The village of Brodick owes its origins to Brodick bay, a natural harbour sheltered from the prevailing winds, and the presence of the castle that dates to ancient times. In the 15th century, the castle was granted to the James, the first Lord Hamilton, and his son was created the first Earl of Arran. The family title was raised to a Dukedom early in the 17th century but the male line of direct succession died out in 1651, and the title passed to the Duchess Anne. Although the castle changed hands on many occasions in that turbulent period, it was after the Cromwellian occupation in the 17th century that Duchess Anne Hamilton married William Douglas who assumed the dukedom, taking the name of Hamilton. The Castle remained in poor condition, used mainly as a hunting resort, until the 10th Duke, Alexander, added a modern wing in 1844 as a residence for his son William, who a year earlier had married Princess Marie of Baden.
Brodick Castle (Valentine)
By the 1840s, steamboat communication was well established at Brodick and Lamlash. Prior to the advent of the steamboat, communication with the Isle of Arran was by sailing packet to Saltcoats or Ardrossan. Below Brodick Castle, a quay and a small enclosed harbour was built by the Government when the sailing packet was first introduced. Subsequently the steamboats called off this quay, and passengers were landed by boat.
Steamboats visited Arran regularly from about the 1820s, and the build-up in service over the following twenty years is worthy of some attention.
The Largs and Millport steamer, Glasgow, and the Rothesay steamer, Neptune, were some of the first to offer excursions to Arran.
“The Glasgow steam boat sails from this on Tuesday first, at half-past ten o’clock morning, for Greenock, Gourock, Largs, Millport, and Ardrossan, and returns on Wednesday to Glasgow. Sails again for Largs, on Wednesday afternoon, and on Thursday morning (if the weather is favourable) proceeds thence to Arran, merely for a pleasure sail, and returns to Largs in the evening.—Glasgow, 17th July, 1819.”—Glasgow Herald, July 19, 1819
“The Neptune Steamboat, Captain Kirkwood, sails on Saturday morning for Greenock, Gourock, Rothesay, and Brodick & Lamlash Bays, Arran, and returns same night to Rothesay. She will again sail on Tuesday first from Glasgow to Inverary, calling at Greenock, Gourock, Rothsay, Port-Bannatyne, and the usual places in Lochfine, and return on Wednesday. Passengers may therefore rely on being taken to or from Rothesay every lawful day during the season. Hour of sailing to be seen on the boards.—Glasgow 20th July 1820.”
The following year, the Largs and Millport steamer, Albion, made similar sailings.
“On Saturday forenoon, a respectable party sailed with the Albion steam boat, on a voyage of pleasure to Arran. A Clergyman happened to be among the number, and he was politely requested by the Captain and passengers to preach them a sermon on the Sunday. With this request he cheerfully complied, and accordingly on the Sunday, at 12 o’clock, the Captain and crew, along with the passengers and a number of villagers, assembled on a fine green under the shade of some tall spreading trees near Brodick Inn, where they heard an excellent discourse. When the service was ended, two of the passengers went round the hearers with their hats, and considering the numbers, gathered a liberal collection. An elder was sent for, and consulted concerning the most proper objects of charity; and the money was given to the most deserving.”—Glasgow Herald, July 6, 1821
“Steam boat Albion will sail on Saturday the 28th instant, for Greenock, Gourock, Auldkirk, Largs, Millport and Brodick, Island of Arran, and will return on Monday. The Albion will continue to sail during the remainder of the season to and from Greenock, Gourock, Auldkirk, Largs and Millport. Hours of sailing to be seen on the boards.—Glasgow, 26th July, 1821.
Calls at Brodick were also made by the Campbeltown steamer, Britannia.
“The steam vessel Britannia, Captain Wyse, will sail from Glasgow on the morning of Saturday the 28th July, 1821, at ten o’clock, calling at Greenock, Gourock, Rothsay, and Brodick Bay, at the foot of Goatfell in the Island of Arran, and thence to Campbelton. The Britannia will return to Glasgow on Monday, calling at the usual places.”
The new steamer for the Largs and Millport station was touted to provide occasional Arran sailings, signalling the growing popularity of the Island as a tourist destination.
“The new Steamboat Largs, Captain Kay, will sail from the Broomielaw on Saturday next, for Greenock, Gourock, Innerkip, Largs, and Millport, and return on Monday. Hour of sailing to be seen on the boards. The proprietors beg leave to announce, that this boat has been built, more with the view of accommodating the public frequenting the coast, than of any personal emolument to themselves. She has been built in the most substantial manner, and her interior subdivisions, for elegance and accommodation, as well as her rate of sailing, will be found superior to any boat of her description on the river. She will ply on the above station as far as Ardrossan, and occasionally to Arran, during the season. They have engaged steady and experienced hands for navigating the vessel, and she will be regularly supplied with liquors and provisions of the very best quality. They have also made arrangements, by which every facility and accommodation will be afforded by the Albion steam boat to those who sail in the Largs, which may be learned by applying to the captain on board, or to William White, confectioner, Hutchison Street.—Glasgow, 6th June, 1822.”
Excursions from the Ayrshire coast were carried out, generally with the steamer from Glasgow spending an extra day based at Ardrossan, from where the Arran excursion took place.
“On Saturday last, while the Glasgow steam-boat was preparing to proceed on a pleasure sail from Ardrossan to Arran, a considerable number of people were assembled on the quay, being chiefly attracted thither to hear the excellent Kilwinning band of music perform a few tunes previous to the boat’s sailing. A few minutes after boat had been put off, the spectators were thrown into the greatest alarm from a boy falling over the quay into the sea, the water being very deep, and the height of the quay about 20 feet. The danger of rendering any assistance to the little boy appeared so great that no hopes were entertained he could be saved: at last, when the little creature was just on the eve of sinking, George Kelso, collier in Stevenston, in the most bold and intrepid manner, leaped from the quay, into the deep, and at the peril of his own life, kept the child above the water till a small boat was procured from a sloop lying at anchor.”—British Press, July 5, 1823
The first regular steamboat services were from Glasgow, by the Castle steamers, in 1822. The previous year, on June 23 1821, the Inverary Castle was advertised to sail at seven o’clock in the morning for the Island of Arran, calling at Port-Glasgow, Greenock, Gourock, Rothesay, Brodick, and Lamlash, and returning on Monday. This was repeated two weeks later on July 6th.
“The Inverary Castle Steam Packet, Captain Johnston, will sail from Broomielaw on Saturday morning the 23rd instant, at seven o’clock, for the Isle of Arran, calling at Port-Glasgow, Greenock, Gourock, Rothesay, Brodick, and Lamlash; will remain at Lamlash till Monday, and leave thence early that morning for Glasgow.—21st June, 1821.”—Glasgow Herald, June 22, 1821
Inverary Castle
However, early in 1822, a third steamer, Toward Castle, was added to augment the Inverary Castle and Rothsay Castle, and this allowed a weekly sailing during the season, on Saturdays, to Brodick and Lamlash, returning on Monday mornings. At this time, the steamers were owned by separate companies, although there were owners in common, and this allowed a degree of cooperation and a significant business advantage.
“The Rothsay Castle steam packet, Captain Brown, will sail from the Broomielaw on Tuesday the 21st instant, at eleven o’clock forenoon, for Greenock, Gourock, Rothesay, and Brodick Bay, Arran, and return the same evening to Rothesay.—18th May, 1822”
“The Inverary Castle steam packet, Captain Thomson, will sail from the Broomielaw for Greenock, Gourock, Rothsay, Brodick and Lamlash, Isle of Arran, on Saturday the 24th August, at seven o’clock morning, and return to Glasgow on Monday.—23rd August, 1822
The Arran call continued for many years with the three Castle steamers rotating during the season. As business grew, an additional call on Wednesday was added, returning to Rothesay in the evening until about 1825, when the steamer lay over in Brodick Bay and returned the following morning. The call on Saturday generally laid over till Monday morning, although on a few occasions, the steamer returned as far as Rothesay on Sunday evening. When Dunoon Castle was added to the fleet in 1826, this allowed Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday sailings to Brodick during the season, returning the following lawful day.
A winter service began with a call once a month in January, then once a week into the season in April. By 1829, the winter service was fortnightly. In the absence of the steamer, the sailing packet, Earl of Arran, carried the mails.
Excursions by other steamers continued through the period.
“Steam-boat sailing,—The facilities which the introduction of steam vessels now afford of visiting places formerly deemed inaccessible, are every day becoming more apparent; and a trip which lately occupied eight or ten days, may now, by the aid of steam, be accomplished in almost as many hours. We have been led to these remarks in consequence or a sail which took place last week In the steam-boat Helensburgh.—This fine vessel left Greenock at eight o’clock in the morning, proceeded to Rothsay, and from thence through the Kyles of Bute, to Loch Ranza, situated at the north end of Arran, so famed for the lofty and rugged appearance of its mountains. The vessel then proceeded along the west coast of that island, and passed round its southern extremities, going close under Pladda with its double lighthouse; and after calling at Lamlash, Brodick, Millport, Fairly, and Largs, reached Helensburgh at nine, p.m., having, in a short space of 13 hours, gone completely round the islands of Bute and Arran, and sailed up-wards of 150 miles, through some of the finest scenery of Scotland. The excursion was most delightful, and the dinner and wines, as well as the whole arrangements, were so excellent, as to give the most complete satisfaction to the whole party, consisting of about 60 ladies and gentlemen, chiefly proprietors of the vessel, and their friends.”—Glasgow Herald, September 5, 1825
In the early 1830s, the Castle Company went through some growing pains. Changes in taxation on steamboats and concern that some of the vessels, though well maintained, were showing signs of age, induced some owners to withdraw their participation. Up till that time, the steamers were all owned by separate companies although they cooperated in service. The Rothsay Castle was sold, as was the Toward Castle. The Inverary Castle, Dunoon Castle, and Arran Castle of 1830 were exposed for sale, only to be repurchased or retained by a consortium of the old, and some new owners, forming the Castle Steam Packet Co. The fleet was augmented with the new Windsor Castle, a wooden steamer built by Messrs John Wood, Port-Glasgow, and engined by Messrs Robert Napier, in 1832.
“Royal Mail Packets.—Windsor Castle, Arran Castle, Dunoon Castle, Inverary Castle.—These well known steamers are now appointed to sail as follows, till further notice:—Windsor Castle or Arran Castle for Greenock, Gourock, Dunoon, and Rothesay, every lawful day, at six morning, twelve noon, and five afternoon, returning from Rothesay to Glasgow about the same hours.
“For Arran, every Wednesday and Saturday at twelve noon, leaving Arran for Glasgow every Monday and Thursday, at eight o’clock morning.
“From Greenock for Glasgow and Rothesay, every lawful day about eight morning and two and seven afternoon.
“The Dunoon Castle for Greenock, Rothesay, Tarbert, Lochgilphead, and Inverary,—Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday morning as near half past seven o’clock morning as tide will permit.—See the Boards. And from Inverary to Glasgow at, six o’clock morning, on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, calling at all the intermediate places.
“No departures from Glasgow on Monday morning, or from Rothesay on Wednesday and Saturday evening.
“The mid-day and evening hours of sailing have been fixed with a particular view to the accommodation of families and men of business in and around Glasgow, and of travellers from Edinburgh and the South by the morning and mid-day coaches. Goods and parcels are forwarded to the foregoing and intermediate places if left at the Castle Co.’s store and office, 23, Anderson Quay, Broomielaw.— Glasgow, 14th June, 1832.
“N.B.—The proprietors will not hold themselves liable for the consequences of detention caused by accident, nor responsible for goods and passengers’ luggage, unless the freight be paid and the receipt granted.”—Scots Times, June 30, 1832
During this period, the Castle Company also experienced strong competition from newer and faster steamers associated with David Napier. While this was mainly on the Rothesay station and the route to Inveraray and the Highlands and Islands, it extended to sailings to Arran. On the morning of August 20, 1832, Napier’s new Earl Grey, lying over Sunday in Brodick Bay, caught fire and was scuttled to prevent her total loss.
“Earl Grey Steam Boat.—Between one and two o’clock Monday morning, while the steamer Earl Grey was riding at anchor in Brodick Bay, Island of Arran she was discovered to be on fire. The fire had got so complete hold of her, and was so impetuous in its ramifications, that every effort on the part of the crew to arrest its progress was wholly unavailing; and to prevent the vessel from being totally consumed, they sunk her in between six and seven fathoms water. There were no lives lost. It supposed the fire originated somewhere about the boiler. The captain and crew arrived in the evening at Glasgow.”— Glasgow Herald, August 24, 1832
“Earl Grey Scuttled. —The Earl Grey steam-boat took fire on Monday morning at Brodick. It being found impossible save her from the flames, she was scuttled, and sunk in five fathoms of water. Some of the stores and cabin furniture have been saved.”
“The Earl Grey, Brodick Bay, Arran, 28th August, 1832.—I was more sorry than surprised, on my arrival here some days ago, to find Earl Grey in a sinking state. The Earl, with the whole of the crew, were for a length of time between fire and water, and little imagined that the sparks their own hands had (innocently as they supposed) ignited, were to burst out into so destructive a flame. But so it has happened—the Cabin, it has been destroyed—no longer is the pilot able to steer the vessel through impending storms—the safety valves proved useless—and those bulwarks that were once the glorious protection of the Earl, have now mouldered into ashes. It has been supposed by some that the Earl may again be righted; this, however, is not probable, considering the injuries that have been sustained in endeavouring to save by water what must have perished by fire. The Earl’s career was short but popular, and all held in esteem, powers, which, in the hour of danger, proved of but little avail. It was an impression illustrative of the mutability of human affairs, to see the beautiful machinery, modelled on the latest principles of improvement and reform, in a few hours reduced to total inability, and the Earl towed into dock by sheer physical force, there to undergo the repairs necessary for so long an exposure to the action of inflammatory principles.—(From a Correspondent of the Glasgow Courier.)”—Albion and the Star, September 4, 1832
Others also challenged the Castle Steamers on the Arran route. The Apollo was a wooden steamer 131 feet in length and build by Messrs Hunter & Dow at Kelvinhaugh. She had a powerful engine of 100 h.p. supplied by Messrs Wingate, who ran her on their own account.
“Notice.—The new steamer Apollo will sail on Saturday the 22d instant, at a quarter past eight o’clock morning, for Greenock, Gourock, Dunoon, Rothsay, Largs, Ardrossan, and Brodick Bay, and will return on Monday, calling at the same places. It is intended that this vessel shall continue to ply as above, leaving Glasgow every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday; and Arran every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.—Glasgow, 19th September, 1832.”—Glasgow Herald, September 21, 1832.
The following year, Apollo dropped the Arran call, but continued on the Ayr station. The Castle steamers provided the regular service as in previous years, having seen off the opposition.
“Royal Mail Steam Packets.—Windsor Castle, Captain Thompson; Dunoon Castle, Captain Currie; Arran Castle, Captain Barr; Inverary Castle, Captain Cansdell.—The public are respectfully informed that the above well-known steam packets will immediately commence plying for the season between Glasgow, Greenock, Gourock, Dunoon, Rothesay, Arran, and Lochfine. In order to accommodate the public and suit the convenience of visitors to these watering places, the Castles’ Company have made arrangements for three departures from Glasgow, and the same from Rothesay every lawful day; but on every alternate day there will be four departures from each of these places, besides a conveyance to Arran every Wednesday and Saturday, returning on Monday and Thursday, and to Lochfine every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday returning on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. The hours of sailing in the morning and afternoon will be regulated so as to accommodate gentlemen in business, whilst the convenience of families will be studied in the forenoon and midday departures.
“All these packets have recently undergone extensive improvements both in their machinery and accommodations; and from the tried experience and well known abilities of the respective masters and stewards, the public may rely on every attention being paid to their comfort and convenience, and on every facility being afforded to the shipping and landing of whatever luggage they may have occasion to carry with them.
“From and after the 1st of May next, the Company will be ready to dispose of tickets, granting the privilege of sailing in any of their packets, between Glasgow and Rothesay, and all intermediate ports at the under-mentioned rates:—For one month 10s.; For the half season (ending 31st July) 25s.; For the whole season (ending 31st Oct.) 42s. Tickets are not transferable. Tickets to be procured at the companies office only.
“Proprietors of season, or half season tickets, are respectfully informed that all parcels or baskets (left with any of the agents or boatmen of the Co., at the different watering places and addressed to them in Glasgow, will be carried free of all expense to their Office, at the Broomielaw, where they may remain till called for; or if required, they will be sent to any place in town by the Company’s porters, at a small charge, to be regulated by a book kept in the office; a copy of which each of the porters shall carry along with him, and no extra charge beyond what is marked in the Manager’s book.
“N.B.—Passengers’ luggage will be at their own risk, but all goods specially entered carried at the Company’s risk, at a moderate charge. The hours of sailing to be seen on the boards.—John Anderson, Manager Castles’ Steam Packet Office, Broomielaw, Glasgow, April 18, 1833.”—Scots Times, April 27, 1833
It was in 1834 that the Castle Company introduced a service from the Ayrshire coast to the Island of Arran. The veteran Inverary Castle sailed to Brodick from Troon where she connected with the horse-drawn railway from Kilmarnock. Ardrossan was included as a call in 1834. The following year, Ardrossan was the Ayrshire terminus with a connecting coach from Kilmarnock.
“Royal Mail Steam Packets.—The Glasgow Castles Steam-Packet Co. beg leave respectfully to inform the public, that having this year added a new and substantial packet to their establishment, they have commenced plying between Glasgow, Rothesay, and the intermediate ports, according to the following arrangements: viz.—From Glasgow to Rothesay, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 5 morning, by Dunoon; every day, at 6 morning, direct to Rothesay; every day, at half-past 10 forenoon, by Dunoon; every day, at 1 afternoon, by Dunoon; every day, at 4 afternoon, by Dunoon. From Rothesay to Glasgow every day, direct to Glasgow, at six morning; every day, by Dunoon, at 10 forenoon; every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, by Dunoon, at half-past 12 noon; every day; by Dunoon, at 3 afternoon. From Rothesay to Dunoon only, every day at 5 afternoon. From Dunoon to Glasgow, every day, at 6 morning; every day, at 11 forenoon; every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at half-past 1 afternoon; every day, at 4 afternoon. From Glasgow to Tarbert, Lochgilphead, and Inverary, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 5 morning, returning to Glasgow the following days.
“In addition to the above arrangement, in order to keep up the regular communication with Arran, and for the accommodation of parties from the Ayrshire coast, one of the company’s packets will leave Ardrossan every forenoon at 10, for Brodick, where she will remain until 5 afternoon, and then return to Ardrossan. Every Wednesday and Saturday, the above packet, on her arrival at Brodick, will proceed on to Rothesay, where she will meet and exchange passengers with the packet leaving Glasgow at half-past 10 forenoon, and returned to Brodick and Ardrossan the same evening.
“From the long established regularity of the Castles Steam Packets, and the well known attention and civility of the masters and stewards, the proprietors trust they will still continue to receive their share of the public patronage.—John Anderson, Manager, Castles Steam Packet Office, Broomilaw, Glasgow, 11th July, 1835.
Salt Water Gazette, June 1835
Although the Inverary Castle was described as extensively improved in both speed and comfort, she had been advertised for sale in the spring, and was disposed of the following year to sail out of Oban. Duncan M‘Kellar added a larger and more successful vessel, Victor, in 1836, so that his older steamer, Hero, was available to consolidate the Ardrossan to Arran route. Hero had been built by Messrs William Denny, Dumbarton, in 1832 and her machinery produced by Robert Napier. She was a reliable steamer for the station.
“Ardrossan and Arran steamer.—The proprietors of the steamer Hero begged to return their sincere thanks for the encouragement they have received on this station during the season, and they have now to intimate that the Hero will discontinue plying after Saturday next, the 1st October.—Glasgow 29th Sept 1836.”
The Castle Company continued to sail from Glasgow to Arran twice a week in 1836.
“Steamers to Arran.—The public is respectfully informed that the Castle Steam Packet Company will cease plying their packets to and from Arran for the season after Monday the 10th October. They will sail to Brodick and Lamlash as usual, every Wednesday and Saturday, until that date.—Glasgow 28th Sept 1836.”
In 1837, Hero was recalled to the Glasgow and Millport sailings, and the connection between Bodick and Ardrossan was taken up by the Leven. This old wooden steamer, dating from 1824, had been surplus after the new iron-hulled Vale of Leven was added to the Dumbarton Company in 1836. Her new owners were R. Jamieson Snr., R. Douglas, W. Fullerton, and T. Graham, and she was registered at Irvine. The owners had strong Arran connections; Mr Robert Jamieson was a resident of Brodick.
A new steamer to replace Leven was ordered from Messrs John Wood & Co., Port Glasgow, for the 1838 season. The Isle of Arran was of wooden flush-decked design, slightly less than 100 feet long with her passenger accommodation below main deck level. She had a single funnel aft of the paddle box and a mast rigged to carry sail and took anything between one and a half and two hours on the passage to Arran. Her engine was of 60 h.p., supplied by Messrs Robert Napier, Glasgow, and she was the first vessel to provide a winter service from Ayrshire. Her initial owners also had strong Arran connections: John Fullerton, Thomas Stoddart, William M‘Kerrol, and others under the name of the Arran Steam Vessel Co., Lamlash.
Although there was a steamer service from Ardrossan to Arran, the connection between Ardrossan and Glasgow remained a difficulty until 1840, when the Ardrossan Railway was completed. During the season in the interim, sailings of the Isle of Arran were timed to await the arrival of the steamer from Glasgow at Ardrossan but this was not a reliable connection and consequently, the Castle Company continued to dominate the Arran sailings from Glasgow by Rothesay.
However, there was competition. In 1835, the Campbelton and Larne steamer, Glenalbyn called at Brodick and Lamlash on Saturdays, returning on Mondays, but the steamer was frequently on longer excursions during the busy part of the season. In 1836, a new venture with the steamer St Mungo sailed to Islay, calling at Arran on the way. She was the first Clyde steamer with a steeple engine.
“Splendid new steamer. The St Mungo is intended to sail in about 10 days from Glasgow to Islay, calling at Arran, going and returning. The St Mungo is fitted up in a superior manner, and will be found equally splendid to any steamer plying from the Clyde, having comfortable sleeping berths, and extensive holds for a general cargo, with large accommodation on deck. The day and hour of sailing will be seen in a future advertisement, and for future particulars apply to Mr Colin M‘Kenzie, 10, St Enoch Square.—Glasgow 25th April 1836.
“Splendid new steamer St Mungo, will sail for Lamlash, Arran, and Bowmore, Islay on Saturday (to-morrow), the 14th instant, at twelve o’clock noon, and will leave Islay on Tuesday 17th, (calling at Port-Charlotte, Port-Helen, and Lamlash.) The St Mungo is fitted up in a superior manner, and will be found equally splendid to any steamer plying from the Clyde, having comfortable sleeping berths, and extensive holds for a general cargo, with large accommodation on deck. The day of sailing being now fixed, should the St Mungo meet with liberal encouragement she is intended to ply weekly from this to Islay, which will be found an excellent direct conveyance for passengers and goods, her speed being equal, if not superior, to any steamer sailing from this port. All goods must be alongside half-an-hour before sailing. For further particulars apply to Mr Colin M‘Kenzie ,10, St Enoch Square.—13th May, 1836”
The venture was short lived, and by July she was sailing to Ardrossan.
The strongest opposition to the Castle Company came from the Largs and Millport steamers. In the early part of 1835, the fast, pioneer iron steamer, Fairy Queen, sailed to Arran by way of Largs and Millport three times a week, returning the following days. Once the high season began, and excursion traffic picked up, these sailings were curtailed to Saturdays, returning on Mondays.
“Conveyance between Glasgow, Greenock, Gourock, Largs, Millport, Ardrossan, Brodick, and Lamlash.—The steamer Fairy Queen, William M‘Kinlay, master, will commence sailing for the above places on Saturday the 24th inst., and will continue to ply on that station until further notice, leaving Glasgow every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at half-past seven o’clock, morning, and returning to Glasgow every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, calling at these places on her passage up.—Glasgow 21st April, 1835.”—Glasgow Herald, April 24, 1835
“Fairy Queen,—The Fairy will, on Tuesday first, the 30th of June, commence her trips of going and returning the same day. She will leave the Broomielaw as at present, at half-past seven morning, and return to Glasgow in the evening. Her trips to Arran in future will be seen on the boards; and passengers going and returning same day will have an hour at Millport, and two hours at Largs.”—Glasgow Herald, June 29, 1835
“The steamer Fairy Queen will sail every Saturday, at half-past seven o’clock morning, for Brodick and Lamlash, calling at Greenock, Gourock, Largs, and Millport, and return on Mondays, calling at the above ports.”—Glasgow Herald, July 3, 1835
Salt Water Gazette, July 1835
The Arran connection might not have been remunerative, as in 1836, the Fairy Queen sailed to Largs and Millport only, and was sold to owners on the Mersey in the middle of the season. Once again, the Castle Steam Packet Company maintained their dominance on the sailings from Glasgow, but this was not to last.
“Royal Mail Steam Packets.—Rothesay Castle, Tarbert Castle, Edinburgh Castle, Dunoon Castle, Windsor Castle, Arran Castle.—The Glasgow Castle Steam Packet Company respectfully announce that on and after Monday the 5th June, their sailing arrangements for the season will be as under:—From Glasgow, at six morning for Lochfine by Dunoon and Rothesay; ten forenoon for Dunoon; half-past ten forenoon for Rothesay & Port Bannatyne direct; One afternoon for Rothesay by Dunoon; four afternoon for Rothesay direct; half-past five afternoon for Dunoon. From Rothesay, at six morning for Glasgow direct; nine morning for Glasgow by Dunoon; one afternoon for Glasgow by Dunoon; half-past four afternoon for Glasgow by Dunoon. From Dunoon for Glasgow, at six morning; ten forenoon; one afternoon; two afternoon; half-past five afternoon. From Gourock for Glasgow, at half-past six morning; seven morning; half-past ten forenoon, half-past one afternoon; half-past two afternoon; six afternoon.
“From Glasgow to Arran, every Wednesday and Saturday at one afternoon returning to Glasgow every Monday and Thursday morning.—John Anderson, Manager, Castle Steam Packet Office, Glasgow, 1st June, 1837.”
In the early part of 1838, the Isle of Bute sailed for Brodick and Lamlash. The Isle of Bute along with her consort, Maid of Bute, had strongly challenged on the Rothesay station in 1835 but had been run off by the greater resources of the Castle Company despite their local Rothesay ownership.
“Notice.—The Isle of Bute Royal Mail Steam Packet will sail from Glasgow for Brodick and Lamlash, on Wednesday the 4th, and Saturday the 7th April proxime, at two o’clock afternoon, calling at Greenock, Gourock, and Rothesay, and will return from Lamlash to Glasgow on Thursday the 5th, at 4 o’clock morning, and from Lamlash to Rothesay on the evening of Saturday the 7th.—Glasgow, 31st March, 1838
This service was continued in the early part of 1839.
“The Isle of Bute, Royal Mail Steam Packet, will sail for Brodick and Lamlash, on Tuesday the 26th, and Thursday the 28th current at 2 o’clock p.m., calling at Greenock, Gourock, Dunoon, and Rothesay. Should the weather not permit on the above days, she will proceed on the following.—Rothesay, 21st Feb., 1839.”—Glasgow Herald, February 22, 1839
More significant was the extension of Captain M‘Kellar’s Largs and Millport steamer, Victor, to sail for Brodick and Lamlash on Saturday afternoons, returning on Monday mornings. This was possible as M‘Kellar had added a new wooden steamer, Warrior, for the Largs and Millport station
“Brodick and Lamlash, Arran.—The steamer Victor, Capt. Houston, sails on Saturday at 12 o’clock noon, for Largs, Millport, Ardrossan, Brodick, and Lamlash; and will leave Lamlash for Glasgow on Monday morning at 6 o’clock, and Brodick at 7.”—Glasgow Herald, May 3, 1839
The end of the Castle Company’s dominance on the Arran route came on the heels of the opening of the Ardrossan Branch of the Glasgow, Paisley, Kilmarnock & Ayr Railway in 1840. Traveling by train to Ardrossan and thence by the Isle of Arran to Brodick and Lamlash was much faster, and the railway and steamboat owners made sure that the connections were well advertised and maintained. Although more expensive than sailing all the way from Glasgow, the new route took most of the cabin-fare-paying passengers. The route by Rothesay became, in the words of Robert Reid “elastic of arrangement, known as “now and then”.” Although occasional sailings were made from Rothesay, the business was effectively ceded to the Isle of Arran and the Largs and Millport steamers.
Unlike Ardrossan and Ayr, Largs and Millport were not served by the railway. The steamboat provided the main access to the popular summer resorts and in the early 1840s, earned considerable profits. Intense competition between the steamers Victor and Invincible of the Messrs M‘Kellar and the Lady Kelburne and Lady Brisbane of Messrs Young is recorded in a previous article. After Mr Young retired, the two factions amalgamated under the Glasgow, Largs & Millport Union Steam Boat Co., and for nearly twenty years, maintained a monopoly of the business that included daily sailings to Brodick and Lamlash during the season. Winter sailings were also provided for.
By the 1850s, the Island of Arran was well served with steamer communications during the season, and tourist traffic was expanding. The main complaint of visitors was the lack of accommodation on the island. There was an inn near the harbour at Brodick, and many of the houses in the adjacent village also rented rooms, but space was at a premium.
The old Duke of Hamilton died in 1852, and the 11th Duke, William, with his stronger affinity to Brodick Castle made some changes in relatively short order. Perhaps it was the smoke from the cottages and steamers, or perhaps it was the ever increasing number of visitors, or simply that the new Duke wanted some separation between his home and the homes of those who lived and worked on the island; but in an effort to improve the castle environs, the old village of Brodick at Cladach was decanted over the Rosa Burn to Invercloy. At Strathwhillan, on the side of the bay farthest from the castle, the Douglas Hotel was built in 1856. Alma Terrace was built to rehouse some of those displaced from old Brodick, and a new quay for landing passengers from the steamers was made at the mouth of the Strathwhillan Burn about same time. Further new building took place with a school, and a terrace of housing at Douglas Place on the west side of the Rosa Burn. This latter terrace was used to rehouse estate workers from the old Brodick at Cladach. The houses of the old Brodick were demolished two years later to extend parkland around the Castle.
Old Brodick before demolition
Improvements also took place elsewhere on the island. Hunting lodges were built at Dougarie and Dippin, and there was a more lenient view of feuing in some of the villages. However, there was no movement to supply a pier to encourage visitors.
“Arran.—On Saturday morning last it blew quite a gale at this island. The steamer Venus, which carries off the morning passengers, could not lie-to at the quay at Lamlash on account of the state of the tide; and, accordingly, it took the utmost exertions of four stout men to row out the ferry boat to the steamer. This open boat passage was, in short, attended with considerable danger; and the boatmen showed their full appreciation of the fact by refusing to make a second trip with the luggage, which lay on the beach, while the owners proceeded to Glasgow. Such wild weather has rarely been experienced in Arran at the same season of the year. It is to be lamented that the Duke of Hamilton, who is regarded as a generous and liberal minded man, does not build or permit the building of sufficient quays or piers at Brodick and Lamlash. In this respect the island is a quarter of a century behind the other places on the Clyde.”—Glasgow Chronicle, July 26, 1854
Venus
In the early 1850s, the Brodick boatman were Willie Shaw, Donald Fullarton, and Will Douglas, known as the “Earl” on account of his Douglas name. There was a fair amount of banter between the boatmen and the masters of the steamboats. On one occasion, the ferrymen had failed to move the ferry-boat before the tide had gone out, with the result that the ferry was high and dry, and could not be launched to meet the steamer. The following ditty to the tune of “Johny Cope,” was crafted.
“Hey, Willie Shaw, are ye waukened yet,—Or are yer boats afloating yet?—If ye were wauken, I would wit,—Things wudna be like this in the mornin’.”
“The Captain cried, “Get oot yer boats.”—The “Earl” replied, “They widna float.—Tae tak’ them oot we quite forgot—When the tide was up in the mornin’.”
The landing ferry was also moved to the new location at the far end of the bay from the castle.
Brodick Bay after 1856. The Douglas Hotel is on the left.
The new jetty at Brodick around 1865 (Annan)
Douglas Hotel around 1870 (Beckett)
Douglas Hotel around 1870 (Beckett)
Goatfell from the lawn of the Douglas Hotel around 1870 (Beckett)
Invercloy around 1870 (Beckett)
The want of a pier remained problematic. The demise of the M‘Kellar steamers in the 1860s after their best steamers, Jupiter and Juno, were sold to the Confederate States to run the Union blockade, meant that other steamboats stepped in to take their place. The first Eagle, from Glasgow by way of Rothesay, revived the old Castle steamer route, later, there was the Guinevere from Glasgow, and Lancelot and Elaine from Wemyss Bay in connection with the new railhead there.
At Ardrossan too, there were changes. In 1860, the old Isle of Arran was condemned and replaced by a new steamer, Earl of Arran, sailing from Ardrossan to Bodick and Lamlash.
Duke William died in 1863, and the new Duke, less attached to the Island, became involved in the Ardrossan service that carried the Mails for the Island. In 1868, he had the The Lady Mary built by Messrs Blackwood & Gordon, Port Glasgow. The steamer was named after his daughter.
“Yesterday, Messrs Blackwood & Gordon launched from their yard a handsome paddle river steamer, named by Miss Birkmyre, daughter Bailie Birkmyre, The Lady Mary. The steamer is the property of His Grace the Duke of Hamilton, and is to be employed running from Ardrossan to Arran. Her dimensions are—length, 173 feet; beam, 20 feet; depth, 8 feet 6 inches. Her engines are oscillating, and of 110 horse power.”—Greenock Telegraph, June 6, 1868
“Trial Trip.—The passenger steamer Lady Mary, built by Messrs Blackwood and Gordon for the Duke of Hamilton, proceeded down the river yesterday on preliminary trial trip. She steamed very fast.”—Greenock Telegraph, July 10, 1868
The Lady Mary (Alasdair Macfarlane)
“Glasgow to Arran via Ardrossan.—The new steamer The Lady Mary sails from Ardrossan, on arrival of the 7 a.m., 8.55 a.m., and 4.15 p.m. express trains from Glasgow. Returning from Arran for the 8.38 a.m. and 5.15 p.m. trains to Glasgow. N.B.—No luggage taken by the 8.55 a.m. train. Return tickets {available for 14 days}—First class, 5s. 6d.; Second class, 4s.
“Extra trip.—On Saturdays, the steamer will return direct from Lamlash to Ardrossan, in time for the 2.15 p.m. train, leaving Ardrossan again for Brodick and Lamlash on arrival of the 1.15 p.m. express train from Glasgow, and from Lamlash only for Ardrossan at 3.45 p.m., and is expected to connect with the 5.16 train to Glasgow. Passengers from Brodick on Saturdays go on board the steamer on arrival from Ardrossan, either at 11.15 a.m. or 3.15 p.m.—Arran, 15th July, 1868.”—Glasgow Herald, July 16, 1868
Associated with the new steamer, there were some innovations in transport around the island.
“An Omnibus in Arran.—Something like an innovation was on Tuesday introduced in the island of Arran. On the arrival at Lamlash of the Lady Mary steamer from Ardrossan, a commodious three-horse omnibus was in waiting to convey those of the passengers requiring or desirous of going to Whiting Bay and neighbourbood. In consideration that the new and quite unwonted communication had been all but unannounced, the initial trip was fairly patronised, and there can be no doubt will continue to be so. Among other drawbacks to the adoption of Arran as a summer residence, a chief one has hitherto been the difficulty of easy access to some of the most eligible spots in it, which happen to be more or less remote from steamboat communication. The new ’bus, which is to ply regularly in connection with the steamers to Lamlash, will thus unquestionably supply a “felt want.” We learn from eye-witnesses that the interest excited amongst the primitive population along the line of route on Tuesday was something akin to that manifested by unsophisticated navigators of the old school when for the first time they were overhauled by a steamboat.”—Greenock Telegraph, July 16, 1868
In September, sailings were reduced to two daily. During the winter, The Lady May sailed three times a week, on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday in connection with the 10.30 a.m. train from Glasgow, returning the following lawful day to connect with the 2.15 train from Ardrossan. There was a fire on board in February, 1869, but it did not affect the running of the steamer.
“Steamer on fire.—The Ardrossan and Arran steamer Lady Mary was discovered to be on fire about two o’clock on Monday morning, while she lay at Lamlash. The fire broke out in the engine room, and, as immediate steps were taken to suppress it, it was fortunately confined to that part of the steamer, but this was not accomplished without some difficulty. The fore and aft portions of the engine room, however, have been damaged, though not so badly as to prevent the steamer making he usual run to Ardrossan yesterday. The origin of the fire is unknown, as the captain is certain all the fires were out on Sunday night.”—Glasgow Herald, February 2, 1869
The daily sailings in the 1869 season were reduced to two, in connection with the 8 a.m., and 4.15 p.m. expresses from Glasgow and returning to catch the 8.38 a.m. and 5.15 p.m. express trains from Ardrossan. The schedule was similar in 1870. The acknowledgement of the better rail and steamer facilities focused more complaints about the lack of a pier.
“Greenock and Ayrshire Railway—Arran Connection. To the editor of the North British Daily Mail.—Sir,—The above Company now “book” passengers in connection with the steamers Guinevere, Lancelot, and Hero, via Greenock, to Brodick and Lamlash, granting single and return tickets at low rates; and the Glasgow and South-Western Railway Company “book,” as in former years, in connection with the steamer The Lady Mary, via Ardrossan. In consequence of there being no pier at Brodick, and only am apology for one at Lamlash (to which the steamers can rarely approach), with occasional exceptions at the latter, all passengers to and from these favourite and unrivalled watering-places are under the painful necessity of embarking and disembarking by means of small boats, and this in certain states of the weather is by no means an enjoyable or comfortable process, It is not, however, to the lack of the much-to-be-desired pier accommodation that I desire (with your kind permission) to draw public attention, as of this most visitors are already sufficiently aware, but to the somewhat anomalous fact that while all passengers via Ardrossan are safely landed on the respective beaches at Brodick and Lamlash, free of any extra charge; on the contrary, those via Greenock are in every case before leaving the “ferry boat” (complaints and threats notwithstanding) compelled to “fork out” a “ poll tax” of twopence per head to the Celtic “Son of Neptune” in charge; and are, moreover, again made to “dance to a similar tune” when re-embarking. Possibly the fare charged is too low, and is inadequate to defray the additional expense of landing, over and above carrying passengers; but if so, why not increase it, and let it include the ridiculous impost, and thus save the trouble and annoyance (not at times unattended with danger) of searching for stray coppers in a small, and sometimes very unsteady, open boat. Could any of your legal readers say whether this charge could be enforced, or whether the contract made by the railway company to carry a passenger from “Glasgow to Arran” simply necessitates their taking him to Brodick Bay, Lamlash Loch, or any other creek or inlet on the coast of Arran, thereafter allowing him to find his way to land as best he may; or if, on the contrary, they are bound to “deliver him in like good order and condition” at the agreed on “port of discharge,” in the same manner as they would goods or other freight?—I am, &c., Turn-a-Head.”—North British Daily Mail, July 5, 1870
The crew of the landing boat at Brodick around 1870: Robert Hamilton, James Crawford, Archie Fullarton, son of Donald Fullarton, and Archie Douglas, son of the “Earl” mentioned earlier.
While The Lady Mary was a successful improvement over the Earl of Arran, she proved unremarkable in terms of speed and comfort, and a replacement, Heather Bell, was ordered in 1871.
“Port-Glasgow.—Launch.—Yesterday morning a handsomely built and beautifully outlined paddle boat was launched from the yard of Messrs Blackwood &Gordon. She is built to the order of the Duke of Hamilton, who intends her as a passenger boat to ply between Ardrossan and Arran, in place of the Lady Mary. In length she is 205 by 21 by 9 feet 6 inches. Her cabins are chastely veneered; and, in fact, the whole fittings are of the most splendid description. Her engines are diagonal and of 150 horse-power. On leaving the slip amid much cheering, she was named the Heather Bell by Mrs Patterson, wife of his Grace’s chamberlain.”—Glasgow Herald, May 3, 1871
The new steamer was introduced into the Ardrossan to Arran route on June 1.
“Observe twice daily!—by the most expeditious route, commences on 1st June.—Glasgow to Arran, via Ardrossan.—The splendid new steamer Heather Bell or Lady Mary will sail (casualties excepted) on arrival of express trains from Dunlop Street at 8.15 a.m. and 4.15 p.m., reaching Ardrossan at 9.17 a.m. and 5.14 p.m. Returning from Arran in time for the 8.40 a.m. and 5.10 p.m. express trains reaching Glasgow at 9:45 a.m. and 6:17 p.m. Steamer calls at Kings Cross and Whiting Bay on forenoon run, Saturdays excepted; also on Friday and Saturday evenings and Monday mornings. N.B.—return tickets issued at cheap rates.”—North British Daily Mail, June 1, 1871
Almost immediately, the new steamer with her powerful engine, experienced mechanical difficulties. She was replaced by The Lady Mary, on charter from her new owners who planned to sail her on the Arran route from Glasgow by way of Largs and Millport.
“Steamer Heather Bell.—This new Arran and Ardrossan steamer left the river yesterday to resume her station, an accident to her machinery having recently compelled her withdrawal for repairs. The Lady Mary has returned to Port-Glasgow.”—Glasgow Herald, July 13, 1871.
In the season, the Heather Bell offered excursions on Wednesday afternoons. “Round Ailsa Craig” and “Round the Island of Arran” were the most popular. On such occasions, the steamer connected with the 7.05 p.m. train, rather than the 5.10 p.m. for Glasgow.
In stormy weather at the height of the season in July, Heather Bell was involved in a dramatic rescue of a small boat.
“Boat accident off Lamlash.—Four Glasgow gentlemen rescued by the Heather Bell.” The residenters at Lamlash were thrown into a state of great excitement on Saturday evening last, by what very nearly resulted in a fatal accident. During the day, the storm which was prevalent all over the West Coast raged with great fury off the south-east of Arran, and none of the owners of the small craft which ply for hire at Lamlash would venture out of the bay. In the afternoon, however, the wind had moderated somewhat, and four Glasgow gentlemen induced James Leitch to take them to Corrie in his little open boat. In the course of the evening, they were caught in a squall, the jib torn to tatters, and the otherwise disabled; and when last seen she was drifting out to sea in a helpless condition. When the Heather Bell arrived, late in the evening, a consultation was held, and Mr. Bannatyne, assistant factor to the Duke of Hamilton, went on board and induced Captain Brown to go off in search of the disabled boat. Much anxiety was naturally felt as to the result, and, notwithstanding the stormy night and the lateness of the hour, the quay at Lamlash was crowded as the Heather Bell steamed into the bay with the crew safe on board and the disabled boat in tow. Captain Brown states when he made up to the boat the men were in a helpless condition, and he had great difficulty in getting them on board. Too much praise cannot be bestowed on the Captain and crew of the steamer for their humane conduct, particularly as they had that day made three trips to Ardrossan and back, and were themselves much exhausted by the storm.”—Paisley Gazette, July 22, 1871
“On October 2nd, the sailings were reduced to a single run daily, leaving Ardrossan in connection with the 7 a.m. train from Bridge Street, Glasgow, and returning from Arran to catch the 5.15 train from Ardrossan. On the 9th of the month the service to Arran was reduced to Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday in connection with the 10.30 a.m. train from Glasgow, returning from Arran on Mondays at 8.45 a.m. from Lamlash, 9.15 a.m. from Brodick to catch the 11.15 a.m. train from Ardrossan; and on Wednesdays and Fridays, leaving Lamlash at 11.45 a.m., Brodick at 12.15 p.m., to catch the 2.15 p.m. train for Glasgow at Ardrossan.
By the end of 1871, the Duke had decided that a pier at Brodick was necessary to improve the Ardrossan to Arran service.
“The New Pier.—The handsome new pier at Invercloy in two months hence will be in such a state of completion as to enable steamers to touch at it at all times of the tide. It is a very substantial structure of iron, and will prove a benefit alike to visitors and islanders. Already numbers have visited the island in search of houses for the summer months, and notwithstanding the wetness of the weather, the better class of houses in Brodick are already mostly let.”—Glasgow Herald, March 14, 1872
At the end of the first week of May, and anticipating the opening of the new pier, Heather Bell went back to her builders for a major overhaul of her machinery. She was replaced by The Lady Mary on charter. Extensive work was carried out on the Heather Bell and she reappeared in June, much improved.
The new service was advertised—Glasgow to Arran in about two hours—in connection with express trains and the newly improved steamer, to begin on June 1.
“Glasgow to Arran, via Ardrossan, twice daily in about two hours.—On and after 1st June, the new steamer Heather Bell will sail (casualties excepted) in connection with express trains from and to Dunlop Street Station, Glasgow, as under:—From Glasgow: Leave Glasgow 8.15 a.m., arrive at Brodick about 10.15 a.m., Lamlash about 10.45 a.m.; Leave Glasgow 4.15 p.m., arrive at Brodick about 6.15 p.m., Lamlash 6.45. From Arran: Leave Lamlash *6.40 a.m., leave Brodick *7.10 a.m., arrive Glasgow about 9.45 a.m.; Leave Lamlash 3.0 p.m., leave Brodick 3.30 p.m., arrive Glasgow about 6.25 p.m. *Will leave fifteen minutes earlier on Monday mornings. Steamer calls at Kingscross and Whiting Bay forenoon run (Wednesdays excepted) also on Friday and Saturday evenings and on Monday mornings.
“Note.—For the convenience of families going to Arran, the steamer will make an extra run, with luggage, from Ardrossan to Whiting Bay, Kingscross, and Lamlash, on Saturday, 1st June. Passengers leaving Glasgow by the 10.35 a.m. train from Bridge Street Station will be in time for the steamer. Families having luggage should take advantage of this run by having their luggage sent to Goods Station (Eglinton Street) the day previous, so as to reach Ardrossan in time for the steamer. Heavy luggage will not be taken by the 10.35 or 4.15 trains. The steamer will not call at Whiting Bay on forenoon run of this date, but will leave there about 2 p.m.”—North British Daily Mail, May 27, 1872
The newspaper report of her trials after the overhaul included a boast about her speed that elicited some comments from the public in the letters to the editor.
“Arran steamer Heather Bell.—This fine steamer, which has for sometime past been receiving an overhaul by her builders, Messrs Blackwood & Gordon, Port-Glasgow, proceeded on a preliminary trip yesterday, previous to resuming her station between Ardrossan and Arran. The vessel’s machinery has undergone considerable alteration and improvement since last year. Yesterday the ‘Lights” were run with and against the tide, when an average speed of upwards of 19 miles an hour was obtained. This result was considered very gratifying. The Heather Bell is still under the command of Captain Brown.”—Glasgow Herald, June 14, 1872
“To Arran via Ardrossan.—To the Editor of the North British Daily Mail.—Sir,—In the Mail of to-day I observe a paragraph stating that the Heather Bell in a recent trial had steamed at the rate of 19 miles per hour. In this case is it too much for the regular coast passengers to Arran via Ardrossan to expect that the entire trip from Lamlash to Glasgow will in future be done in two hours, and not as at present in three hours and a quarter?—I am, &c., Speed. June 14.”— North British Daily Mail, June 17, 1872
The schedule settled down to a creditable two hour run. The Return fares were: first class and cabin 5s. 6d.; second class and cabin 4s. The single fare by third class and steerage, available on the morning boat down and the afternoon boat up was 2s. 6d.
“Glasgow to Arran, via Ardrossan, twice daily in about two hours.—The new steamer Heather Bell will sail (casualties excepted) in connection with express trains from and to Dunlop Street Station, Glasgow, as under:—From Glasgow: Leave Glasgow 8.15 a.m., arrive at Brodick about 10.15 a.m., Lamlash about 10.45 a.m.; Leave Glasgow 4.15 p.m., arrive at Brodick about 6.15 p.m., Lamlash 6.45. From Arran: Leave Lamlash *6.40 a.m., leave Brodick *7.10 a.m., arrive at Glasgow about 9.45 a.m.; Leave Lamlash 3.0 p.m., leave Brodick 3.30 p.m., arrive at Glasgow about 6.25 p.m. *Will leave fifteen minutes earlier on Monday mornings. Steamer calls at Kings Cross and Whiting Bay forenoon run (Wednesdays excepted); also, on Friday and Saturday evenings and on Monday mornings.”—Glasgow Herald, June 14, 1872
The new pier opened officially on June 17, 1872.
“Opening of the new pier at Brodick.—On Monday morning the elegant iron pier, erected by the Duke of Hamilton to facilitate the landing of passengers and goods at Brodick, was opened under auspices of a drenching shower of rain, which certainly had the effect of proving its utility and convenience as compared with the old ferry-boat system. There was some slight approach to a ceremony in honour of the occasion. As the steamer Heather Bell drew near the pier one cannon, which was placed on the cliffs bordering the shore, fired a fue-de-joie, and as the steamer departed a hearty, though rather drooping cheer was sent after her. An attempt was made on board the Heather Bell to fire a small brass cannon in acknowledgement, and notwithstanding the repeated application of the red-hot poker to the touchhole, and the careful surveillance of a gallant 1st volunteer, the attempt was unsuccessful, owing probably to the gunner not having acted up to the well-known maxim, and “kept his powder dry.” The passage across from Brodick to Ardrossan is now made by the Heather Bell in 50 minutes, and as she leaves on Monday morning about 6.55, the 8.15 express for Glasgow is caught in ample time.—Citizen”—Buteman, June 27, 1872
Heather Bell at the new pier (Beckett)
The description of the pier is interesting.
“The new pier at Brodick.—On Monday the 17th inst., the new pier, which has been for some time past in course of construction for his Grace the Duke of Hamilton and Brandon, &c., was opened for traffic at this beautiful and much-frequented watering-place. The pier, which is an iron structure of very elegant design, occupies a site a little to the south of the old, rough stone jetty, which up to the present time has done duty as a landing- place for passengers by ferry from the various in steamers on the Arran route. The present structure, which has been designed by Mr Mortimer Evans, C.E., F.G.S., of this city, and the erection of which has been carried out under his superintendence, extends into the sea for a distance of about 170 feet, and gives a depth of as water at low tide of about 12 feet. The gangway, which is 15 feet in width, is supported for a distance of about 140 feet on a series of elegant iron arches, terminating in a T-shaped pierhead, 90feet long and about 25 feet wide. The piles of the whole structure are of malleable iron, some of which are let into the solid rock, and are wedged up from below, whilst the remainder are sunk for some considerable distance into the sand and gravel. These latter have large cast iron discs or shoes affixed to the lower end, and have been made to penetrate the sea bottom by a curious adaptation of hydraulic power. The whole is stayed throughout by malleable iron struts of a of peculiar form, and cross-braced with tie bars in all directions. The footway is protected by a light malleable iron girder, giving additional lal F strength, and the railing at the pierhead consists of neat and comfortable lounge seats, running the whole length on each side. Besides these seats upon the pier itself, we understand that a commodious waiting room, of which the designs are in course of preparation, is shortly to be built in a convenient position on shore. This at will be a source of great comfort to visitors overtaken by the sudden rain and squalls which so frequently happen on the island, and will supply a want long felt by visitors.
“There are one or two peculiarities in the construction of this pile that may be worth mentioning. One is, the very extensive use of malleable iron in a structure so much exposed to the action of sea water. Another is the saving of expense that has been effected by using for the piles old railway material—the piles themselves being actually constructed of disused rails, over which locomotives and trains have passed for years. The rails, placed back to back, are bolted together, and the piles thus formed.
“The chief novelty, however, to which our attention has been drawn is the use made of thick boiler plate in lieu of wood, which is the ordinary material in the formation of the fender piles; and as it is here that the chief wear and tear of a pier occurs, we shall be glad to learn that this apparently bold innovation in pier construction has been the result of sound consideration and scientific principle. There are many who have hitherto held the opinion that nothing but a soft, yielding material can with success be applied to fend off such blows as are at times given by steamers in rough weather, and that the use of so hard a material as iron is utterly impracticable. In the present instance, however, this opinion appears to be negatived, for the whole structure being designedly elastic, the fenders yield easily to pressure, and as easily recover when the pressure is removed. The whole action, indeed, appears very similar to that of an ordinary metal railway buffer. If eventually successful, a great saving of wear and tear must result.
“Corrosive action has, we understand, been overcome by an electrical arrangement, causing the whole submerged ironwork to assume an electro-negative condition; and in this case it will be interesting to ascertain if increased protection may not be caused by the deposit on the ironwork of the various salts of the sea water as a result of electrolytic action. The whole works have been constructed by Messrs John Stewart & Son, of Irvine, the contractors, who have carried out the designs of the engineer in a most satisfactory manner. The pier has been tastefully painted and decorated, and the people of Brodick and the island generally may be congratulated on the completion of a work which, while being an ornament to the shore, is calculated to be of so much use to all frequenting the island.”—Glasgow Herald, June 27, 1872
The ironwork of the pier
The new pier, combined with the express trains and improved Heather Bell, did indeed allow a service between Glasgow and Arran in two hours, and produced some correspondence in the Glasgow newspapers at the beginning of July. Inevitable, on one correspondent declaring the Heather Bell to be the “fastest steamer of the Firth,” there was a response from another in support of the Glasgow and Ayr steamer, Bonnie Doon, that had sailed between Ardrossan and Arran for Brodick Fair.
Heather Bell at Brodick (Valentine)
“Glasgow to Arran at last in two hours.—To the Editor of the North British Daily Mail.—Sir,—Many complaints have been made against the railway and steamboat companies for delays and detentions, slow trains and slower steamers, and bad arrangements at Ardrossan for transferring the traffic to the steamer. Last week, and I believe several times since, from leaving the Union Railway Station, Glasgow, till landing at Brodick, no more than two hours elapsed. This feat, which could be continued daily, was accomplished by economising time at every point, and by aid of the fastest steamer of the Firth, the Heather Bell, which does the journey easily in 47 minutes.—I am &c., An Arran Visitor.”— North British Daily Mail, July 1, 1872
“Glasgow to Arran at last in two hours.—To the editor of the North British Daily Mail.—Sir,—Under the above heading your correspondent “An Arran Visitor” in yesterday’s Mail tries to puff the passenger traffic arrangements between Glasgow and Arran via Ardrossan, and in doing so he incidentally, it may be, but certainly inaccurately, asserts that the Heather Bell is the fastest steamer on the Frith. I do not think that one so deeply interested in the Heather Bell can be ignorant or have forgotten that on Tuesday week the steamer Bonnie Doon made the passage from Ardrossan to Arran in a few minutes less time than the Heather Bell, and on the return passage greatly increased the difference of time between them. There are now however so many “fastest steamers” on the Clyde that I daresay the public would not be surprised with the statement of your “Arran Visitor.”—I am &c., Diogenes. July 2.”—Daily Mail, July 3, 1872
“Glasgow to Arran at last in two hours.—To the editor of the North British Daily Mail.—Sir,—In to-day’s Mail Diogenes attempted to puff (to quote his own expressive phrase) the sailing qualities, of the Bonnie Doon at the expense of the Heather Bell, but does not condescend to give the actual difference between the steamers in crossing from Ardrossan to Brodick and vice versa, simply styling it “a few minutes.” The watch of Diogenes should make the acquaintance of the watchmaker as speedily a possible, as my chronometer, and those of one or two others, made the difference on the occasion in question all the other way. As a good deal of speculation was exhibited in inference to the run across on the day of Brodick fair, I expected that the Bonnie Doon would have delayed her departure for a few minutes, so as to start with the Heather Bell; but being disappointed in this, I adopted the next best test, that-of running to time. I crossed with the Heather Bell to Brodick, and timed her very particularly, returning with the Bonnie Doon, and doing the same with her. As the result of this test, I found that the Heather Bell crossed to Arran in 4 minutes 30 seconds less time than the Bonnie Doon took on the return journey. Besides, it should be remembered that the Heather Bell carried about double the number of passengers possessed by the Bonnie Doon, which gave the latter steamer a double advantage over her opponent. Despite this drawback, however, the fact remains that the Heather Bell accomplished the distance in less time than the Bonnie Doon. I am not prejudiced to either steamer, and wish them both success; but I deem it only simple justice to put the facts in their proper light.— I am, &., Brodick Fair, July 4.”—Daily Mail, July 5, 1872
Heather Bell leaving Brodick Pier (Beckett)
Heather Bell had a successful season, and continued with the same schedule in 1873. In September, she was holed when on her regular service, and narrowly avoided a disaster.
“Arran steamer springing a leak.—Dangerous position of passengers and crew.—On Saturday evening as the Arran steamer Heather Bell, was making her passage between Ardrossan and Arran she sprang a leak, and, on reaching the pier at Brodick, it was found that she had made so much water that she was unable to proceed further. The passengers for Lamlash and Whiting Bay were under the necessity of landing, and had to make the best of their way to their destinations on foot. No alarm was felt on board the steamer during the voyage, as the knowledge of the accident was prudently kept from the passengers by Captain Brown. There was a stiff breeze blowing but the sea was not heavy, and it is difficult to account for such an accident occurring.
“The locality of the leak was only ascertained after many hours incessant arduous labour in pumping and baling. One of the iron plates of the hull on the port side, and about three inches below the level of the floor of the steward’s cabin, was perforated by a hole almost large enough to admit a man’s fist, while a second was bulged inwards, having evidently been forcibly struck. How such an accident can have occurred is a matter of much speculation. The steamer lay in Ardrossan Harbour on Thursday night, but the injury to the plates can hardly have been effected then, as on Friday the Heather Bell made two trips, and on Saturday morning a third, between Ardrossan and Arran, and no leakage whatever was observed. Most probably the steamer had been struck by some floating wreckage, The leak was first observed about twenty minutes before reaching Brodick, and the ship filled so rapidly that Captain Brown had a most anxious time of it, fearing at one juncture that it would hardly be possible to reach the pier. Another fifteen or twenty minutes and the fires would have been put out. Fortunately the passengers on board knew nothing of the disaster until the steamer had been safely moored alongside the pier. Had it been otherwise, the anxiety and alarm must have been great, as there would not be fewer probably than 200 people on board, and the small boats would certainly not have taken with safety more than quarter of the number. As it was, the inconvenience imposed upon the passengers for Lamlash and Whiting Bay was considerable, the great majority of them being compelled to walk, laden as they were with luggage and parcels.
“Nothing further has transpired to show in what manner the steamer Heather Bell received the injury to her plate which occasioned the leakage. After lying at Brodick Pier until Sunday morning the steamer proceeded lo Glasgow, where the damage she had sustained was repaired, and she again began to ply between Ardrossan and Arian on Tuesday morning. No interruption of communications look place in consequence of the accident, as the steamer Rothesay Castle was chartered for the station, and made the usual run from Arran to Ardrossan on Monday Morning,”—Buteman, September 27, 1873
Heather Bell’s modest success was at the expense of a heavy consumption of fuel. Her machinery was too powerful for her hull, and, for a steamer on an important tourist route, her passenger accommodation was limited. Added expenses to charter vessels when Heather Bell required repairs or overhaul revealed the difficulties on ownership of a single vessel “fleet,” and the Duke of Hamilton decided to transfer the route to Captain Buchanan.
“The Ardrossan route to Arran.—We understand that the steamer Heather Bell, belonging to His Grace the Duke of Hamilton, is soon to be withdrawn from the Ardrossan and Arran route, and that arrangements have been completed with Captain Wm. Buchanan for having his fine steamer Rothesay Castle placed permanently on the station. The Rothesay Castle will commence to ply about the middle of January.”—Glasgow Herald, December 19, 1873
At the beginning of January, Heather Bell continued sailing to Arran on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, returning to Ardrossan on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, until the middle of the month. In advertisements of January 15th, Captain Buchanan’s Rothesay Castle was advertised in her place and Heather Bell was laid up.
Buchanan’s Rothesay Castle of 1865 (Alasdair Macfarlane)
Messrs Shearer’s Glen Rosa of 1877 competed with Guinevere on the Arran by way of Rothesay route from Glasgow (Valentine)
Rothesay Castle was replaced in 1878, when Captain Buchanan had Brodick Castle built by Messrs H. M‘Intyre & Co., Paisley. She was built specifically for the Arran route, year-round, with a raised fo’csle, and a short deck saloon. Her engines were the original machinery of the Eagle of 1864, that were better suited to the heavier hull of the new steamer.
Brodick Castle at Brodick Pier (Washington Wilson)
Brodick Castle leaving the pier (Washington Wilson)
In turn, Brodick Castle was replaced by Scotia in 1887. Scotia was also built by Messrs H. M‘Intyre & Co., Paisley, in 1880 and had better saloon accommodation. After sailing from Glasgow to Rothesay, she was moved to the Glasgow to Arran station in 1885 when Messrs Buchanan took over the fleet of Messrs Keith and Campbell. For her new duties sailing year-round on the Ardrossan to Arran sailing, she was equipped with a raised fo’csle like her predecessor.
Scotia at the Pier for Brodick Fair (Washington Wilson)
Scotia leaving Brodick Pier
The Piermaster, Robert Hamilton, and his staff—James Crawford, William Inglis, and Neil Crawford, in the late 1880s
In 1890, the Caledonian Railway reached Ardrossan at Montgomerie Pier, and was able to compete with the Glasgow & South-Western who had absorbed the old Ardrossan Railway. The Caledonian Steam Packet Co., Ltd. introduced the Duchess of Hamilton to compete with the Scotia. The Duchess, named after Arran’s first Lady, was faster and had much superior passenger accommodation and generally took much of the business from the older steamer. Competition was keen, and inevitably, a collision occurred between the steamers as the Duchess, having left Brodick about five minutes after Scotia, caught up with her near Ardrossan. The collision resulted in damages of £32 2s. awarded to Messrs Buchanan.
Duchess of Hamilton leaving Brodick around 1890 (Washington Wilson)
A major drawback in securing more widespread public support was the practice of laying-up the Duchess in the winter, and the old reliable, Scotia provided the 1890-1891 winter service. This was remedied in 1891 when the Marchioness of Lorne, a smaller version of the Duchess, was built specifically for the Arran winter service.
In 1891, the Glasgow & South-Western Railway obtained powers to own steamships and purchased Scotia. The following year, the fast and splendiferous Glen Sannox was placed on the summer service to Arran, regaining much of the traffic that had been lost. In 1893, Scotia was sold when Glen Rosa was built for the winter service.
Glen Sannox leaving Brodick
South-Western steamer Glen Sannox approaching Brodick Pier (Castle)
Glen Rosa of 1893 in Brodick Bay
There were also changes in the sailings to Arran by way of Rothesay that had been dominated by the teetotal steamer Ivanhoe. In 1895, the Caledonian Company had the Duchess of Rothesay built and placed her on the sailing from Gourock to Rothesay, Kyes of Bute and Arran. A year later, the Jupiter was introduced to compete with her by the Glasgow & South-Western.
South-western Jupiter at the pier
A ditty from the early 1900s
In February, 1898, a bizarre accident occurred when a hopper barge collided with Brodick Pier. The net result was that the pier gangway was buckled.
“Damage to Brodick pier.—Yesterday afternoon the hopper barge No. 15, built by Simons & Co., of Renfrew, and owned by the Mersey Dock Board, collided with Brodick Pier while landing passengers. She crushed into the centre of the pier gangway, causing considerable damage. The barge seemed in no way injured, and proceeded on her voyage after landing her passengers.”—Scotsman, February 11, 1898.
Details of the accident are not readily available, but perhaps the ability of the pier, suspended in the muddy sea-bottom, to accommodate a major blow from the hopper barge, allowed the whole structure to move, except where it was anchored into the rock in the centre of the gangway. It seems unlikely that this part of the pier was struck directly. Repairs took some time and the cast-iron structure was replace with a more conventional wooden construction.
Duchess of Rothesay approaching Brodick Pier in 1898, showing the damage to the approach gangway (Valentine)
“Brodick pier was damaged some months ago by an erratic dredger of the hopper brand, and is only now being put shipshape.”—Greenock Telegraph, June 21, 1898
The 12th Duke, William Douglas-Hamilton, died in 1895, and with no male heir, succession passed to his daughter, Lady Mary. She married the Marquis of Graham, son of the Duke of Montrose, in 1906, and the lands in Arran passed to the Montrose family.
Postcard celebrating the marriage of Lady Mary who became Marchioness of Graham
Various post-cards were issued to celebrate the happy event, and when the couple returned to Arran on the Atalanta towards the end of June,1906, the crowds lined the streets from the pier to the castle to greet the Marquis and his bride, the Marchioness of Graham. The Marquis succeeded to the dukedom in 1925.
Brodick jetty and pier around 1910
The Ardrossan to Arran service entered the turbine era in 1906 when both railway companies had turbine steamers built. The Caledonian vessel, Duchess of Argyll, was built to compete against the Glen Sannox, and could certainly match her in speed. The South-western product was the more modest Atalanta, that became the winter boat. By 1910, to avoid such wasteful competition, a sharing arrangement was put in place where the two railway companies alternated annually in supplying the main vessel for the service.
Turbine Duchess of Argyll at Brodick before the first world war
Invercloy on the 1920s
Invercloy
Brodick Beach in 1935 (Valentine)
I think this is Douglas Row, Brodick, in the 1920s, but would be happy to be corrected. I recall a visit there with my aunt in June 1970. The woman we were visiting was a Mrs Allen who had been head housekeeper at Brodick Castle. My aunt worked in the Castle and accompanied the Duchess on some of her travels during the second world war
It is important to remember that the Isle of Arran has a rich agricultural base. This farm, close to Brodick, became the Isle of Arran Heritage Museum
Stacking hay at Brodick Castle. My grandfather is pictured here building the stack
Another picture featuring my grandfather, this time ploughing in Glen Rosa
Autumn ploughing Strathwhillan
The Herring Fleet at Brodick Pier (Tattersall)
Glen Sannox was the mainstay of the Ardrossan to Arran service during world war I, after which the two railway companies were amalgamated under L.M.S. Railway ownership. The old paddle steamer was scrapped after the 1924 season and a new turbine steamer of the same name took her place. Aided by Atalanta for the winter service, and then by the turbine Marchioness of Graham and the new Caledonia in the 1930s, there was a period of some stability.
The turbine, Glen Sannox) at Brodick in the 1930s (Judges)
Marchioness of Graham at Brodick
Brodick pier was closed to passenger traffic during world war II with Lamlash as the main Arran Pier. At the close of hostilities in 1946, Brodick pier was refurbished.
Turbine Glen Sannox of 1925 at Bodick in 1950. The building in the foreground is the power plant that was replaced when the island was connected to the National Grid in 1965
Marchioness of Graham was the main steamer into the 1950s but increasing needs for carrying vehicular traffic spelled the end for the traditional Clyde fleet. Brodick was chosen as the principal terminal and the pier was strengthened for the introduction of a third Glen Sannox, a year-round motor ship with car carrying lifts into her “garage,” in 1957. Caledonia helped with passenger traffic in the busy summer season.
Car Ferry Glen Sannox in 1961
As vehicle demand increased, “roll-on, roll-off” was the next step in modernization with the construction of a link-span and causeway off the side of the pier. The Stenna Baltica was purchased in 1970. Renamed Caledonia for the new service, she satisfied the needs of the Island for a short time until a succession of ever-larger capacity vessels were introduced, including a new Isle of Arran.
Caledonia approaching Brodick on June 4, 1970
The old-style pier was abandoned in 2018 with the construction of a new breakwater and link-span to accommodate the larger vessels, Caledonian Isles, and the new Glen Sannox.
“Clyde Piers,” Joy Monteith and Ian McCrorie, Inverclyde District Libraries, Greenock, 1982
“History of the Villages of the Isle of Arran.” Joan Basford (Convener), S.W.R.I., Arran, 1983.
“The Book of Arran,” W. M. Mackenzie, The Arran Society of Glasgow, Glasgow, 1914
“History of the County of Bute,” John Eaton Reid, Thomas Murray & Sons, Glasgow, 1864
“Days at the Coast,” Hugh Macdonald, Andrew Duthie, Glasgow, 1865
“About Clyde Steamers and Clyde Skippers,” “Senex Afloat,” Gillespie Bros., Ltd., Glasgow, 1886
“Brodick Old and New,” James C. Inglis, Arthur Guthrie & Sons, Ltd., Ardrossan, c. 1930
“Picturesque Arran,” W. M. M., W. H. & Co., Ltd. Glasgow, c. 1925
“Buchanan’s Tour Round Arran by Brodick Castle,” Robert Anderson, Glasgow, c. 1880
“The Isle of Arran,” Robert McLellan, David & Charles, Newton Abbot, 1970