duration. in an hour we had rounded the formidable Mull, had reached comparatively smooth water, and with the lights of Campbelton behind the pallid glare of furnaces seen afar on the Ayrshire coast, and the morning beginning to pencil softly the east, I went below again, and slept till we reached Greenock.

The weather frequently presented problems on the west highland service and there were some harrowing experiences.

“Narrow escape from drowning—A correspondent of the Mail writes as follows:—The steamer Clansman left Stornoway on Monday, at half-past 12 o’clock p.m., with the intention of landing Lord Saltoun and Lady Saltoun, besides other four of their party, at Balmacara. The steamer arrived there at eight o’clock evening, but was unable to land them, on account of the storm which was blowing in upon the shore, or rather upon the rocks. The steamer then got started again and proceeded to Kyleakin, the captain expecting to be able to land them there. The steamer reached that place about half-past 8, by which time it was quite dark, with a strong gale of wind and rain. The steamer’s bell was then rung, when the ferryman came off in David Hutcheson & Co.’s large boat to the steamer. The passengers and luggage were all got safely on board the cargo boat, and the steamer then backed out to anchor leaving the boat to pull to the shore, the wind at the time blowing off the shore, besides the tide running out to sea at about six or seven miles per hour. The boat appeared to keep her ground for a short time, when those on board were obliged to give up the struggle and allow her to go as the wind and tide drove her. In a very short time she was across the sound, and to those on board the steamer it appeared that they had struck the rocks on the other side, as the lamp on board the boat was seen to go out. By this time another boat had been sent off from the Clansman to assist them, when it likewise disappeared amongst the rocks. Another boat was then sent to see if they could learn what had become of the other two boats, which likewise did not return. The steamer’s lifeboat was then lowered and manned, and sent to try and find out what became of the others, when she made a round turn along the land, for some distance and came back to the stern of the steamer, and reported that it was impossible for them to land on account of the surf that was running at the time. She was then sent away again, to go farther along the land, to the place where the other boats had been seen last, but she was only a short time away when the first boat from the steamer returned, and told that when they reached the cargo boat she was sitting upon a rock some distance from the shore. They then attempted to tow her off but were not able, as part of the men in the cargo boat jumped into the steamer’s boat, when a quarrel ensued between the men in the two boats, the wind and tide in the meantime driving them both over the rocks into a small sound or gully between two islands, when they managed to get landed, Lady Saltoun’s maid having to get into the water to the middle. Of course, between rain and salt water, the whole party were drenched to the skin, in which condition they had to remain for about three hours on an uninhabited island, without any shelter whatever, when they were all safely ferried over to Kyleakin in the steamer’s life-boat; after which the steamer proceeded to Portree. The steamer lay about two hours in Portree, and then left at four o’clock, proceeding on her usual course, when she again lifted the same party at Kyleakin about eight in the morning.

“I understand that Lord Salton gave £10 to be divided amongst all hands for their exertions on his behalf.”—Glasgow Herald, October 16, 1857

In July 1857, Messrs Hutcheson purchased the Duke of Argyll as consort for the Stornaway run. She had previously been employed in the Loch Fyne trade but had been lengthened and improved to make her suitable for the more exposed waters. Unfortunately, her tenure was short and she was lost on the night of January 12, 1858.

“(From the Greenock Advertiser of Friday.) Loss of the steamer Duke of Argyll.—The steamer Clansman, on her arrival from the North last night, reported the loss of the steamer Duke of Argyll, on the night of Tuesday last, while on her passage from Clyde to Stornoway. On Tuesday evening she came to anchor in the Bay of Salen, Sound of Mull, and, the wind having shifted, she swung round at her anchors and struck a sunken rock, and shortly afterwards went to the bottom. The crew and passengers got ashore in safety. When the Clansman left her the water was washing over her deck, and she had opened up, so that her recovery is doubtful. The Clansman brought back a large portion of her cargo. She was built by Messrs. John Scott a Sons, and is the property of Messrs. David Hutcheson & Co. of Glasgow.”—Glasgow Herald, Jan 18, 1858

Glasgow Herald, June 19, 1860

A hurricane hit the west of Scotland at the beginning of October 1860.

“The Clansman steamer had a narrow escape in rounding the Mull of Cantyre during the gale. The wind freshened to a gale during the night, and the captain displayed great prudence in keeping his ship to sea, instead of running into Port Ellen, Islay. On bearing up in the morning, a heavy sea struck the vessel, throwing the man from the helm, and breaking the skylight, where several tons of water washed the saloon throughout; boots, bonnets, bags, bouquets, &c., went swimming about in all directions; and all luggage was wet. The ship, from the violence of the sea, appeared quite stupified, and it was some time before she regained any effort. The man at the helm, several children, and an old woman, were nearly washed overboard. At first it was thought that all the cattle must be thrown overboard to ease the vessel. All sails, except the fore-try-sail, were blown to atoms; but off the Isle of Arran a violent squall sent this sail to ribands. The passengers were very thankful when they got into tranquil waters next evening.”—Inverness Courier, October 11, 1860

Each year, the migration of workers for the herring and harvest seasons presented both opportunities for revenue and logistical problems for the steamers.

“The Highlanders at the Herring Fishing. —Upwards of 1000 of the hired Highlanders left Wick for their homes on Saturday week. A large number walked to Thurso, and left by the Clansman steamer on Monday morning. The Northern Ensign says that as early two o’clock on Monday morning about 1500 men were the quays at Thurso, waiting till the steamer should lie to at the quay; in fact, so closely did they stand that nothing could be taken on board for them. When the ship came in, it was resolved to allow those only on board who had tickets; but, breaking through every restraint, the Highlanders rushed madly on board, threatening to capsize the ship. Captain Sinclair, seeing that nothing else would do, backed off the steamer, when two men were precipitated into the water. The excitement was intense. The sight two men struggling in the water raised a cry for boats, while the excitement among the Highlanders at this moment was beyond description. Several boats were manned in instant and the men picked up, the last one sinking from exhaustion. The shipping had now to be done by boats, and the terrible excitement which prevailed among the Highlanders, coupled with the reckless desire to get board, made it extremely dangerous to come near the quay. We never saw men so far lost to reason; for if they had got their will, every boat would have been swamped by the crowds who rushed the boats whenever they neared the shore. Mr Leith exerted himself in the most praiseworthy manner to get the women put on board, which fee effected—the Highlanders themselves showing a little respect in this case. About eight o’clock the steamer was literally crowded, and as the boats were never slacking in carrying the men on board, Captain Sinclair very prudently put on the steam, leaving about 400 on the quay. Towards mid-day about 200 engaged a schooner to go with them, and several boats having left with cargoes, the number of men left is comparatively small.”—Inverness Courier, September 19, 1861

Greenock Telegraph, June 18, 1863

“Herring Fishings.—The Northern Ensign in its herring circular, dated on Saturday at Wick, says—During the week the influx of strangers into the town has been daily very considerable, and today our streets are almost impassable, chiefly with Highlanders come from various parts of the west to engage. A considerable number of Highland boats have also arrived, that, with favourable weather, we shall have a turn-out of probably nearly half the full fleet on Monday evening. The total catch for the week has been 368 crans; previous catch 528; total for the season, 896 crans. The quality of the fish has been very superior. At the coast stations little has been done as yet.—On the Morayshire coast a fair beginning has been made, and there has also been a promising commencement at the Aberdeenshire stations. The herring market continues healthy. The quantity of herrings contracted for here is now considerable. The general price is 30s. per barrel. Engagements with fishermen are being made at from 22s. to 23s. per cran.—The Clansman steamer brought about men to Scrabster on Thursday morning, and the other boat of Messrs Hutcheson leaves Stornoway to-day with another lot.”—Inverness Courier, July 20, 1865

Greenock Telegraph, July 29, 1865

The hull of the Maine registered ship, B C Bailey, that foundered at Kilcheran off Lismore in 1847 was towed in and propped up against Oban’s North Pier. Her hull was filled with stoned and other material and she was sunk to form a pier extension. In some early photographs, the outline of the hull can be seen among the other pilings. The North Pier was the scene of a notable rescue by a passenger from the Clansman in 1865.

“Gallant Rescue from Drowning.—A few weeks ago as the Clansman steamer was on her passage from Glasgow to Stornoway, and discharging Oban, a cry was heard from the Hulk, used as pier at Oban, that “a man was in the water.” Mr George Macdonald, merchant, Stornoway, who was a passenger in the steamer from Glasgow, heard the cry, and saw where the man was sinking. The tide was low at the time, but Mr Macdonald instantly cast off his coat and vest, and, with the rest of his clothes, boots, &c., sprang into the sea, a height of from twelve to fourteen feet, dived, and fortunately found the man, whom he brought to the surface, and with difficulty supported him there till a boat came from the shore. The man turned out to be an Oban innkeeper. Mr Macdonald coming to the surface with the drowning man he was loudly cheered by the crowd assembled, for his gallant conduct, and a number gentlemen offered to present him with some pecuniary token of their admiration, which he declined with thanks.”—Inverness Courier, October 12, 1865

In the winter of 1867, Clansman was lengthened and her machinery was extensively overhauled. She was also given new paddle floats.

“Steamer Clansman.—This steamer, one of Messrs D. Hutcheson Co.’s line of West Highland steamers, has received most thorough overhaul, and been fitted with patent floats. She will be put on the station shortly.”—Greenock Advertiser, March 26, 1868

“Steamer Clansman—This fine steamer went north on Friday in place of the Clydesdale, which goes off the station for repairs. The Clansman, during the winter, has received thorough overhaul, and an addition to her length, besides getting patent floats.”—Inverness Courier, April 2, 1868

These changes improved her performance.

“Fast Run. —The steamer Clansman, Captain Sinclair, arrived on Wednesday after a run of 12 hours and three quarters from Oban. This is the Clansman’s first trip since her alteration. She is now 17½  feet longer than when launched, her paddle floats are on the feathering principle, and her machinery has been thoroughly overhauled. The average passage from Oban round the Mull of Cantire is 14 hours.”—Greenock Advertiser, April 4, 1868

The ship’s service in fair weather and foul extended her positive reputation.

“Knoydart.—The people here having felt it a great want that they were not privileged with an occasional stated call from any of the west coast steamers, last year sent a numerously signed petition to the Messrs Hutcheson, Glasgow, praying that they would take the matter favourably into consideration. The petition was so far successful that on Tuesday last the steamer Clansman appeared in our bay, having on board several articles for this district, and, at the same time, receiving several things for the south. From the fleet of boats that congregated around the Clansman, and from the amount of goods discharged and shipped on Tuesday, we may safely, think, augur well for our expectation receiving a regular call in future.”—Inverness Courier, April 9, 1868

“Herring. —The steamer Clansman, which arrived here last night, had on board 660 boxes and barrels of beautiful fresh herrings from Stornoway.”—Greenock Telegraph, May 20, 1868

“Accident to Steamer Clansman.—The steamer Clansman on her passage to Stornoway, on Thursday night, while passing the Mull of Cantire during a very severe storm from the South, was struck amidships by a heavy sea, which stove in the port gangway, causing also some damage to bulwarks and stancheons. The vessel sustained the brunt of the gale nobly, and accomplished the passage in a period not much beyond her usual time. Yesterday she arrived here on her return passage with about 1000 sheep and 400 bales of wool, chiefly for Glasgow, and a quantity of fine herring, cured and fresh, from the island of Scalpa, where the natives are at present getting a good fishing.”—Greenock Advertiser, September 3, 1868

In calm but foggy weather, Clansman met her ultimate fate when she grounded on Deep Island, one of the islets off Sanda on July 21, 1869.

“Clyde steamer aground at Sanda—We learn by telegraph that the steamer Clansman, owned by Messrs Hutcheson, Glasgow, yesterday morning went on, a rock near Sanda a small island at the west entrance to the Firth of Clyde, and, five miles-east of the Mull of Kintyre. The Clansman was on her passage from Stornoway to Glasgow, and had about a hundred passengers onboard. Leaving Oban at half-past seven o’clock on Tuesday night, she continued her homeward voyage; but yesterday morning some apprehension of danger was occasioned by the prevalence of a dense fog. At about seven o’clock, and about three hours of high water, the Clansman struck a reef of rocks on the west of Sanda Island. The passengers, of course, were some-what alarmed when the accident took place—but they were all safely landed on Sanda. Information of the occurrence was immediately telegraphed to Messrs Hutcheson, and by their instructions the Flying Dutchman, a powerful. tug, was at once despatched from Greenock to reader assistance to the crew of the Clansman in their efforts to get the steamer off the rock. Mr Anderson, underwriters’ agent, was on board the Flying Dutchman. Arrangements were made for the screw-steamer Celt leaving Campbeltown last night between eight and ten o’clock for Greenock, for the purpose of removing the passengers thither. They are expected to arrive in Glasgow at about eight o’clock this morning. The latest telegraphic accounts received by Messrs Hutcheson state that the Clansman was making no water, and that hopes were entertained that she would be got off with, last night’s tide. However, a telegram transmitted to us by our Campbeltown correspondent, represents the condition of the Clansman as somewhat less favourable. The telegram is in the following terms:—“Passengers and crew of Clansman have all been saved. They were taken off the wreck by the screw steamer Celt, and were landed at Campbeltown. Some, however, remained on Sanda Island to look after luggage. The Clansman lies in a bad position, and is not likely to be got off. She lies on a reef of rocks to the west of Sanda, and is making water. The cargo consists of wool and herrings. The passengers are expected to leave Campbeltown to-night per the Celt.”

“From the Messrs Hutcheson’s command of steamers no interruption of their West Highland trade will be caused by this accident.”—Glasgow Herald, July 22, 1869

“The accident to the steamer Clansman.—According to the latest accounts received by Messrs Hutcheson & Company, the owners of the Clansman, the prospects of releasing the steamer from the position in which she has been fixed on a reef of rocks near the island of Sanda, have not improved since Wednesday night. Notwithstanding the efforts made by Captain Sinclair, the master of the Clansman, and of his first and second mates, assisted by the crew of the Flying Dutchman, which, as stated in yesterday’s Herald, was despatched from Greenock to render any aid possible, the stern of the vessel has submerged 12 feet at low water, while her bow is firmly secured on the rocks. In such circumstances the probability of her being got safely off is not great, though, should the weather continue favourable, it is possible she may yet be released. Further particulars as to the cause of the accident show that the Clansman was being slowly propelled, and that it was during the second mate’s watch the vessel struck on the rocks. The Flying Dutchman arrived yesterday in Greenock with a considerable portion of the cargo, and another steamer was left lying alongside the Clansman for the purpose of receiving the remainder of the cargo. The passengers and the crew of the Clansman (with the exception of the captain and the two mates, who have been left in charge of the vessel) arrived in Glasgow yesterday.”—Glasgow Herald, July 23, 1869

“Wreck of the Clansman.—We, the undersigned cabin passengers on board the steamer Clansman when wrecked off Sanda on the 21st July, 1869, in consequence of a dense fog, feel it to be our duty to express our conviction that Captain Sinclair was acting with all prudence and caution when the vessel unfortunately struck, and that he afterwards did all in his power to save the passengers, ship, and cargo;  and that to his great presence of mind and coolness all panic in landing the passengers was avoided. We beg to record our sincere sympathy with Captain Sinclair and the owners for the loss of this fine vessel.—(Signed) Louis H. Irving, Falkirk; Louis Hart, G.P.O, Edinburgh; D. Fraser, Isle Ornsay; Geo. J. Armitage, Kirklus Park, Yorkshire; John A Morrison, Stornoway; Agnes H. Irving, Falkirk, C. R, Irving, do., Jessie Fraser, Isle Ornsay;  Barbara Henderson, Skeabost; Jas. Drysdale. Aberfeldy; Peter Graham, Glasgow; Donald M‘Donald, do.; James M‘Kenzie, Stornoway; M. Mackenzie, do.; Dn. M‘Kenzie, do.; Allan M‘Dougall, Stornoway; Maud M‘Innes, Kingston; Susan M‘Innes, do.; A. Adam, Portree; And. Gibson, Stornoway; M. Mackay, do.”—Glasgow Herald, July 23, 1869

“Wreck of the Clansman.—To the Editor of the Glasgow Herald, Campbeltown, 24th July, 1869. Sir,—In Herald of 23d appears a statement regarding the above vessel, setting forth that Captain Sinclair was assisted by the Flying Dutchman and crew. Now this is not the case. Allow me to state particulars. On the 21st, when the steamer struck on the Island of Sanda, in the midst of a dense fog, the clerk, Mr Young, was despatched to Campbeltown to telegraph to the owners to get assistance. As soon as I received information of the state of the Clansman, I lost no time in making inquiries about a steamer. I found the s.s. Swan was at the quay, which belongs to John L. Stewart, Esq. of Coll; and on applying to that gentleman, he kindly granted me the steamer, and with Mr Young we steamed to the wreck, and were just in time to see her stern go down in deep water, causing all her deck cargo to float off. It was all got hold of by Captain Sinclair and his men, along with our own crew, put on board the Swan, and brought to Campbeltown. The Flying Dutchman was not at the wreck to give assistance to Captain Sinclair on the day of the apparent loss of the Clansman. Be so kind as to give this a place in your paper, and oblige, yours, &.c, W. Dickson, agent for Lloyd’s.”—Glasgow Herald, July 27, 1869

“The Clansman.—Yesterday, a telegram was received from Mr Weild, Campbeltown, by Mr. M‘Gregor, Underwriters’ Room, stating that the steamer Clansman, which went ashore on Sanda Island during a dense fog, has parted abaft the foremast.”—Glasgow Herald, July 31, 1869

“Campbeltown—Wreck sale.—The hull, engines, &c., of the steamer Clansman, lately wrecked on the Island of Sanda, were sold here an Thursday. The hull and engines were bought by Mr Gash, Greenock, for £54, four boats fetched the sum of £28 15s, and the other materials £270.”—Glasgow Herald, September 13, 1869

Clansman was replaced by a new steamer the following year. She came from the same yard as her predecessor and was powered by a screw rather than paddle wheels.

The new Clansman at Stornoway

2 Comments

  1. John Slater

    April 11, 2020

    Post a Reply

    I am deeply interested in this publication, although I already have much of the information, this article has stretched my folder somewhat.
    I believe I may be able to add a little more to the back history of the paddle steamer, as I have a model of it, prior to its full construction. I believe that my great, great grandfather was the model maker in approx 1850. I understand that Messrs Hutchinson were looking for a new design for a paddle steamer and a competition was advertised. Briefly, I understand that the final six submissions were to be constructed as a working model and a race was challenged, across Arbroath harbour, with the winner having his model built in Glasgow T J &G Thompson’s Yard. The model, although in need of major restoration, has been in the water, near my home in Sheffield.
    I believe that the race was reported in the local Arbroath newspaper, but have, so far, been unable to find that report.
    I hope the above is of interest to you.

    • valeman

      April 11, 2020

      Post a Reply

      John: Wow, most interesting. I will try and track down a reference to this. Graham

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