One of the most viewed articles on this site is “Colour on the Clyde” where a collection of coloured postcards of the steamers in Edwardian times are presented in more or less chronological order. A similar treatment might be possible for the steamers of the West Highlands and Islands. However, the material is much more scarce, and the general quality of the postcards is not as good as that for the Clyde, with less focus on steamers, and rather more on their surroundings. Some of the best material is published in Ian M‘Crorie’s book, “Steamers of the Highlands and Islands”, published by Orr, Pollock, & Co., Ltd., Greenock in 1987. This article will duplicate some of the material from that book but sourced exclusively from my own collection. No attempt will be made to produce a chronological order, and the best way to present the material focuses on the different routes on which the steamers were employed. Almost all the steamers on the western seaboard had red funnels, and unfortunately, the quality of the colour separation and in many cases, the red pigment, varies greatly. Perhaps understandably, the grandeur of the scenery was more important than the steamer. In a few instances, I have augmented a poorly coloured original with one that has a little colour accented to the funnel.
The Royal Route
The Royal Route was the main tourist route to the West Highlands and Islands, and began at the Broomielaw in Glasgow with the Columba. Although she did not sail outside the Clyde and the associated sea lochs, Columba, and her older partner, Iona, were the main conduits during the season. Down the Clyde to Rothesay and through the Kyles of Bute to Tarbert where there was an exodus of passengers for Islay.
Columba at Tarbert pier (Valentine)
After crossing the short isthmus between the East Loch and the West Loch on foot or in the vehicles provide, passengers for Islay embarked on their sea crossing to the island. From around 1890 until 1905, the main vessel on the Islay sailing was the Glencoe, built as Mary Jane in 1846, and acquired by Messrs Hutcheson the predecessors of Messrs MacBrayne in 1857.
A colourized colotype print of Glencoe at West Loch Tarbert pier.
In 1905, Pioneer replaced Glencoe on the route. The paddle steamer, essential for the shallow waters of the West Loch, was built by Messrs A. & J. Inglis, and, with her promenade deck carried forward to the bow, she proved popular.
Pioneer at West Loch Tarbert
At Port-Ellen pier at the Glasgow Fair around 1905
Port Askaig was the other calling place on Islay. Here Pioneer is joined by the puffer Beaver
On the Port Askaig service, the Pioneer also called at Gigha
Pioneer off Islay
In 1910, a new steamer, Mountaineer, was built for the West Highland service of Messrs MacBrayne by the same builders as Pioneer. She was similar but her main deck was open forward. She is seen here deputizing for Pioneer at West Loch Tarbert.
Mountaineer at West Loch Tarbert
The distilleries of Islay also had direct communications with Glasgow with a cargo service provided by Messrs MacBrayne by way of the Mull of Kintyre. Here the Locheil is calling at Bruichladich. The Locheil was built as Devonia in 1906, and acquired by Messrs MacBrayne in 1920.
Locheil at Bruichladich around 1930
Back on Loch Fyne, Ardrishaig was the terminal destination for Columba and it was here that passengers disembarked for the journey along the Crinan Canal by the Linnet. Linnet was launched by Messrs J. & G. Thomson in 1866.
Columba at Ardrishaig with a steamer of Messrs Buchanan in the background
An early view of Linnet at Ardrishaig
Linnet passing Lochgilphead after 1894 when her wheel was moved to a raised platform
On reaching Crinan, passengers transferred to the swift steamer Chevalier for the trip to Oban. The fine two-funnelled saloon steamer Chevalier was also built by Messrs J. & G. Thomson at Govan in 1866.
Chevalier at Crinan
On the way to Oban from Crinan, there were calls at Blackmill Bay and Easdale.
Blackmill Bay with the cargo steamer Handa
Handa began life as Aros Castle, built by Messrs Blackwood & Gordon of Port Glasgow for service to the Isle of Mull in association with Messrs Orme’s service. She was acquired by Messrs MacBrayne in 1887. At just over 84 feet in length and 20 feet in breadth, she could pass through the locks in the Crinan Canal.
It came as rather a shock that my collection has no appropriate postcards of Oban that show good views of steamships. As a remedy, I have included a colourized lantern slide dating from just before the first world war. There are a number of MacBrayne steamers represented. In the foreground the Lapwing of 1903, or one of her sisters built the following year, and the Fingal of 1877.
Oban Bay
At the North Pier, Fusilier of 1888 is at the pier end. The two-funneled Chevalier is ahead with the Mountaineer of 1910 outside her, coaling from a puffer moored alongside. Grenadier is at the Railway Pier.
Grenadier, built by Messrs J. & G. Thomson in 1885, was closely associated with the Sacred Isles Tour, sailing round Mull and calling at Salen, Tobermory, Staffa, and Iona. She was destroyed by fire at Oban in 1927 under tragic circumstances.
Grenadier off Staffa with passengers landing by boat
Grenadier at Iona
Before the advent of the Mountaineer of 1910, Messrs MacBrayne had two other steamers of the same name. The second Mountaineer was brought in second-hand as the Hero, built by Messrs T. Wingate in 1858. She was fitted with a clipper bow and sailed on Loch Linnhe and Loch Leven routes.
Mountaineer on Loch Leven
Mountaineer silhouetted in the gloaming as she approaches Fort William
Fusilier, built at Paisley by Messrs M‘Arthur & Co., in 1888, was generally better known on the Fort William sailing up Loch Linnhe, calling at Port Appin, Kentallen, Ballachulish, and Onich.
Fusilier at Ballachulish pier
Fusilier approaching Fort William
Corpach was the ultimate destination for the Fort William service. At Corpach pier, passengers transferred to the steamers on the Caledonian Canal for the journey to Inverness.
Fusilier at Corpach.
The first Mountaineer built by Messrs J. & G. Thomson in 1852 at Corpach. She was lost after she ran aground on Lady Rock south of Lismore in 1889
The Caledonian Canal rises from the sea level at Corpach in a series of locks called Neptune’s staircase. Passengers bypass these locks in a coach or on foot to join the steamer at Banavie, but the cargo steamers serving the Great Glen pass through them. MacBrayne’s cargo steamer, Cavalier, was built by Aitken & Mansel in 1883.
MacBrayne’s Cavalier descending Neptune’s staircase
Over the years, Messrs MacBrayne used four steamers on the Great Glen service; Glengarry, built in 1846 as Edinburgh Castle, moved by Messrs Thomson & M‘Connell to the Caledonian Canal in 1848 and acquired by Messrs Hutcheson in 1851; Gondolier built by Messrs J. & G. Thomson in 1866; Lochness built as Lochgoil in 1853 and brought in by Messrs MacBrayne in 1885; and Gairlochy, built as Sultan in 1861, and brought to the Caledonian Canal in in 1894.
Gondolier leaving Banavie
Gondolier in the locks at Fort Augustus, descending to Loch Ness
Cavalier at Fort Augustus
Glengarry at Fort Augustus Pier
Gairlochy at Fort Augustus
Gairlochy near Fort Augustus
Gairlochy at Invermoriston Pier
Glengarry at Foyers Pier
Lochness at Foyers Pier
Gondolier at Muirtown Wharf near Inverness
As an alternative to the swift steamers, Messrs MacBrayne and others such as Messrs M‘Callum & Orme sailed round the Mull of Kintyre with passengers and goods for the West Highlands and Islands. The venerable Clansman dated from 1870, and was built to serve Stornoway and the intermediate ports from Glasgow. She was joined by Claymore in 1879, shortly after Messrs MacBrayne took over from Messrs Hutchinson. The served both the outer isles and the western highlands for thirty years. In 1907, a new and larger steamer, Chieftain, replaced the Clansman.
Clansman and Claymore at Tobermory. Clansman had her bridge aft of the funnel.
Clansman at Stornoway
Clansman at Stornoway. Whoever coloured this photograph used a bit of artistic license to prolong its use, suggesting canvas bridge dodgers in front of the funnel, a characteristic of Claymore.
Clansman at Stornoway with the painted in canvas dodgers removed in keeping with the original photograph on which the coloured postcard is based.
The railway to Oban opened in 1880, and connections made at the port are the corner-stone of the MacBrayne network.
Claymore at Oban
Chieftain at Oban
The other railway connections to the west coast are at Mallaig, that opened in 1901 and provided connections to the small isles and Skye, and Kyle of Lochalsh, opened in 1897, and providing sailings to Skye, the outer isles, and the northern highlands. Railway connections to Skye and the outer isles had been available from Strome Ferry from 1870, but it was the extension of the railway to Kyle of Lochalsh that promoted the growth of the steamboat service.
Claymore at Mallaig
Kyle of Lochalsh with Sheila. The neat little Sheila was built by Messrs A. & J. Inglis in 1904 for the outer-isles mail service. She was lost on the first day of 1927 near Loch Torridon.
In addition to the mails to the outer isles, the Skye mail service was also based at Kyle of Lochalsh. After Pioneer displaced the Glencoe on the Islay service in 1905, the MacBrayne veteran was moved to the Skye mail service, calling at Kyleakin, Broadford, and Portree.
Glencoe leaving Kyle of Lochalsh
Glencoe at Kyleakin
Glencoe at Broadford
Glencoe at Portree
The Claymore on her way to Stornoway also called at Portree.
Claymore at Portree
Officers of Claymore
Claymore at Portree
Claymore at Portree
Claymore at Portree with Fusilier on the Skye mail service approaching.
Clansman’s replacement, Chieftain, at Portree on the Stornoway service
The old Campbeltown steamer, Gael, dated from 1867, and after passing through a number of hands, was acquired by Messrs MacBrayne in 1891 for their Oban to Gairloch service.
Gael at Portree when on the Oban to Gairloch sailing
Claymore at Gairloch