Stranraer is not a Clyde resort that springs readily to mind. Nestled at the head of Loch Ryan, it provided a safe haven for the traffic to northern Ireland from the earliest days of steamboat travel. A stone quay was erected in 1820 at a cost of £3,800 and was extended in 1855 to make it accessible at all states of the tide. A second pier, associated with the railway expansion was completed seven years later.

Regular steamboat communication with between Stranraer and Glasgow began in 1820 with Highland Chieftain that was replaced on the route around 1824 by the Dumbarton Castle, and for a time, Maid of Islay. In the 1830s, the steamers on the station were Hercules and Argyle, with the Ayr, Nimrod, Northern Yacht, and Lochryan involved later in the decade. In the 1840s as steamships transitioned from wooden to iron hulls, and the railway arrived at Ayr, the Albion, Queen of Scots, James Oswald, and Lady Brisbane were on the station. The latter sailing out of Ayr, was replaced by the Scotia and then the Briton. The best account of these early steamboat services is in Fraser MacHaffie’s book, “The Short Sea Route.”

Improved railway communications south of Ayr impacted the provision of passenger service by steamer to Stranraer, and this little article has a focus on excursion services from Ayr, Troon, Ardrossan, and frequently the east Arran ports that began in the mid-1890s by the Glasgow & South-Western Railway Company. After the construction of five new vessels for their fleet over their 1892-93 period, the G.&S.-W. Ry. Co. had sufficient capacity to provide summer excursions from the port of Ayr using the Glen Rosa, the winter boat for the Arran Service. The excursions were limited in extent, but she visited Stranraer, and, on Thursday, August 1, 1895, offered an excursion that was eventually to become an annual event, sailing from the port of Stranraer to Rothesay by way of the Kyles and back.

“Largs, Rothesay, and Dunoon , had better look to their laurels, for a correspondent is making a strong effort to boom Stranraer as a first-class seaside resort. “See,” he says, “the little town quietly reposing, with its houses winding around the crescent-shaped banks. No volumes of smoke hide the blue skies and poison the heaven’s pure air. No incessant whirl of machinery nor sound of anvil and hammers silence the song of birds, the rippling of streams, or the surge when beats upon the shore.” There cometh not the merry switchback or shooting saloon, for Stranraer being “placed nigh, to the cool sequestered vale or life, its time passes not in masquerade, as is frequently the, case in gain-devoted cities with crowds too often sordid as active, ignorant as loud, but with a current clear and serene, unsoiled, and swift, and of a silken sound.” And then the attractions of Loch Ryan the visitor, if sailor, can hardly resist. “The broad expanse of water sparkling with sunbeams, o’er whose gently rippling breast the breath of heaven is gaily wafting the beloved noiseless wings of mariners, fishers, and yachtsmen, is in itself, even without the landscape of which it is but the centre, and to which it is adding grace and animation, an object of pleasing beauty.”—Glasgow Evening Post, July 25, 1893

In general, however, cruising to Stranraer in these early days of the company, generally required on the faster steamers of the fleet, Mercury.

“Ardrossan, Saltcoats, & Stevenston Merchants’ Holiday, on Wednesday, 16th August.—Grad excursion to Stranraer by the G&S-W Railway Company’s new saloon steamer Mercury, leaving Ardrossan (Winton Pier) on arrival of the 9.30 a.m. train. Returning from Stranraer at 5 p.m. Reaching Ardrossan about 8.30 p.m. An excellent quadrille band will accompany the excursion. Fares for the excursion—Adults, 2/6; Juveniles, 1/3. Luncheons, dinners, and teas in the dining saloon at moderate rates.”—Ardrossan and Saltcoats Herald, August 11, 1893

“Merchants’ Holiday.—Wednesday was an annual holiday of the merchants of Ardrossan, Saltcoats, and Stevenson. Favoured with splendid weather most of the places of business were closed for the day, and a general exodus took place. A variety of trips were announced so that excursionists had a good choice but the one that secured the most patronage was the sail by the Glasgow and South-Western Company’s steamer Mercury to Stranraer. Close upon a thousand people were on board when the steamer left Ardrossan. A slight mishap at starting caused a little detention. The Mercury had to go round the quay at the stern of the Glen Sannox, and when the rope which was used for the purpose of turning the steamer was cast off it fouled on one of the paddles, and had to be cut out, causing a stoppage of some thirty minutes. The passengers on board took the matter very easily, and the rope having been cleared away the steamer proceeded swiftly on her course. A clear atmosphere and cool breeze enabled excursionists to view with pleasure the varied scenery of Arran with its heather-clad hills now in full bloom. On the opposite shores of the Firth a fine view was obtained, and many objects of interest attracted attention. Passing Girvin and Ballantrae, the steamer was soon ploughing through the waters of Loch Ryan, and Stranraer was reached about 2 p.m.Here it was found that a large party of Ulstermen had arrived on a trip from Larne and had secured the bulk of the conveyances for Castle Kennedy. However, some brakes were in waiting to convey the excursionists to Lord Stair’s grounds, and a good many took advantage of the fine drive. Stranraer merchants were also on holiday, and the shops were nearly all closed. The town which dates from the 15th century has a good appearance, and municipal matters appear to be well attended to. Among the objects of interest is the old castle in the center of the town where Graham of Claverhouse took up his abode in 1677. The return trip was a most enjoyable one. A good view was obtained of Ailsa Craig and also of Knockdonnan, known as the “false craig” beyond Ballantrae. An excellent quadrille band was on board, and dancing was kept up briskly. Mr. C Murchie, president, Mr. P.W. Hunter, secretary, and the committee of the Merchants’ Association are to be congratulated on their arrangements in connection with the trip—the most successful one ever conducted by the Association. The result must be satisfactory to the railway company. Captain Fowler, Mr. M‘Lelland, steward, and all connected with the Mercury did everything possible to contribute to the day’s enjoyment. The party reached Ardrossan about a quarter to nine.”—Ardrossan Herald, August 18, 1893

When the Company built the large excursion steamer Jupiter in 1896 to replace the Neptune on the Kyles run, Neptune became the regular summer Ayr excursion steamer. Neptune was able to offer a wider range of destinations for the residents and holiday traffic from Ayr and Troon, including Stranraer.

Neptune entering Ayr Harbour (Valentine)

For example, on Saturday, July 11, she offered a sailing to follow the yachts at the Royal Northern Yacht Club regatta at Rothesay. On Tuesday July 14, 1896, she sailed to Stranraer and on the following day to Rothesay and the Kyles of Bute. The next week on Saturday, she provided a morning sailing to Brodick, and an afternoon cruise to Girvan, and on Tuesday, Arrochar was the destination with Lochgoilhead on the Wednesday. On the Frida,y 24th, her destination was Ormidale by way of Arran, and on the Saturday, a cruise round Arran. The following Tuesday, Stranraer was visited again, and Arrochar, and Garelochead by way of Dunoon rounded out the month.

Boisterous weather was frequently encountered in the lower Firth and in 1897, Neptune appeared with the saloon windows forward of the paddle sponsons plated over. Her excursion repertoire for 1897 followed a similar pattern to that of the previous year, with visits to Stranraer every two weeks.

Neptune with plating on her forward sponsons at Ayr

The Company did not offer excursions from Stranraer in 1896 and 1897.

Some of the history associated with these sailings is provided in an article written in the early 1950s by “St Mungo” in one of the Glasgow papers.

“River Reverie.—Sailing to Stranraer.—Nestling snugly at the head of lovely Loch Ryan lies the historic port of Stranraer which serves also as the market for the extensive dairy farming district of Wigtownshire. Since 1872 this has been the headquarters of the fleet of Princesses which have served Ireland via the port of Larne, the original ship on the route being a handsome paddle vessel called the Princess Louise.

“Although three hours journey distant from Glasgow by rail, Stranraer was nevertheless at one time quite a popular resort for a day’s cruising from the Upper Firth. The voyage from the railway terminal piers occupied over four hours but this was well within the steaming range of the Clyde passenger steamer

“Away back in the 1820s we can already trace records of steamers plying to Stranraer and the 81-ton Dumbarton Castle is advertised for this route. The Countess of Galloway, Scotia, and Albion are other names connected with this trade. The sea route was then the most direct one for the Portpatrick Railway from Castle Douglas did not reach Stranraer harbour until March 1861. It was the Glasgow and South-Western Railway steamers which pioneered this lengthy run as a day’s cruising in the ’nineties. About this time their Neptune was the recognised cruise steamer, but the Mercury, which was normally employed on the Rothesay and Kyles of Bute service and had a greater turn of speed than her sister, usually deputised on the Stranraer day.

Neptune at Stranraer

“Later, the Neptune found herself in this employ, and our illustration shows her at the town pier with the funnels of one of the paddle cross channel packets visible over the erections of the railway pier. In 1907 the Caledonian Steam Packet company were also in the field with their Duchess of Hamilton which made a call at Ayr on the outward and inward voyages. Twenty-one years later, John Williamson and Co. entered this service with the King Edward on special days, calls being made at Dunoon, Rothesay, Largs, and Keppel. Again the run went into abeyance until in 1930 the L.M.S. took it up, the vessel thus employed being the turbine Duchess of Montrose. She touched at either Brodick, Lamlash, or Whiting Bay, and made the journey once weekly on Thursdays. It lasted 5 summers. It was not until the war years that the Clyde steamer was again plying in and out of Stranraer, when the Duchess of Hamilton and Glen Sannox were acting as troop transports between there and Larne.—St. Mungo, 1954.

Indeed, the turbine King Edward did make Friday excursions from Princes Pier, Greenock, to Stranraer for a few years after 1928 but I have no photographs from that era. Sailings by Juno to Stranraer in L.M.S. days were infrequent.

“Special Cruise (weather favourable)— Tomorrow (Friday) to Stranraer, allowing about one hour on shore, by turbine steamer King Edward, from Princess Pier, at 8.30 a.m., Gourock, 8.40, Dunoon, 9, Rothesay, 9.35, Largs, 10.10, Millport (Keppel), 10.30. Return fares from Greenock and Dunoon, 6/- or 4/-; Rothesay, Largs or Keppel, 5/- or 3/6.”—Daily Record, July 19, 1928

Stranraer was a working port, with much passenger and commercial traffic with Ireland and the Clyde region.

The fast paddle steamer Princess Victoriaa

Princess Maud passing Finnart, Loch Ryan

Sailing coasters at Stranraer

A Sailing Coaster

A calm morning in Stranraer Harbour

Rippling waters at Stranraer

A reminder that, though sheltered from the prevailing south-westerlies, storms at Stranraer could cause damage. 

“Stranded vessels in Lochryan.—The steamer which was driven ashore during the gale at Stranraer on Friday forenoon is the Irishman, of Glasgow, belonging to Messrs Montgomery & Co., coal merchants, Londonderry. She was on a voyage from Newry to Ardrossan light, and put into Lochryan for shelter, but broke from her moorings, and now lies close to the seawall about half-a-mile east of Stranraer. She is undamaged, but lost her anchor and chain. Some time must elapse before she can be floated. The ketch Amethyst, belonging to Messrs Drysdale, Whitehaven, from irvine to Strangford Lough with a cargo of coal, also broke her moorings at the height of the storm in the afternoon, and lies stranded a short distance east of the railway pier.”—Scotsman. December 6, 1920

However, returning to the earlier Glasgow & South-Western sailings, in 1898, Neptune was replaced at Ayr by the new Juno. Much larger and more powerful, she was much better suited to the seas of the lower Firth.

“G.& S.-W. Railway Company.— Trial trip of a new steamer.—The official trial trip of the paddle-steamer Juno, built by the Clydebank Engineering and Shipbuilding Company (Limited) to the order of the Glasgow and South-Western Railway Company, took place yesterday in the Filth of Clyde, and the results were most satisfactory to the builders and owners. The required speed over the measured mile at Skelmorlie having been more than fully maintained in face of a stiff headwind and somewhat choppy sea, the vessel went on a four hours’ cruise down the channel, the mean speed attained on the whole run being at the rate of 19¼ knots an hour.

“The Juno is the fifth pleasure steamer built by the Clydebank firm for the Glasgow & South-Western Company. Her dimensions are:—Length (between perpendiculars), 245 feet; breadth (moulded), 29 feet; and gross tonnage. 600 tons. The internal arrangements are similar to those of the Jupiter and Neptune, and the decorations, upholstery, and conveniences are in every respect superior to those in the other steamers of the Company. The first-class passengers will be accommodated at the after end of the vessel, which contains luxuriant sitting and dining saloons, the latter being arranged to seat 100 persons at one time. There are also spacious apartments at the forward end of the vessel for second-class passengers, fitted on the same elaborate scale, while a promenade deck extends practically the entire length of the steamer. All the latest appliances in the shape of steam steering gear and steam capstans have been introduced, and the lighting will be supplied from an electric installation.

“This vessel is certified by the Board of Trade to carry 1500 passengers, and she will be chiefly engaged in excursions in connection with the trains from Ayr, Troon, etc., to the various places of interest on the Firth of Clyde, going as far south as Stranraer. Her engines are of the compound diagonal direct-acting type of the well-known Clydebank design, the boiler pressure, and consequently the ratio of the cylinders, being greater than in the types of other firms. The diameter of the high pressure cylinder is 33 inches and of the low pressure 71 inches, with a piston stroke of five feet. The boilers are of the latest design, working at a pressure of 150 lbs. to the square inch; with wight furnaces.

“In the course of the cruise luncheon was served in the first-class dining saloon, among those present being Messrs. William Donaldson, chairman of the directors of the Clydebank firm; John G. Dunlop, engineering manager; and George Thomson, shipbuilding manager; James Findlayson, ex-M.P., director of the Glasgow & South-Western Railway Company; Patrick Caird, deputy-chairman; Mr Gillies, Secretary; Captain Williamson, steamboat superintendent; Mr Melville, engineer; Mr James Manson, locomotive superintendent; Mr Peter Campbell, accountant; and Mr Kirk, of the general manager’s department; and Prince Marvocordato and Captain Porie, both of the Russian Volunteer Fleet.”—Daily Record, July 6, 1898

The new steamer quickly set about proving her worth with and excursion program, sailing to Garelochead by way of Dunoon on Friday, July 8th, Stranraer on Tuesday, July 12th, Ormidale, by way of Arran the following day, and Lochgoilhead by way of Dunoon on Thursday the 14th. On a second trip to Stranraer on Friday, July 22, all went well until an unruly passenger had to be clapt in irons on the approach to Troon. The crowd on board rushed to the side of the steamer to see what all the commotion was about and, with a strong list, the Juno collided with the Troon breakwater. Passengers had to continue their journey by rail.

“Steamboat smash at Troon.—Alarming Affair.— Yesterday evening the Glasgow and South- Western Company’s steamer Juno, on arrival at Troon from Stranraer, collided with the harbour breastwork. It seems that one outrageous passenger had to be put in irons prior to the vessel’s arrival at Troon. The majority of the other passengers made a rush to the side of the boat on which the delinquent was bound, causing the steamer to have a heavy list to the one side, and thus making it difficult to steer her. The result was that she ran against the quay wall with her stem, giving the many hundred passengers on board a great shock, and damaging to a considerable extent the stem of the steamer, which was twisted about 12 inches. On examination being made it was found not safe to proceed further with the passengers, and they were advised to go on shore and take the train to their respective destinations. As there were over 1100 passengers, quite an unexpected bustle was caused at the station, and two special trains were required to accommodate them. The Juno had a number of passengers on board from Arran, and the officials had wired for the Glen Sannox to come for them, but later on they were advised to proceed to the station and take train for Ardrossan and join the Glen Sannox there. Fortunately there was no serious accident to passengers further than that one female fell forward with the shock, and had to be attended medically. The affair caused much excitement in the town. The principal passengers on board were from Troon, Ayr, Arran, and Ardrossan, and though the boat is seriously damaged in the fore part the captain is of opinion that with all the passengers ashore he will be able to proceed to Greenock with his crew, as the vessel is not making water. With the force of the shock the quay wall is somewhat marked. This is the first accident of the season to any of the pleasure steamers.”—Mail, July 23, 1898

Excursions from Ayr, Troon, and Ardrossan to Stranraer continued through the summer season, and proved popular. Depending on the day, excursionists could expect as much as two hours on shore at their destination.

“The weather has been much cooler during the week, and favourable in every respect for outdoor enjoyment. The excursion steamers have been well patronized, the Juno, which sailed to Stranraer via Arran ports on Wednesday, having a very large complement of passengers.”—Irvine Herald, August 26, 1898

In 1898, there was an excursion from Stranraer to Rothesay, on Thursday, August 4, returning to Ayr and thence by train the Stranraer. Interestingly, the steamer was not the new Juno, but the Neptune, and the return by rail may well explain why there was a hiatus on such excursions the previous two years.

Excursions to Stranraer continued in popularity up till the beginning of the first world war. These were generally on Fridays, every four weeks or so. Accommodation on board Juno was such that even rainy weather was no deterrent. Charters of other steamers from the South-Western fleet such as the Glen Sannox, also had Stranraer as their destination, but it was Juno that was the mainstay of the business.

“I am informed that the system of holidaying on board the Juno is taking stronghold in Ayr, and that there are some 30 persons with monthly tickets who are thus taking their recreation. It is a capital plan. For a sovereign and a half you can obtain a monthly ticket that covers all the boats belonging to the railway company that run on the Firth of Clyde, and every night the traveller may get home to his own bed in peace and comfort. There is an education in thus becoming familiar with the beauties of the Clyde and in meeting the many samples of humanity who day by day sail the Firth. The experienced voyager knows how to make the most of it by shifting from one boat to another, and so compassing almost everything that lies between Stranraer and Greenock. Of course this system of travelling has its drawbacks, in wet and stormy weather, especially to those who are subject to sea-sickness.”—Ardrossan Herald, July 26, 1901

The annual excursion from Stranraer, generally to Rothesay and the Kyles of Bute, took place each year at the end of July or beginning of August. An exception was in 1910. The following photographs were taken by a Stranraer photographer, J. P Milnes, and may depict one of these annual excursions from the “Toon.”

Boarding Juno at Stranraer

Juno leaving Stranraer

Of later excursions by Clyde steamers to Stranraer, I have no photographs though I’m sure many exist. The final photograph is a bit of a rarity, and shows the Jeanie Deans of 1931 on her way to the Thames as Queen of the South in November, 1965.

Jeanie Deans on November 6, 1965 at Stranraer

Fraser G. MacHaffie, “The Short Sea Route,” T. Stephenson & Sons, Ltd., Prescot, 1975

Fraser G. MacHaffie, “From Bonnie Loch Ryan to Dark Loch Goil,” Clyde Steamers, 10, Clyde River Steamer Club, Glasgow, 1974

Fraser G. MacHaffie, “Jeanie Deans,” Waverley Excursions, Glasgow, 2021