Lamlash owes its name to Molaise, the sixth century Celtic Saint who dwelt on the island that shelters the bay and the surrounding coast where the village is situated. Like Campbeltown to the south-west, the bay has provided a safe anchorage and refuge from storms for centuries. It was the base for the Viking King Hakon before the battle of Largs, and in both world war I and world war II was a protected anchorage vital to the defence of Great Britain.
Of the early times, there are few reminders in the area. There are the ruins of the Kilbride chapel in the graveyard off the road to Brodick and there is a record of a castle, though its location is uncertain. Until the coming of the steamboat, the population of this sheltered spot was sparse and lived off the crops they could grow and the fish they could catch. In Duchess Anna’s time in the seventeenth century, a small fishing harbour, accessible at all states of the tide was constructed but it fell into disuse, and around 1800, the stones were taken for the construction of houses by Captain Hamilton of the revenue service who leased the landward area on which the village was constructed. A stone quay replaced the harbour but it is left dry at low tide, despite improvements made in the 1830s when a more regular steamboat service began. While Brodick was the primary destination on the island for steamboats from Glasgow and Ardrossan, most early steamboats anchored in the more sheltered waters of Lamlash Bay.
Some of the earliest roadmaking on the Island, in 1811, stretched from Brodick to the heights of Gortonalister, just south of the village Lamlash, and the road to Blackwaterfoot round the south end was completed in 1817. A constant refrain from early visitors to the Island was the lack of accommodation, and it was not until the 10th Duke died in 1852, that a more liberal approach to feuing and construction of many of the villas in the area was allowed.
The south end of Lamlash Bay from the heights of Gortonalister
Lamlash from Gorton
The Ross road to Lagg follows the track of the Monamore Burn that enters the sea at the south end of Lamlash.
The old dye mill on the Ross Road
The Old Mill
The earliest photographs of the village date from mid to late 1860s.
Lamlash in 1865 (Annan)
Lamlash quay in the 1860s with sheep waiting for the steamer (Beckett)
McKellar’s Venus sailing from the Broomielaw and the Wemyss Bay Company’s Victory at Lamlash quay in the mid-1860s (Beckett)
The Earl of Arran sailing from Ardrossan, at Lamlash quay in the 1860s
Fishing boats at the ready, Lamlash, in the early 1870s (Beckett)
Lamlash from the pier in the 1870s (Beckett)
Cottages near Lamlash in the 1860s (Beckett)
Lamlash in the 1870s
Messrs Buchanan’s Brodick Castle, built in 1878 for the Ardrossan to Arran service tethered to Lamlash Quay.
Ivanhoe and Guinevere at Lamlash in the 1880s, with smacks at the quay
Trading smacks at the old quay
Lamlash Church, in red sandstone, dates from 1886, and much of the surrounding village is from mid-Victorian times.
Lamlash Parish Church
Lamlash Church and village from the shore
The village from the shore
Lamlash from the Church
Shore Road Lamlash
The Temperance Hotel was built in 1849.
Lamlash village
At various times, the Hamilton estate built attractive terraces of housing for estate workers.
The old thatched cottages in Nicol Street Lamlash
Murray Place
Murray Place Lamlash
Murray Place
Hamilton Terrace and Main Street Lamlash
Hamilton Terrace was built in 1895.
At the end of the Brodick road, the Marine House, was, for many years, the base of Coast-Guard operations.
The Marine House
Marine House
The Marine House from the sea
North beyond the Brodick road, the village continued in the area known as Margnaheglish, with further villas and the Free Church, dating from 1892.
Altachorvie, on the hill, later became a holiday home.
To commemorate the end of world war I, the Arran War Memorial Hospital was opened in the village in July, 1922. It has been extended and improved over the years and remains a vital part of the island community.
The sheltered agricultural land was ideal for growing potatoes, and in the 1920s and 1930s, Donald M‘Kelvie developed new and improved strains for the Scottish market. With names like “Arran Banner,” “Arran Comrade,” “Arran Chief,” and Arran Consul,” they earned him a reputation as Arran’s “potato-king,” and an O.B.E. in the New Year’s honours’ list of 1943. He land on which his potatoes were cultivated was later taken over for Arran High School.
When a pier suitable for steamers at all states of the tide was built at Brodick in 1872, it was anticipated that Lamlash would soon also have a new pier. However, it was the summer visitors who were most vociferous in clamouring for the pier.
“A new pier for Lamlash.—“Goatfell writes to a contemporary:—Sir, I am a yearly summer visitor to Arran. Hitherto, Brodick has been my resting place. This year I have gone to Lamlash. I regret the change very much, owing to the great inconvenience of the want of a proper pier. It is very seldom the steamer can land its passengers at the present pier, and the small-boats have to be resorted to. In wet and stormy weather this is very disagreeable, and in fine weather it is a waste of time. I cannot understand why the people of Lamlash cannot have a pier like their neighbors at Brodick. I can confidently assure the powers that be that the visitors to Lamlash would willingly pay twopence pier dues, same as at Brodick, rather than be landed in a small-boat. I hope this will meet the eye of some one interested, and before another season comes round, for the convenience of not only the visitors but the residents of Lamlash.”—Greenock Advertiser, July 8, 1879
Eventually, the new pier was sanctioned and construction authorized.
“New pier at Lamlash.—Arrangements are now well forward for the construction of a new pier at Lamlash, at which steamers will be able to call at all states of the tide. It is to be situated about halfway between the present pier and the Brodick-road. The gangway from the shore to the pier head will be supported by 25 spans, making a total of 500 feet. The pier itself will be shaped like the letter L, the up and down stroke being nearly as possible east and west, while the horizontal line is north and south. The north face of the pier will be 64 feet in length, and the east face 97 feet. This double face will have several advantages—one, that two steamers may be at the pier at a time; and another, that in stormy weather a vessel landing passengers at Lamlash will have the choice of two berths. On the pier head there will be ample waiting room accommodation, a cattle handling place, and stairs for small boats. The structure is to be built of timber, and is to be finished by the end of May next, Mr Thomas D Weir C.E., West Regent street has had the preparation of the plans and will superintend the work.”—Glasgow Evening Citizen, July 28, 1883
“New pier at Lamlash.—The new pier at Lamlash was opened for steamboat traffic during the week without any formal opening ceremony. All who were in the habit of visiting this charming spot on the Island of Arran must often have been annoyed at the accommodation provided for landing, which, with the exception of one or two days in the week, was by ferry boat, the old pier only being approachable by steamers at high water or within an hour of it. Representations were made to the Duke of Hamilton regarding the necessity for the new pier, and at the end of last season Mr Young, contractor, Edinburgh, was commissioned to construct a new pier 560 feet in length, to be constructed with green-hart and pitch pine timber. The pier proper has now been completed, but there is yet to be erected at the head of the pier a commodious waiting-room and store, and at the end of the pier an open waiting-room. These will not be finished till near the end of the season, but meanwhile the pier is being used for passengers. The Duke of Hamilton has retained the working of the pier in his own hands, and regular travellers in Lamlash will be pleased to learn that Mr Shaw, who for many years had charge of the old pier, has been appointed to the same position on the new pier, which is situated about 300 yards nearer the Coastguards Station than the old one was. The dues for landing at the pier are the same as those charged for using the ferry boat—twopence for each person.”—Ayr Observer, July 1, 1884
When it opened, the pier was equipped with a semaphore signalling apparatus. It was complicated to operate, and was later discarded when the new regulations for steamboats racing to piers was introduced later in the decade.
Brodick Castle at the new Lamlash pier. The steamer is temporarily without her mast. The mast for the signaling apparatus can be seen to the right of the pier buildings (Washington Wilson)
One of the main complaints of the Arran piers was the cost of the dues. While most piers on the Clyde cost a penny, the toll for Brodick and Lamlash was tuppence.
“A grievous pier tax.—Brodick, Arran, August 25, 1888. Sir,—To go from Brodick to Lamlash, a distance of three miles, costs altogether 10d, and to return 1s 8d. Of that the pier dues are no less a sum than 8d. The pier at Brodick has long ago paid itself, and there is abundance over for its upkeep. Notwithstanding this, the charge of 2d is kept up in the case of those resident in the island should they go by steamer to any other part of it. The clergymen of Brodick, should they go to visit their people at Lamlash, a distance of three miles each way, cannot do so lor lees than 1s 8d. It is the same with the residents, native or temporary. It is surely only fair that, once landed on the island, parties should have the use of the piers free of charge when going from one part of the island to another, The piermaster, of course, is not to blame, as he has a heavy rent to pay; but surely the Duke and his advisers are above exacting such an iniquitous tax from the residents, whether temporary or, native? The “powers that be” need only to know what is being done to abolish it.—I am, &c., J.C.C.”—Glasgow Herald, August 30, 1888
The new pier with warships of the home squadron in the bay
The home squadron from the golf course road
The new pier and the home squadron lying off in the bay
The new pier and Holy Isle
The village from the new pier
The old pier from the new pier
Lamlash from the new pier
Smacks at the old pier
Lamlash fared well over the years, and grew as it attracted visitors. There was always something interesting to see in the bay.
Duchess of Rothesay, built in 1895 provided a sailing to Arran by way of Rothesay and the Kyles of Bute for the Caledonian Steam Packet Co., Ltd.
In the 1890s, the Glasgow & South-Western Railway Co.’s Glen Sannox of 1892 had an imposing presence at Lamlash pier
Glen Sannox crossing Lamlash Bay, heading for King’s Cross and Whiting Bay
Glen Sannox leaving Lamlash pier for Brodick and Ardrossan
In 19o6, the Caledonian Company introduced the turbine Duchess of Argyll to compete with the Glen Sannox on the Ardrossan to Arran route. Here she is entering Lamlash Bay from King’s Cross.
Duchess of Argyll approaching Lamlash Pier
After the first world war, in 1923, the Caledonian and Glasgow & South-Western companies were amalgamated under the L.M.S. Railway. Turbine steamers originating from both companies were the usual Arran steamers. Here the G&S-W Atalanta of 1906 visits Lamlash in her L.M.S. livery.
Waiting to board the steamer at Lamlash in 1923
A new turbine steamer, Glen Sannox, was built by the C.S.P.Co. in 1925 for the Arran service from Ardrossan
Glen Sannox leaving Lamlash
An unusual visitor to Lamlash in 1931. Lady Ailsa was generally found cruising to Ailsa Craig out of Girvan, but she had trips to other destinations too.
The old stone pier was kept in use by smacks and later puffers bringing coal, and leaving with potatoes and other agricultural products.
A smack at the old quay with the new pier in the background
The smack Janet M’Nicol at the old quay
The puffer Skylight at Lamlash in the 1950s
During the second world war, the landladies of Lamlash had the 11 (Scottish) Commando billeted on them from the late summer of 1940 until the end of 1941. Later in the war, convoys and invasion fleets were assembled in the bay. By the end of the war, the pier, like that of Brodick, was in poor repair. Brodick pier was closed and renovated while Lamlash provided the main connection with the mainland. However, once Brodick was reopened, it was announced that the pier at Lamlash would be closed.
Commencing with the afternoon sailing from Arran on Friday, February 28, L.M.S. steamers will resume calling at Brodick Pier. On and after Saturday, March 1, the steamers will cease to call Lamlash Pier.”—Daily Record, February 25, 1947
The residents fought against the closure with some vigour.
“Lamlash Pier Protest.—In protest against the closing of Lamlash pier a committee was formed to draft a petition to be submitted to the Secretary of State for Scotland Lamlash, Arran, last night. Several hundred people attended a protest meeting in the local public hall. It was also decided that the committee should approach the Ministry of Transport; Mr Tom Johnston of the Scottish tourist Board; Sir Charles MacAndrew, local M.P., and the L.M.S. Railway Company on this question.”—Daily Record, March 7, 1947
“Arran pier reopening campaign. — Another stage in the campaign by the people of Arran for the reopening of Lamlash Pier has been decided upon by the committee appointed at a recent public meeting. They will ascertain the expenditure involved in the repair of the pier and then negotiate with the Arran Estates, Ltd., and the Ministry of Transport to have the work carried out. The Duke of Montrose has indicated that while sympathetic to the repair and reopening of the pier, he could not recommend Arran Estates Ltd., to take any further action until the result was known of the Government’s attitude towards piers under the Transport Bill now before Parliament.”—Scotsman, April 5, 1947
“Lamlash pier repairs.—At Bute County Council meeting yesterday, a letter was read from the solicitors to the Arran Estate stating that the cost of repairing Lamash Pier was more than the trustees felt justified in incurring. The trustees had been definitely informed that the Transport Commission did not intend to take over the pier. If the County Council considered the pier at Lamlash a necessity for the maintenance of communications in Arran, the trustees were prepared to transfer the pier to the Council . The Council agreed to ask the trustees to intimate the terms on which they would be willing to transfer the pier enabling the proposal to be considered .”—Scotsman, October 6, 1948
In the middle of 1949, the Ministry of Transport approved a plan to reopen the pier, to be funded by increased pier dues.
“Lamlash pier may be reopened—Lamlash pier, Arran, is likely to be reopened for steamer calls this summer. For the past five years the pier has been closed because of its condition. Mr D. Jeffrey Aitken, a Glasgow solicitor. who has been acting on behalf of the people of Lamlash, stated yesterday that as a result of negotiations between the Railway Executive and the pier trustees he was very hopeful that the repair work would be ordered at an early date and the need for urgency impressed on the contractors.”—Scotsman, April 29, 1952
However, the hint of success was short lived.
“Lamlash wants pier open for steamers.—It was announced yesterday that Lamlash Pier Facilities Committee, acting on behalf of people of Lamlash and district, on the Island of Arran, are raising an action to-day in the Court of Session, Edinburgh, of Declarator and Interdict against Arran Piers, Limited, and the trustees of Arran Estates for their failure to open Lamlash Pier for steamer traffic.
“The committee, through their legal agent, Mr D. Jeffrey Aitken, Glasgow, solicitor, warned Arran Piers, Limited, that unless the pier was opened by April 28 action in Court would be taken. Lamlash Pier Facilities Committee will be represented at the hearing by the Dean of Faculty of Advocates, Sir John Cameron, Q.C., assisted by an Edinburgh advocate. The committee has asked that the pier be kept open and maintained for traffic because of its importance to the tourist industry of the island.”—Scotsman, May 7, 1955
The pier closed in 1955.
“Lamlash pier closing—Interim interdict refused—Lord Migdale, in the Court of Session on Saturday, after a debate by counsel, refused to grant interim interdict against Arran Piers, Ltd., closing Lamlash Pier. Lamlash and District Pier Facilities Committee, a voluntary body of local residents formed in 1947 on a previous suggestion that the pier be closed, are asking the Court to declare that the company were bound to keep the pier open and to maintain it. They also seek interdict against the company or others on their behalf closing the pier. The Dean of the Faculty, for the petitioners, in moving for interim interdict, referred to “plans by the British Transport Commission for the abandonment of Arran, with the exception of one pier.” The commission had intimated that a new ferry vessel was being constructed to ply only between the mainland and Brodick. The Dean said that under the Arran Piers Order Confirmation Act the Company had to keep the pier open for public services unless they could satisfy the Minister of Transport that it should be abandoned. An “out of the blue” announcement made by the company on March 8, that they had no alternative to closing the pier because of its disrepair, indicated they intended to abandon it. The Dean said it was contended by the petitioners that the pier could be repaired without its being closed. The pier was of vital importance to Lamlash, which had a very active tourist trade and was fully booked up for the season.
“By a letter of May 5, the defenders’ solicitors had said: “The position now is that following on receipt of our engineer’s report on the condition of the pier, our clients met British Railways and informed them it would be necessary, in order to provide for the cost of repairs, to charge British Railways the authorised berthing charges on a tonnage basis instead of greatly reduced compounded charges at the moment in force. British Railways then informed our clients that the service to the Island of Arran was being given at a very considerable yearly loss, and that any arrangements which would increase the loss would be clearly unacceptable.” Sir John said it was British Railways’ view that the best and most economic service for the island was a type of ferry service to Brodick. They had stated that such a vessel, costing hundreds of thousands of pounds, was under construction, and they hoped to bring it into service next year. Under no circumstances would it call at Lamlash.
“Mr T. P. McDonald, Q.C., for the defenders, said that the service to Lamlash was only in summer, beginning the end of May, and in the ordinary course of events the pier was not open at present. According to the engineer’s report, it was not possible to carry out temporary or major repairs while the pier was open. He denied that it had been allowed to fall into disrepair, and said £400 had been spent in the last year. “My clients have acted in this matter in the interests of the people of Arran and in the interests of tourists in respect that they have been advised that if this pier were to be open for use by the steamers they would be courting a major disaster. The pier is in such condition that it cannot be used without risk.” Mr McDonald said talks were proposed between all parties interested in the future of Lamlash pier. Lord Migdale said he had to decide the question of interim interdict on balance of convenience, and found that the balance lay with leaving the pier closed because he was informed that it was unsafe to use Counsel for the Pursuers—The Dean of Faculty and Mr J. A. Dick; Solicitors—Weir & Macgregor, S.S.C. Edinburgh. Counsel for the Defenders—Mr T.P. McDonald. Q.C., and Mr J. A. Cowan W.S.; Solicitors—Pirie, Ireland & Co., W.S. Edinburgh.”—Scotsman, May 9, 1955
An inquiry was held in Lamlash the following year.
“Pier damaged by insects—Steamers Diverted From Lamlash—Arran Inquiry—Two reasons were given yesterday for the diversion of British Railways steamer traffic from Lamlash to Brodick. One was an “alarming report” on the serious damage done to the pier by burrowing marine insects. The other was the commission’s policy of concentrating steamer traffic at one terminal port on the island of Arran. At the inquiry which began at Lamlash yesterday the commissioner, Mr E.J. Keith, Q.C. Edinburgh, heard evidence from parties concerned in the application by Arran Piers, Ltd, owners of Lamlash pier, to the Minister of Transport and Civil Aviation for an order to abandon the 60-year-old pier. The owners contend the pier is in a dangerous condition, and that a temporary repair would last only five years, when a complete rebuilding would be necessary, at an estimated cost of £25,000. Berthing charges would have to be increased substantially if these repairs were carried out. This, they argue, would reduce the service of public transport to the island. In a memorandum they declare also that the use of Lamlash pier is unnecessary for the island’s public transport. The hearing continues to-day.”—Scotsman, June 27, 1956
“Increased rates would follow pier repairs—Dangerous for Whole of Arran—If the capital needed to repair Lamlash pier is incurred, and the increased rates exatracted from the British Transport Commission, then the public transport service to the whole island will be jeopardized. The claim was made by Mr T.P. McDonald, Q.C., Edinburgh, counsel for Arran Piers, Ltd, yesterday at the final hearing of the inquiry into an application by the company to the Minister of Transport and Civil Aviation for an Order to abandon the derelict and decayed pier in the village. Mr. McDonald submitted that the only inference one could take from the attitude of Bute County Council, who had stated quite categorically that they had no interest in taking over the pier, was that the Council were satisfied that it was not necessary for the welfare, either of the village or of Arran as a whole. He agreed that the loss of day trippers would be felt by some shopkeepers but he said, they lived in an era of change and they must adapt themselves to modern conditions. The mere fact that some people in Lamlash in a year or two suffered losses of turnover was no substantial ground on which it could be said that the British Transport Commission’s policy was wrong.
“When it was announced that the Commission are to introduce a new dual purpose vessel on the Arran run next year Mr. John A Dick, Q.C. counsel for the objectors, Lamlash Pier Facilities Committee, said that the future policy of the commission was of no great interest or relevancy to the inquiry. In his final address, Mr Dick alleged that Arran Piers, Ltd., had had no statutory authority to close the pier. There was sufficient evidence to prove there was a public demand for it, and it was significant that the company had made no attempt to bring one witness from the whole population of the village to show that Brodick was a reasonable and adequate alternative to Lamlash. “Here we have from a navigational point of view the best pier and harbor in the Clyde, an acknowledged refuge for ships, an all weather pier. It is not surprising that the whole community were most anxious at all costs to keep the pier open.
“Details of a new dual purpose vessel to be delivered to British railways on January 31 for service on the Arran run were given earlier by Mr. John Aiken Gunn, traffic assistant, Clyde Steamer Services. The vessel will be the largest ship in British Railways Clyde diesel-driven car ferry fleet. The vessel would be of 1100 gross registered tons and would carry about 1000 passengers and 40 cars. In addition it would carry about 40 tons of cargo and would be able to load and discharge at Brodick at any state of the tide. Mr. Gunn said that the new vessel would operate two return services per day during the winter months, and during the summer months there would be “a more frequent service.” When the inquiry ended the Commissioner announced that he would make his report to the Minister in due course.”—Scotsman, June 29, 1956
The final notice came in March, 1957.
“Lamlash is to lose its pier—Lamlash, one of Arran’s most popular holiday resorts, is to lose its 60-year-old pier. A statutory order was issued to-day by the Minister of Transport and Civil Aviation releasing the pier company from liability for maintenance and authorising the abandonment of the pier. The order stipulates that the company shall remove the pier at their own expense within 12 months, or within such longer period as the Minister may decide. So ends the fight by the 900 residents of Lamlash to keep the pier. The order is the outcome of a public inquiry held in Lamlash last June when vigorous local opposition was voiced against the company’s plan to abandon the pier. It was pleaded that Lamlash “would be affected by creeping paralysis and would gradually decay” if the pier was removed. Six steamer services were withdrawn in 1955, and the inquiry was told that the community had lost about £15,000 a year in business. The inquiry was also told that Lamlash pier was unsafe for steamers and that there was risk of a major accident if it were used. An Edinburgh firm of civil engineers reported that it would be courting disaster to keep the pier open.”—Edinburgh Evening News, March 5, 1957
Despite the loss of its pier and steamer connections, Lamlash thrived as a holiday center. It is the administrative hub of Arran, and its famous sheltered bay remains as a refuge to sea-borne traffic.
“Clyde Piers,” Joy Monteith and Ian McCrorie, Inverclyde District Libraries, Greenock, 1982
“History of the Villages of the Isle of Arran.” Joan Basford (Convener), S.W.R.I., Arran, 1983.
“The Book of Arran,” W. M. Mackenzie, The Arran Society of Glasgow, Glasgow, 1914
“History of the County of Bute,” John Eaton Reid, Thomas Murray & Sons, Glasgow, 1864
“Days at the Coast,” Hugh Macdonald, Andrew Duthie, Glasgow, 1865
“Picturesque Arran,” W. M. M., W. H. & Co., Ltd. Glasgow, c. 1925
“Buchanan’s Tour Round Arran by Brodick Castle,” Robert Anderson, Glasgow, c. 1880
“The Isle of Arran,” Robert McLellan, David & Charles, Newton Abbot, 1970